Brand New 1983 300SD White POS

[RNCarl]

Hi,

Just saying hello. I have been lurking for a year here and have toyed with the idea of an old Benz to experiment with WVO.

My neighbor had a '83 300SD with about 230K on the clock and was itching to get it out of his garage to make room for a '78 450 SL for his daily driver.

He knew I was looking for a cheap car to convert and he has been trying to sell it to me all winter. Well, this spring, he made me an offer I couldn't refuse.

She is as dirty as they come and she has all of the quirks that a 126 has to offer as I have been searching the forum here to find out where to start.


The car hadn't been run all winter and early April he pushed it outside just so he could get the 450SL inside. 2 weeks ago he asked if I wanted to buy it and mentioned a price that should make me blush. I told him if he got her running I might come over and take a "serious" look.

He jumped the battery and she started right up. NO smoke! even after idling after 30 minutes - no smoke. I even had him shut it off, let it set for almost an hour while I poked and prodded around and then restarted it. NO smoke!! I took it for a short drive, the tranny shifted well but the brakes act like the Booster is bad [according to what symptoms I found and searched out here]

The paint is white that has been repainted a couple years ago. a few bubbles on the wheel wells but all around the body appears pretty solid. The paint had typical greenish "I've been sitting under a tree and not been washed in over a year" look to it. - I found out the car was sitting almost two years. This last 9-10 months inside.

The brown interior is as crappy yet only a couple small rips. I do like the "coco brown" color better than the black doner interior he has. The wood trim is a disaster and there are a few switches missing covers. The sun roof does not work but I still need to explore why. He reports it does crank open. The A/C does not work and the compressor "rattles" when the car idles. He thinks it may be the clutch... we will see.

He reported the rear end rebuilt 2 years ago along with brakes, some front end work I don't recall exactly what and a short list of other mechanical things repaired. The kid is a mechanic and he works for a foreign repair shop that caters to the old - Benz - Audi - BMW - crowd. I think he "acquired" the car for a form of payment from a friend. I have seen the car at his place on and off for a few years.

So, she is now mine. I promise I will search the forum to find answers to newbie type questions.

C.

[jwhughes3]

Glad you got a deal (best way to jump in) and since your investment isn't too high maybe you'll be able to afford some resto money.

See ya around.

John

[RNCarl]

The car is in my hands and being "de-scummed".

As for things to make it "road-worthy"

Here is a short list: Please add to it

1. Oil and filter

2. Fuel filter and prefilter

[what about new fuel lines?]

3. P/S filter and fluid

4. Air filter

5. Transmission filter - fluid change

6. cooling system flush and upper and lower radiator hoses.

- Now, the fuel in the tank is over a year old... should I drain it and replace tank filter?

- Hard cold start, no glow plug light. PO unsure about "when" glow plugs replaced. I plan on replacing all 5 and the relay for good measure. Very little smoke now that I fully charged the battery to get a good cranking going.

- Brakes exhibit the same type of behavior as what has been identified here on this forum as a bad boost controller. A "used" one came with the car. It is reported as having been obtained from a "salvage yard". Can I trust it?
It does have some "bone-yard" markings on it. They also grind a little. Sounds like all the rust maybe on the rotors? - I guess I need to pull a (the) wheel(s) and have a look huh?

- What about the belts?

- A/C does not work and there is a "rattle" at idle that sounds like the A/C compressor clutch rattling... It sounds like an old Ford I once had.

- cruise does not work.

- Hood only latches on the first latch - both sides. I think the hood release is toast. The hood won't stay fully closed. Help on adjustments?

- Misc. switch issues, front seats sag - etc.

What other things should I look for in the safety/ reliability dept.

Thanks!

C.
P.S. The car was only $400 and I suspect I will have to put three times that in it to get it to respectable shape.
It's sole reason for being purchased is to play WVO experiment vehicle.
.

[Bill Ladd]

Originally Posted by RNCarl

- Hard cold start, no glow plug light. PO unsure about "when" glow plugs replaced. I plan on replacing all 5 and the relay for good measure.

I got a reamer from eBay and replaced all five with Bosch. I was replacing them one at a time before that and they weren't lasting. The reamer ground a good bit of carbon gunk out of a few of the holes and they've been working great ever since. Do a search here for tips on how to get replace them without having an aneurism!

Originally Posted by RNCarl

- What about the belts?

- A/C does not work and there is a "rattle" at idle that sounds like the A/C compressor clutch rattling... It sounds like an old Ford I once had.

Loose belts will give this exact noise. I thought I had a bearing going out on one of the ancilliary driven components. After tensioning the belts, the noise went away.

I'm having a blast with my old Mercedes. Hope you do too.

[toomany MBZ]

Originally Posted by RNCarl

The car is in my hands and being "de-scummed".



- Brakes exhibit the same type of behavior as what has been identified here on this forum as a bad boost controller. A "used" one came with the car. It is reported as having been obtained from a "salvage yard". Can I trust it?
It does have some "bone-yard" markings on it. They also grind a little. Sounds like all the rust maybe on the rotors? - I guess I need to pull a (the) wheel(s) and have a look huh? If you need a different booster, I pulled the one out of an '82 300D, worked, no leaks, comes with MC. Do pull calipers, see what you have.

- What about the belts? Replace.


- cruise does not work. Normal.

- Hood only latches on the first latch - both sides. I think the hood release is toast. The hood won't stay fully closed. Help on adjustments? Will have to look into.



It's sole reason for being purchased is to play WVO experiment vehicle. Good luck!
.

My 2 cents in bold.

[raslaje]

Originally Posted by RNCarl

The car is in my hands and being "de-scummed".

As for things to make it "road-worthy"

- Hard cold start, no glow plug light. PO unsure about "when" glow plugs replaced. I plan on replacing all 5 and the relay for good measure.

.

The glow plug light will not work if you have bad glow plugs. You might rather see DieselGiant's glow plug instructions on testing the relay before buying one.
http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

[diesel don]

Some Thots:

Brake Booster? Maybe, but I doubt it. More likely some frozen pistons in the calipers. Mine can set up when the car sits idle for a month, let alone a year.

Glo Plugs? Test them by pulling off the relay cap. Simple process and most likely, you only need 2 or 3

Unless you want to put needless cash into the car, get it safe mechanically and then just pick away at the other stuff. Don't replace things if they're not broke (glo relay, for example).

I find that the cars can be very affordably maintained unless I go replacing everything that is about 'due'. Heck, the cars run and run and run once the mechanicals are in order.

I like your fluid changes however.

dd

[RNCarl]

WOW! THANKS!

I am impressed with all the replies so soon.

The PO said that he "repaired" the glow relay... huummm... that's why I am wholesale replacing all 5 and the relay. NO glow - plug lite in the dash. Rather it does not come on. I did see diesel giant's site and have already read most of his postings.

Frozen pistons in the calipers?? Awwww........ dang it! I haven't done brakes on a car myself since about 1989... and that was a brake job on an '84 Buick Regal!
The reason I thought it was/is the booster is because you get one or two "normal" stops then you have to "stand" on the brakes. If you let it idle for a short time in park the same thing happens. I am sure I should tear the brakes down anyway huh?

I'm thinking of nick-naming her "Casper" because it is all white. The PO painted the lower section white. Aren't they usually grey on the bottom?

Time to get busy!

C.

.

[MS Fowler]

CONGRADS on jumping into ownership.

Diesel is NOT gas; your fuel is fine UNLESS it had become a breeding ground for algae. Look for black flakes in the primary filter. If you find the little critters, get some algaecide or biocide ( truck stops are a good source), and dump it into the tank. Get a handful of primary filters and change them as they become clogged with the dead algae. From then on you should be OK.

Until you know for certain the condition of the steel brake lines, before every trip, while in the garage, or driveway, STAND ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. If the lines are going to fail, you want then to fail here.
Check those steel lines, especially as they go over the rear suspension.

Seems like you are well on your way to replacing all fluids and filters.

Check your motor mounts, and flex discs.

Preopare for an adventure as you discover how much thought went intio the car you just bought. Yes you will probably spend several times the purchase to get it up to date, but after that initial expense, they are very cost-effective to own.

[Ken300D]

If the car runs well as you get it road ready, don't go the WVO route unless you really, really, really. Really. know what you are doing. These MB diesels are dropping like flies because the injection pumps are being destroyed by bad WVO processing.

If the car needs to be useable transportation, stick with diesel and drive it anywhere you need to go.

Do you know about brake fluid flushing? That's going to be valuable when you do work on the brake system.

Ken300D

Carfax is $25 for 30 days.
Autocheck is $25 for 60 days.

This math exercise is on the SAT.

[rrgrassi]

There may be another vacuum leak as well. Check to O ring between the booster and the master cylinder.

[vstech]

I have seen several examples of white on gray and white on white.
if you are getting normal stops, it's mostlikely not the booster, but the vacuum pump/leaks in the lines. a bad booster rarely functions. I second (or is it third) the test the glow relay first. unless you are just hankoring for the afterglow feature, or want to spend money, you will get no glow light unless at least 4 plugs are working, less than that, and you get no light.
test test test. then replace.
John

[RNCarl]

Originally Posted by vstech

I have seen several examples of white on gray and white on white.
if you are getting normal stops, it's mostlikely not the booster, but the vacuum pump/leaks in the lines. a bad booster rarely functions. I second (or is it third) the test the glow relay first. unless you are just hankoring for the afterglow feature, or want to spend money, you will get no glow light unless at least 4 plugs are working, less than that, and you get no light.
test test test. then replace.
John

OK ordering a mityvac or buying one... where can one be had?

As for the glow relay, I already ordered the "kit" of 4 glow plugs and relay from Fast Lane along with the 1 additional glow plug.

To Richard,

I was thinking the same sort of thing with letting the tank run down. Then clean the screen and diesel purge or what you suggested. At some point I will feed her B20 or higher. Yes I will have a stack of filters handy.


What a ton of good advice. I would have never purchased the car without knowing about a forum like this!

.

[SD Blue]

For the brake problem you describe, I'm thinking your vacuum pump might need a rebuild kit (inexpensive). Sounds like it is marginal.

[Richard Eldridge]

If I were you, I'd use all the fuel down to E, then remove and clean the tank strainer.

If your SD is like my TD, the tank strainer is in the center of the bottom of the tank. To remove it, it should be easy with a bolt with a 22mm head and a good pair of large vise grips. It probably won't need to be replaced. I cleaned mine with some detergent and an old toothbrush to new condition. The strainer will cost about $22 or so.

You will need to jack up the rear several inches and put the car on jackstands or blocks, and you will also need a large pan to hold the fuel that comes old.

This will allow you to see what sort of crud has accumulated in the tank for as long as 24 years ago, and get rid of it.

I think I'd get a couple of cans of Lubro Moly and purge the engine before changing the other filters. See the Diesel Giant site for how to make a purge jug for cheap out of an old juice bottle and Aa meter or so of 3/16" tubing. If the engine needs a purge, then nothing else will improve performance with less expense.

Good luck!