Got any injector sets that are fully ready to go?

I live in a small apartment with limited space for tools, I don't even have the equipment to take apart an injector to change the nozzle -- let alone pop-test them -- so something that I can fully drop-in with just a torque wrench (which I'd have to buy) would be perfect.

Doing it that way would be about the same price as taking nozzles to my mechanic, anyway.

I do
 

I have some for 61X with turbo, all internal parts and upper holder NEW, lower holder re coated in anti corrosive (like gun blue) coating. $48.00 with exchange of old ones. I don't have any for normally aspirated at this time. However I can replace and balance a set if you can set them to me.

What'd you charge to retrofit all 4 of my injectors with the new good nozzles that you have, balance 'em all to whatever 115 bar, etc.? Overnight both ways also...my '83 240D is my daily driver, most downtime I could have is like...3 days. Maybe 4 if I get ambitious with my bike.

PM sent
 

Whereabouts are you?

Sean i've been talking to you via email about parts for my 240 injectors. I'd be interested in the same service as well. I'd rather just send them to you have you do that and send them back. Shoot me an email or pm and let me know.

Hi Aaron
 

email sent

so what's pop testing. And when should I change injectors

To all with new nozzles (any brand)
 

This is from Monark Diesel's technical department. (I think I translated it all correctly)

TESTING AND ADJUSTING
Nozzle needle and body are lap fitted to each other and should never be mismatched.
Testing should be carried out with clean diesel fuel oil or test oil meeting ISO 4113.
NEVER USE GASOLINE FOR TESTING! EXPLOSION OR FIRE COULD RESULT.
Keep hands away from nozzle spray. It can penetrate deep into the skin and and destroy the tissues. Fuel oil in the blood stream can cause blood poisoning.

Clean all nozzles.
Remove special conservation oil completely from new nozzles by washing them in clean gasoline.
Clean used nozzles of soot and carbon and likewise wash in gasoline. Allow them to dry then dip nozzles in clean fuel oil and insert them into injector body.

Testing.
When assembling, hand center and tighten before tightening with a wrench. Cap nut torques: 'P' nozzle 30-50Nm, 'S' nozzle 50-90Nm, 'T' nozzle 80-100Nm (verify for your specific application)
Verify nozzle is not jammed by connecting to the tester with the gauge stopcock OFF.
Operate the pump lever several times, forcefully about 6-8 pumps per second. If the needle is not jammed, the nozzle should chatter with a shrill whistle. If not, loosen the cap nut, rotate the nozzle and tighten. NOTE: hole type nozzles (IE: SD 240) will not chatter like pintle type nozzles even when the lever is pumped quickly.

Opening (pop) pressure.
Pressure is specific to your engine. Adjust it accordingly. It is sometimes stamped on the injector body.
CAUTION: WHEN PRESSURE GAUGE IS BEING USED increase and decrease pressure slowly or gauge damage may result. Slowly increase the pressure until slight chattering, read indicated pressure. Turn adjusting screw or change shims as necessary. When the lever is operated slowly (1-2 pumps per second) all nozzles should spray/chatter. However, the spray need not be even or well atomized.

Leakage test.
Operate lever until gauge indicates 20 bar (285 psi) below specified pressure. The nozzle does not leak if no drop of fuel falls from the nozzle in 10 seconds.

Chatter and spray pattern.
Close the gauge stopcock. Spray pattern is observed when the lever is pumped rapidly (4-6 per second.)
The pattern for pintle and throttle nozzles should be even and well atomized. For hole type nozzles, full and finely atomized.

Cleanliness is essential when testing. The test area should be free of dust and dirt. Only use clean diesel fuel or test oil.