Do you need a vacuum actuator (like the one that came with the car) or a pressure actuator? I have a vacuum one sitting on a shelf.

did the swap nothing works
 

I got the wastegate as outlined in the form ripped out all my emissions stuff. Cut down the waste gate and mounted as seen in the pictures. Tapped a port in the crossover on the intake ran the wastegate vaccume to that and nothing happens. Seems to be the waste gate only operates when i blow compressed air into it. So preasure not vacume. Intake only seeems to be sucking. I also lost air to my 2 center vents there blowing out of defrost and my rear headrest stopped working. I left the lines coming off the vacume pump alone and just conected the 1 that runs over to the air bbox into the line that runs into the cab. I dont know how to get this actuator to work without preasure

How much pressure does it take to open the wastegate? Plumb a boost gauge to the intake manifold. Can you get to 15 psi? You won't get there in P or N. Don't hold the throttle beyond 15 psi.

Sixto
83 300SD

I got it all straightend out runa great boosts fine now thanks for the help

Whew - I finally just finished this thread - it took me a few days! I'm still digesting it all, of course, but I have a few questions, particularly for anyone who has done this mod more recently:

1) Is the pressure actuator still available from APT? If so, is the design different enough to require an approach other than what was outlined in the OP?

2) Some people have mentioned tackling this from above, others from below? What is the easiest way to do this? Ideally I would like to keep the turbo on the car.

3) Since I want to keep the turbo on the car, I don't want to tap into the turbo housing like gsxr did. Many posters have mentioned a "port" on the intake manifold. Is this a plugged up hole that one can simply drop the NPT/barb fitting into? Or is it better to tap into a line that comes off the manifold, via a "T" fitting or something?

4) Any consensus on what sort or size of line to use to connect the actuator to the NPT/barb fitting?

5) Do I need to block off the EGR system, or can I just plug off that whole side of the car after the vac pump with an "F" fitting, and just delete the "rat's nest" at my convenience, as desired?

Ultimately, I'm looking to tap into the years of experience that have gone into this mod to figure out the most efficient (and ultimately, easiest) way to go about doing this. If/when I get this done, I intend to write a detailed post with links to all needed part numbers, etc.

Thanks for any info!

1. Just need to check with ATP. When I did it, it was out of stock for a while but then they got a new supply. It's almost a direct fit...need to either shorten the rod a bit or (what I did) use spacer nuts to shorten.

2. If you leave everything in place, I think from below is the way to go. But, if you're willing to remove part of the firewall, from above would probably be easier. I did it from below.

3. Yes, there is a ready-made port that you just unplug and put a fitting into. But you can easily tap into a line if you want to.

4. I used fuel hose that fit both the fitting and the actuator. I remember it being a little challenging to find something that would be a tight fit on both ends...since the diameters of the fittings are different.

5. All you really need to do (and all I have done) is eliminate the vacuum supply to that side of the engine using an "F" fitting. Over time, I have removed some stuff. Still haven't physically blocked off the EGR with a plate. But that's the way to do it right....to eliminate the possibility of the valve being stuck open. I even have the kit...just haven't gotten around to it.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I've read in the thread that this is a fairly simple, straightforward mod, once you get past the initial phase where the thing is hard to visualize exactly what's going on (the stage I'm currently stuck in, lol). But then ther are people saying they've done this in 1-2 hours, which I figure means it can't be too bad...

Will contact ATP today. I know they specifically mentioned a length of silicone hose, but then someone else said it didn't snug up quite right on both fittings. And then later down the line, someone linked to another NTP fitting at Summit Racing, said it was supposed to be closer in diameter to the actuator fitting. At this point, I think I'm just going to buy a couple different fittings and lines and see what works best. Afterwards, I'll try to link back to everything I bought (and maybe throw in a few pics of the install, although part of me thinks I must be the only OM602 owner who hasn't yet done this...).

Any chance you can snap a pic of where you tapped into the IM?

OK, so if anyone is following, this is what I've ordered:

- Garrett pressure-operated wastegate actuator (p/n 433489-12) from ATP Turbo here.
- 1/8" ID extruded silicone vacuum hose (p/n ATP-SIL-125) from ATP Turbo here.
- Turbonetics brass 1/8" NTP to 4mm hose barb fitting (p/n 30307) from Summit Racing here.
- Mercedes-Benz branch-off connector (i.e., F-shaped connector, p/n 601-078-06-45) from ********AZ here, or whatever your favorite source of Genuine OE parts is.

Some of this info is in the thread elsewhere, but I thought it might be useful to consolidate the stuff into one post for anyone who may be browsing in the future.

It was specifically mentioned that the ATP-recommended 3/16" hose fit fine on their recommended NPT/barb fitting, but was loose on the actuator, but that a 1/8" hose (which I gather would work with the actuator) would not fit on the barb. Then someone linked to the Turbonetics fitting, which they said had a barb that was very close to the actuators fitting - at 4mm, it is very close to 1/8", so I basically looked for the same hose ATP had recommended, but changed the size from 3/16" ID to 1/8" ID.

I will confirm fitment when the products arrive, but I think this should be all one needs to complete this job, other than a couple of zip ties to secure the hose to the fittings.

Are we talking these little brass plugs on the manifold, just above where the ALDA taps into (see pic, highlighted in yellow)? Too easy.

On another note, I just realized how difficult ALDA access is on this engine. It looks just about impossible, short of removing the intake manifold. It looks to have the rubber cap still on it, so likely not been messed with - not surprised, given the location.

Finally, anyone know what that unused bracket on the IM is, on the left side of the pic? Am I supposed to have something there?

For routing of lines through plastic clips as seen in the forum photo link below.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/94597d1312786596-om602-no-fuel-flow-stranded-w124om602300d25fuel.jpg

Yes, those brass plugs.

No, you don't have to remove the intake manifold to remove the ALDA.

The ALDA can almost always be removed without pulling the intake manifold... see the "ALDA_removal" photo series at this link.

In some rare cases the ALDA will hang up on the metal injection lines, in which case you may need to loosen a couple to get it out (or, pull the manifold, which gives you an excuse to clean it out and replace the gasket).

The ALDA can be adjusted with shims so you can leave the top seal alone. It's not a rubber cap, it's a metal coffee-can type thingy with a plastic insert on top which acts as a tamper-resistant seal. If you want to adjust via the setscrew under the tamper seal, you have to remove the seal first, which generally means destroying it. For stock appearance you can accomplish the same thing via shims. See attached photo. MOST stock engines/IP generally need about 1.0-1.5 turns richer to compensate for wear and/or the low-BTU diesel fuel sold in most states (including the entire west coast). If you plan to max out the full-load delivery screw (2f), hold off on any ALDA tweaks, you will need to re-adjust the ALDA after fiddling with 2f. The same applies if you will be installing larger pump elements.

:zorro:

Perfect. :thumbsup:

OK, god to know. I haven't done too much research yet, as I want to get this EGR/wastegate thing sorted first. I did see one post where someone mentioned doing the job with a right-angle screwdriver, though.

As always, thanks Dave!