I bought the Cone type tool in the pic below. These are the Instructions with poor pics.
I have not gotton a chance to try it but my quick measurements indicate that the inside diameter of the cone part may be a littl too small.
The metal Tong things appear to keep the Boot from grabbing onto the Cone.
I have had this for over 1 year and had been holding off commenting on it until I tried it myself. But, it does not look like I will get around to trying it for a long time so I posted it.
I bought it at a place called "toolrage" on the internet.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...el911/ZXLC.jpg

I called the guys from the Astoria link that I left in one of my previous messages.

The FB3000 is in fact the correct size. I got the FB3001 and ending up having to trim the largest section off the end, which made it the size of the FB3000 [they had trimming marks designed in at least].

:eek: Did I read that right?

I called them too and the guy laughed cuz he said somebody just called him not 30 minutes prior asking the same thing.

They do have the cone tool available.

90% Complete
 

It took about an hour to remove the caliper, pull the axle from the hub, remove the old boots, and clean up the area. I drained as much of the oil out as I could. Then I packed the bearings with some really expensive CV grease with red molly that I had for my race car (then realized that each boot came with a packet of grease). Both boots are on and the axle is back in the hub. I still have to mount the caliper, zip tie the inboard boot, mount the tire, and pull the car off the jack stands.

A few thoughts/tricks:

1) What a pain in the @$$ to get the axle out of the hub. It was 1/8" from coming out on it's own. I had to use a jack to push up on the differential and roll the hub to get it completely out.

2) I went ahead and replaced both boots while I was at it, although the outboard boot was in better shape. Now that I think about it, it probably isn't possible to replace just the inboard boot because it would have to stretch over the outboard boot. Even if you could do that, you'd get all kinds of junk in the new boot.

3) No matter how much lube you put on the boot and the cone, you still need someone much stronger than me to get it to stretch that much. With the axle still in the differential, it's a weird angle to get the right leverage to push it all the way on. Be careful not to cut your hands on the disk rotor and the thin sharp shroud behind it. I would have never been able to get it on without a heat gun.

4) Wrap a rag around the boot as you're sliding it up the cone. This will allow you to get a better grip on the boot. Once the outside of the boot gets a little oil or grease on it, it's impossible to get a grip on it.

5) What a pain in the @$$ to pack the bearing when its way up in that stupid can!

6) I had to cut the last ridge off the boot. I ordered the smaller boot, but the last ridge was still too big. The second to last ridge was just right (70mm if I recall correctly). When I do the passenger side, I'll cut this off before I stretch it onto the shaft.

7) I must be missing some special tool to tighten the metal tie wraps that come with the kit. I finally gave up and used nylon zip ties.

8) It was also a pain to thread the bolt that goes into the axle from the hub. It has a heavy metal sleeve on it that makes it almost impossible to center. Make sure the axle is as far in the hub as possible before you try to thread the bolt.

All in all, it took 3 1/2 hours with the axle in the diff. I took frequent breaks and took my time. Now that I know what to do, I can probably knock an hour off that when I do the other side. Good luck!!!!

Thanks for the steps.... did you take any pics?

On step 6), I was wondering if it would be better to trim/cut the ridge after so you can have more material to grip on to. What do you think?

No, I didn't take any pictures because I was busy trying to figure it all out. Now that I know what to expect and will be a little more comfortable, maybe I'll take pictures when I do the other side.

I have pretty wide hands and had plenty of material to grip onto. I think it'd be easier to cut while off the shaft and it shouldn't take away that much material. It not only stretches radially when you push it up the cone, it also stretches axially. Hope all this helps. I guess someone has to be the guinea pig.

flex boots
 

I put mine on (flex boots from auto zone)while the joint was still on the car.Just took it off and let it drop down,turned flex boot inside out )for outer joint) lubed it with grease,got under the car,two good pulls and it was on,turned it right side out,got a dryer hose connector(steel screw clamp from Loews,)packed the joint full of grease,put the clamp on, done deal in a hour and half. Don't cut anything till you have the boot on also grab the boot with two shop rags one for each hand,gives you a lot of pulling power.Its easy!!! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ons/icon10.gif

So, you put the boots on without using a cone to make it slip on easier?