Don't use oil, use CV joint grease. It is a high-pressure MoS2-rich grease, that is what the joint is designed to use. Oil will thin the grease and allow it to centrifuge out of the joint, the grease alone is tenacious enough to cling to the critical surfaces.

It does not need to be full. Greasing the joint thoroughly is all that is necessary, you can massage it in by hand or put it in the boot and massage the boot, massaging with the boot takes more grease.

There is none. When they leak, you replace them. They can last 20-30 years without failing. It wouldn't hurt to clean & treat the stock boots with something like Formula 303, or similar rubber protectant stuff. You want to keep them soft if possible. The axles on my car are original, 285kmi, almost 22 years old, and still in good shape...

:zorro:

Hey powo.. any word on those cv joints? wondering if he ever did the job.

I'm Sparticus
 

Hi, It is my video on Youtube you have all been watching. I read your comments and I can answer some questions for you. This system I got is from a company here in the UK called Bailcast. I have no affiliation with them whatsover. The site is www.bailcast.com. The boot is made of a very stretchy compound which will get over the cone without splitting it (after heating). Do not even think about trying to do this with a standard boot or you will do yourself an injury!

The reason the boot is turned inside out is because I was replacing the outer CV joint boot which means "the big end of the boot" is to the outside of the axle. Therefore, to get one of these on, it must go up the cone, "large hole first" not "small hole first". This is why it has to be reversed twice. Using stretchy boots saves dismantling the joint and possibly damaging it and so far, a year on, it is working fine. It is on my 13 year old Volvo 850 which has done 160,000 miles.

Wait to you see my next video...... Faded bumper rejuvination for FREE!

Watch this space

Tek.

Thanks for the video ShadeTek. I think I may have to do this when I swap out my 3.69 rear. My boots seem to be in fine shape, but I would hate it if they cracked!

And here is the bumper rejuvination I said I would do.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=kXF_hIbq598

Amazing! Any ideas on the long term staying power of the new "look"?

It should last a year or two depending on how much UV is out where you live.

Jimmy L posted some info on Dorman products. When I was looking at the Dorman site I found that the also have Silicone boots. I do not know what the cost but I do not think that they will crack as easily as they get older.
The ad said to use them (front wheel drive) for the boot closest to the engine as they were more heat resistant.

been posted before but It will only work with flex boots. Other boots I wouldnt try it

boots
 

I tried this with a Dorman boot that was supposed to stretch and there was no way that I could get it over the dust cover using a funnel. I might be possible to do that with a flexx boot but I finally gave up and purchased the tool

Cone Method
 

http://www.bailcast.com/duraboot-cv-fitting-static

Here is the link to the Cone Method by the manufacturer. I also emailed them asking if they might have a distributor in the US.

http://www.bailcast.com/en-gb/duraboot-cv-range

They also have videos using their Duragun.
http://www.bailcast.com/en-gb/duraboot-cv-fitting

The W123 boot is a DBC800...
http://www.bailcast.com/en-gb/products/duraboot/cvboots/dbc800

And here's a nice youtube of the Bailcast boot being put on an axle attached to the car. Gives you an idea on the difficulty level of the cone method. Their cone is really made for this since it appears tp extend deeper in to the axle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvBXU54cWYs

I wonder if they ship to the US...:)

Just hopped on the wagon...
 

when I saw a puddle of cv oil in my garage. It's the driver side, inboard boot. Oh well, it's 26 years old. Glad I caught it when I did. It's parked for now and I'll probably just reboot. Let me know what you find out Toby. I may try the Flexx boots as some have said that they work too. Looks like I'll be doing this within a few days and want to make sure I get the right boot as well.

http://www.astoria2000.com/fbspoint.html

I wasn't blessed with patience...
 

so I went ahead and ordered the Flexx boots. They recommended the FB3000 (smaller) boot for my w126. The cost was $17.50 each and $10 for the cone. I ordered four because I may replace them all or at least have extras in case I tear one. If I get them in time, I may do the job this weekend. I hate having to pay for gas/fuel while the oil burner is disabled.

Who'd you get the boots and cone from?