That's old WG was the DEVIL to get to. Ugh..

I've got the new one on and didn't need to shorten it. I just followed a previous example by removing the nut, twisting it all the way in, and adding a couple lock washers.

I only created one complication. I don't know what you call it but there's a plastic hose/tube that leads from the rubber duct that comes from the air clean and goes up into the head next to the oil fill cap. That plastic took barely any stress and shattered. I've pulled it out of the top of the head where the gromet is. Now I gotta figure what that's called and where to get a part and whether I can drive it like it is in the interim.

Next weekend is EGR delete!

EDIT: There's a bit of oil in there too. A small amount of it puddled in the turbo.

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Try breather hose. Most likely a dealer part but check the Buy Parts link at the top of the page.

Sixto
87 300D

It is called a breather pipe, MB p/n 602-010-06-07. Make sure you get the rubber grommet that the pipe fits down into at the valve cover end too. It will be so hard that you will think it is plastic. I had the p/n for it somewhere but can't put my hand on it right now. I had the same thing happen to me and had to replace one over the past couple weeks is the reason I have the p/n handy for the pipe.

The wastegate for the application I'm working on should be here the first of next week.

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Jim

It's the PCV pipe to get crankcase vapors routed back to the intake. A small amount of oil is normal. As Jim said, replace both the pipe as well as the rubber grommet in the valve cover. Could be $30-$40 total.

The grommet is 601 016 01 63. List under $5.00, discounted under $3.00.

Sixto
87 300D

Finished the conversion this afternoon and the car has all the boost it can use. The ALDA I'm running has been gutted which, when the turbo was not building boost, made the car smoke on full throttle acceleration from standing start. I've got another ALDA that I'm going to try in it either this afternoon or tomorrow just to see what difference it makes. Now, with the turbo building up to 14 psi boost the car runs good. Shifts are kinda hard so I may tweek it a little to see if I can smooth them out some.

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Jim

Check to make sure you didn't knock loose any vac connections. I did that and had an awfully harsh 2-3 and 3-4 shift.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

After running it again with the boost gauge on it I think I will go back and add the spacer washers to the diaphragm attachment studs. When I installed it I had to compress the rod slightly to get it to fit on the wastegate actuator pin. It looks like this has the same effect as making the wastegate open a little later.

Without running an exhaust gas temperature indicator what boost pressure should you start to worry?

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Jim

If you're using the pressurized wastegate that is recommended it opens at 14psi. It is normally closed (boost on condition) and will open fully at 14psi. Maybe I'm missing something but I don't think it will create an overboost condition. Unless the actuating hose comes off. In that case it might be nice to have a boost gauge permanently installed.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

MB was concerned enough that they added an overboost protection circuit to which cuts the boost signal to the ALDA over 1.1 bar. IIRC all MB turbodiesels with pressure wastegate actuators have this feature. The feature is integral with EDS controlled boost (from US model year '92?). Anyone familiar with the failsafe wonders if it's worth incorporating with this mod.

Sixto
87 300D

The question is whether to add a separate overboost protection circuit when converting a 92-93 that doesn't have it to begin with.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks for all the advice and the great idea for this. Last weekend's WG actuator swap was a success.

I've just performed the EGR delete (using kit) and I've unbolted the mixer actuator. I'm trying to figure how to get the arm of the actuator off to where it attaches .. to a flap control arm or something I guess? I have no idea what's inside it.. At any rate, I don't want to destroy stuff if for some reason I mess something up and need to put it back. I want to know how to remove the thing without breaking something. Also what would be the best way to make the flap/valve/whatever stay in the open position once I get the actuator removed fully?

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Why not leave the actuator in place? It's not hurting anything, and it keeps the flap open.

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Without vacuum it doesn't do anything. I disconnected all the vacuum to that side after doing the egr delete.

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A spring in the actuator holds the flap open. Vacuum overcomes the spring, pulls the actuator rod and closes the flap.

Sixto
87 300D