|
|
|
|
|
#1
12-20-2007, 08:12 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
More vibration with new motor mounts
I just replaced the two motor mounts and the center anti-vibration t-mount on my '79 240D 4spd. The driver's side mount was shot, as well as the t-mount. Passenger side looked good, and I didn't bother with the transmission mount since it looks pretty good.
I adjusted the valves 8,000 miles ago. The vibration was never that bad in the first place, but I saw that huge crack in the driver's mount and figured I should change it. Will these mounts soften up after a few thousand miles? Any adjustments I can make? I'm thinking of putting the old passenger side mount where the new driver's side mount is now. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks 
|
|
#2
12-20-2007, 08:15 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Front shocks? Is what I'm thinking may be the difference, Otto. That's a tough one.
When I replaced my motor mounts, it vastly improved the vibration.
|
|
#3
12-20-2007, 08:38 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
You might try what they call settling the mounts. If you loosen the 8mm hex socket bolts on the mounts, not too much, just enough to give them a little slack, then start the engine, and let it run for a bit. The shut it off and tighten the bolts. Sometimes things can get a little tweeked when jacking and lowering the engine for removal and installation.
If that doesn't fix it. It might be time to remove the injectors and test them, rebuild them if they needed it, or put in new nozzles.
__________________
Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon  '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
|
|
#4
12-21-2007, 10:54 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I tried settling the outer mounts without much luck, but adjusting the center t-mount made the most difference. Backing off on that t-mount made the high frequency vibration go a way. If you adjust the t-mount just right, then the car shifts more smoothly between gears. I'll probably replace the transmission mount to match the stiffness of the other mounts.
|
|
#5
01-28-2008, 01:39 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
How did you adjust the t-mount? I'm having the same problem. I replaced all of my mounts and its worse now. 3 of my injectors are leaking and i'm thinking about rebuilding them. However, i'd rather have another set to rebuild so i dont have to be without the car.
__________________
|
|
#6
01-28-2008, 02:09 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
In order to adjust the t-mount, loosen the 19 mm bolt. You can then either push the rubber stop up, closer to block, or let it drop down. My experience was that I got more vibration with the stop pressing on the block, but my shifts were tighter. The car felt a little more solid. I opted to back the stop off of the block though because of the high frequency vibrations on the freeway.
See if you can find some injectors at the junkyard. I've had good luck with that. Just check for carbon around the tip.
|
|
#7
01-28-2008, 02:38 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I live in South Texas and while there are plenty of junkyard Mb's around none of the individuals who own them are willing to part with the injectors. I do know of one guy who is a friend that has a 77 300d that i've been robbing parts off of but if i remember right someone beat me to the injectors.
 Believe me i've been everywhere around here looking for "junkyard" cars that i can pull parts from. next time i have the car up on jackstands i'm going to try to adjust this mount to see if there is any improvement. I cant stand the way it vibrates. Then when it warms it starts with the shakes.
__________________
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
