same old vacuum issues/questions?

[dmooney]

vacuum issues keep me posting. basically i'm trying to figure out if it's the IP or not. from everything i've read it seems like it should be that but.....

-leaking oil from the ignition tumbler/diaphragm.
-doors won't lock.
-car won't shut off but does shut off if i plug off the doors and the resovoir and then it takes 5-10 seconds.
-tested the IP and when give a pull from the mityvac the car shuts off and it holds vacuum.
-brakes work fine. doesn't seem to be any oil in the vac line going to the brake booster
-i'm assuming, maybe incorrectly that the vac pump is fine. i will test tonight. i should test at the break booster correct?

also; anyone have any advice about getting behind the dash to pull the two brown lines going into the ignition tumbler? and is there a check valve behind the dash between the firewall and the front driver's side door lock? one schematic i've seen shows one but i'm not sure if i read it right

[dieseldan44]

Originally Posted by dmooney

vacuum issues keep me posting. basically i'm trying to figure out if it's the IP or not. from everything i've read it seems like it should be that but.....

-leaking oil from the ignition tumbler/diaphragm.
-doors won't lock.
-car won't shut off but does shut off if i plug off the doors and the resovoir and then it takes 5-10 seconds.
-tested the IP and when give a pull from the mityvac the car shuts off and it holds vacuum.
-brakes work fine. doesn't seem to be any oil in the vac line going to the brake booster
-i'm assuming, maybe incorrectly that the vac pump is fine. i will test tonight. i should test at the break booster correct?

also; anyone have any advice about getting behind the dash to pull the two brown lines going into the ignition tumbler? and is there a check valve behind the dash between the firewall and the front driver's side door lock? one schematic i've seen shows one but i'm not sure if i read it right

I had same problem - you need a new ignition shut off valve. Mine worked and still leaked oil. its not a bad job at all.

dd

[MattBelliveau]

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

I had same problem - you need a new ignition shut off valve. Mine worked and still leaked oil. its not a bad job at all.

dd

No nessesarily. Have you tryed disconnecting your cabin components (door locks and HVAC) and plugged those holes. Chances are, there is a leak in one of those systems, which would lead to your current condition. I'm assuming it is in your door locks, considering the steps you have to take to shut it down. Considering the mity-vac test directly on the IP shutoff works, then that should prove that the shutoff itself is just fine. Isolate your problem before dumping money and labor into it.

[dieseldan44]

Originally Posted by MattBelliveau

No nessesarily. Have you tryed disconnecting your cabin components (door locks and HVAC) and plugged those holes. Chances are, there is a leak in one of those systems, which would lead to your current condition. I'm assuming it is in your door locks, considering the steps you have to take to shut it down. Considering the mity-vac test directly on the IP shutoff works, then that should prove that the shutoff itself is just fine. Isolate your problem before dumping money and labor into it.

My main reason for suspecting the shut off valve is the 'oil in the tumbler' symptom in the original post. If there is no oil in the master brake line (if there were oil it would indicate failing vac pump), then the oil has to be coming from the shut off valve. Thats my reasoning any ways - as I said I had the same problem.

Totally possible this is a multiple-fault situation if this is a new acquisition.

Respectfully,
dd

[karl2274]

I had the similar issues. My 300DT would not shut off until I disconnected the vacuum line to the doors locks and plugged the supply with a golf tee. Now everything is fine except I don't get heat to the floor???

[dmooney]

Originally Posted by MattBelliveau

No nessesarily. Have you tryed disconnecting your cabin components (door locks and HVAC) and plugged those holes. Chances are, there is a leak in one of those systems, which would lead to your current condition. I'm assuming it is in your door locks, considering the steps you have to take to shut it down. Considering the mity-vac test directly on the IP shutoff works, then that should prove that the shutoff itself is just fine. Isolate your problem before dumping money and labor into it.

i thought it started out with the door locks and i plugged those off for a month or so and the car would shut down but it took 5-10 seconds and wasn't crisp. i've checked the lines to the resovoir and the locks and they hold a vac.

the car's 'new' to me since last march...

there's definitely oil leaking from the tumbler and migrating to the three way valve for the locks/resovoir/cc. and there is also a good deal of oil in the vacuum line that goes to the IP... this wouldn't be the case if it was the door locks correct?

the IP still works when given a pull with the vac but that doesn't mean it's not compromised right?

i'm going to check vac on the pump tonight...