Valve adjustment and.....

[RoysVeggy]

I will be doing a valve adjustment for the first time since I purchased my 300d and was wondering what else I should do while I have the valve cover pulled?
Recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

Merry Christmas to all!

[85 DSEL]

LOL! I JUST did my first valve adjustment today! Not a terribly difficult job, especially if you follow the many different threads here on the forum - it's a well worn subject!

My biggest problem I had to deal with was getting that 'cwazy' valve cover back down on the head studs! The front did NOT want to go down easily between the timing chain and the cruise control actuator. Any suggestions on that one anybody?

I would suggest replacing the gasket IF you have no idea when it was last changed. Because today was Christmas Eve, most of the businesses were closing early so I wasn't able to get a new one (should have had one already!). I'm prolly gonna have some oil leakage since I didn't! I tried to clean the old one and the head surface as well as the valve cover edge.

I was :::rushing::: around - trying to get it done in time to get to the 7:00 Christmas eve service at church since my son and daughter were singing - ended up snapping the brittle turbo boost vac line that comes off the back of the exaust manifold at the banjo bolt! That was a 'trip' fixing that! I was able to run to Lowes and get a few feet of 'hard' polypropylene tubing just the right size to hold (I hope) until I can get the proper tubing. You might want to look into replacing that while the cover is off - it's just easier to get at.

All in all it's a pretty straight forward job but need to not be rushed...just my .02!

[charmalu]

There are the DIY links at the top of the page, a lot of info there.
also do a search on valve adjustment and chain stretch.

It`s sugested to change the gasket every valve adjustment. but I have
gotten away with using it over. I clean off the head where the gasket
mates to the head, and I use carb spray cleaner to clean up the valve cover. clean out the oil in the groove in the gasket. I seems to help to
keep the gasket on while replacing the cover.

After 4 or 5 times of the gasket falling off fighting to get the cover to go
on over whatever it gets hung up on, it magically falls into place.

I usually remove two of the screws on the cruise control and loosen the
third one and just swivel it to one side. gives some clearance for the
cover.

Charlie

[JimmyL]

Polish the valve cover, of course!!

[Diesel911]

If lined up carefully gives you quick check of your timing chain stretch (aproximate).

[hangit]

What are you lining up to judge the stretch? Links in the teeth?

John

Originally Posted by Diesel911

If lined up carefully gives you quick check of your timing chain stretch (aproximate).

[barry123400]

I normally also inspect the cam lobes for their general condition when doing a valve clearance adjustment on any older engine that requires one. The condition of the chain guide should be inspected as well. Severe wear and deterioration of them seem to contribute to chain breakage.

[toomany MBZ]

The worst aspect of a valve adjustment is, as you have found out, is getting the cam cover back on.
Someone has suggested using fish line to tie on while you install, and snip and remove said lines before torquing down.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by hangit

What are you lining up to judge the stretch? Links in the teeth?

John

On the left side of the pic your are looking at the timing marks on the back of the cam shaft drive gear and the other mark on the camshaft bearing tower (they are lined up in the photo).
When the timing chain is firs installed the gear and the bearing tower marks are lined up and the crank shaft pully (balancer, vibration dampner) with the degree marks is lined up on top dead center (0 on the degree marks).
If you look on the left hand portion of the photo you see my crank pully (a little blury) showing not quite but about 2 degrees past the 0 (top dead center mark) giving me an aproximate idea that my timing chain has stretched about 2 degrees. For the milage on my car 197,000 this is OK.
This is not the most accurate method just kind of a field check.
If I had something like 6 degrees I would do the more accurate check with the dial indicator (the 2mm method).
(In fact I want to do the 2mm method anyway and I have ordered a metric dial indicator as I hate converting to inches.)
You might want to check some of the other threads concerning this(checking the timing chain stretch).

[mobetta]

A light coating grease on the mating surface of the VC gasket will help seal it. I keep a new gasket on hand, but have not replace mine yet, had it off 4-5 times.

[winmutt]

Originally Posted by hangit

What are you lining up to judge the stretch? Links in the teeth?

John

The arrow on the cam tower and the gap in the ring. It is NOT a measurement of timing chain stretch, it is a very POOR method of measuring cam timing. Use the 2mm lift method as described by the FSM and on here.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by winmutt

The arrow on the cam tower and the gap in the ring. It is NOT a measurement of timing chain stretch, it is a very POOR method of measuring cam timing. Use the 2mm lift method as described by the FSM and on here.

I did not choose my words carefully.
Take out the words “check the timing chain stretch” and put in “check the measurment of the cam timing” and add: which can change due wear and timing chain stretch.
My thought was it was a quick way of spotting a potential problem that might need more looking into.
Suppose I had done the check as I described and saw on the pulley 12 degrees after TDC. To me this would clearly be cause for concern; more investigation; leading to corrective action.
And, something else he could do while the vlave cover was off.