DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR 1983 240D

[rickmay]

I want to replace a couple more actuators, but have a question after installing the one in the rear driver-side.

The actuator I bought has a place for the rod to go into. There are two plastic wedges that are supposed to lock the rod in place, but I cannot squeeze the two wedges hard enough to get them fully back down into the holder. The holder is like a rectangular cup and the wedges are inserted on either side of the rod. This seems like a poor design or am I missing something?

I am afraid that if I squeeze any harder that the cup will fracture.

Thoughts?

[Guest987]

Are you able to key lock the car on either side?

[rickmay]

Hi Rebe,

are you next going to ask me; if I can get in the car, why be so particular?


I actually am unable to use the key on the passenger door. I want to replace many of the actuators because I think the leak(s) is causing some "run on." The rear driver door will lock if I hurry, but if there is one door that doesn't, it is the rear passenger door. I haven't checked if the fuel door is locking, but I know the trunk is likely bad.

I have checked the pump, and it is OK, but the car sat for four years, and with 3-4 years of my use, the actuators are the likely problem.

I suspect either the tumbler or the rod connecting the passenger lock to the latch is disconnected.

[charmalu]

Rick, there are two types of these Actuators as to how they grip the rod.
this picture shows the type that snaps over center. It is sometimes tough to get it to snap each way.

[charmalu]

Continue...

Couldn`t add anything below the picture...strange.

This second type, the center piece pulls up to release the rod. When the rod is inserted, the out side piece is pushed down to squeeze the two center halves tighty around the rod.







Charlie

[LNGfish]

Rick,

I just learned about these lock actuators last week, I think I can help. My car is a 1982 300SD.

Assuming your actuator is a OEM Mercedes actuator and not a VDO. OEM are all dark in color and the VDO's are blue.

What you need to do is hold the insert "with the Wedges" as you gently tap the part around it, the looks like a Knob, while the Knob is extended, UP; which is UNLOCKED.

The best way to TAP around the "INSERT w/Wedges" is to use a pair of pliars and use the HOLE part of the pliars to go around the screw, see below.

The best way to hold the insert is to get a long straight threaded screw that fits EASILY into the hole and push it sideways into the grooves of the insert, then TAP it with the pliars using the hole in pliars to go around the screw.

MAKE SURE ACTUAOTOR IS EXTENDED. Gently tap it.

The insert will slowly show itself and will come out about 5/8" and then you can put the rod in from the side.

Let me know if this helps.

[rickmay]

charmalu, your 10:34 PM REPLY shows the one that I used on my driver-side rear door. It is the all black actuator.

Right now I am thinking that this brand is a second rate product. Not only does it not readily fit around the rod, it is even somewhat difficult to pull the wedges out of the holder to get the rod in. LNGfish, that sounds like a good way to pull out the wedges. If you look closely at the image, the wedges are flush with the top of their holder. With my rod in, these wedges are now sticking about an 1/8" outside of the holder, and this seems less than desirable, as it may not be locked in place.

charmalu, have you used this all-black version successfully? Being less than satisfied with it, I may try the other version next time. What did you mean by, "It is sometimes tough to get it to snap each way."


charmalu, do you know if both styles of actuators that you show work for all four doors? And, do you know who makes the other one?

[rickmay]

btw, my new '80 300D was a dog.

And, just because I choose to let my 240D shift into second gear off the start doesn't mean that I will never get to use the parachute I installed on the rear bumper.