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  #1  
Old 12-08-2007, 03:36 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Estonia
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Opening up w123 starter

Hi,

my '83 MB w123 240D started to make weird noise after ignation for a few seconds. Sounds like starter doesn't separete from flywheel fast enough.

So I took the starter out and hoped to examine it closer. Managed to take the brushes and stator poles off. Now I'd want to take the rotor part fully out of the remaining starter chassis and examine the pulling relay mechanism (and add grase/lubrication where neccesary) but this is the thing I hope someone to enlight me.

So what should I do to get the rotor out?

Here are some pictures of current state: http://picasaweb.google.com/qratman/MBW123

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  #2  
Old 12-08-2007, 05:35 AM
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Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,420
Generally, the solenoid needs to be removed. That looks to be your next step. It seems to be held in place with two philips or posidrive screws. Once removed, the lever that the solenoid uses to force the starter gear outwards and towards the flywheel can be removed, and the rest of the starter can be disassembled and inspected from there.

Now, I've never pulled apart a Mercedes starter, but I've done plenty of other starters. Something may be different about yours, but I can't say that the Mercedes starter appear to be constructed much differently than any other starter that I've personally worked on.

Someone else here may have better details and personal experience with the identical starter, so don't lose hope if the responses take time.
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- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #3  
Old 12-08-2007, 06:35 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
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Thanks for the answer.

Opening those screws seems logical yes, but too bad there are screws with *philips* head cause they are so rusted that it's impossible to get them out in one piece. Tried driving them out with force and now screw heads are round shaped (hexagonal bolts would have been alot better idea).

Dont want to breake those screws either, so i guess I'll add grease were possible, clean contacts, mount it back and use it as long as it still works.
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  #4  
Old 12-08-2007, 06:57 AM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
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That puts a damper on things. I'd personally drill the heads off and then get the shafts out with a pair of locking pliers. Or, just slap it back on the car and use it while shopping for a new one.
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- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #5  
Old 12-08-2007, 09:26 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Matthews, NC
Posts: 1,356
I agree, just use a drill and drill the head off the screws. There is a spring in the solinoid that can cause the problem you have. A good hardware store should have the replacement screws.
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2007, 10:22 AM
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Since I already started to assemble it back, I'll first look how it behaves now. If nothing changes I'll try drilling those screws and take closer look inside.

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