Replacing Starter 1980TD
 

Looks like the starter gear may be stripped on the TD. I should have predicted it since it was showing signs of progressively missing since the time I started it many times weeks ago when I had air in the IP. I can now say that what the FSM said about excessive starting will #@%& the starter.

Anyways, I'll be working on it this weekend replacing the starter. It should be pretty straight-forward but am always open to advise/suggestions.

I decided to just get the starter from AZ. I was gonna order it online but its just a hassle shipping the core back. Plus, AZ offers a lifetime wty and for $99 at the store.... its kinda hard to justify going elsewhere. Yes, I know its not a Bosch:(... but they are ALL remans anyway...:rolleyes:

I used 2' of extensions, universals on both ends and a breaker bar. Starter motor comes out with wheels turned all the way to the right, over the top of the tie rod with solenoid turned towards the engine. I jacked up only the front of the car which made it a little difficult to get under the back of the tranny to loosen the bolts, but I still accomplished the task. Should be able to do it in less than 2 hrs. I think the difficulty of the job is overrated, it's not that hard. Good to have a helper to hold the starter from above when installing the bolts.

does anybody ever use an impact wrench for this? when I worked in the shop I got the rep for fastest changer of parts... I used and impact wrench for EVERYTHING! impact universals, and GOOD extensions work everytime!

I'd echo what kerry said. Make sure you've got long socket extensions. I used a 2'+1'+3" extension +universal on one end. This will get you past the back of the tranny where you can actually use the breaker bar, then the wrench. I too only had the front in the air (on ramps). I wound up having to disconnect the right tie rod even after turning the wheels both directions (be VERY careful if you're doing this on ramps). Having the car on jackstands with the suspension unweighted probably made the difference for kerry getting it out without the tie rod coming off. Either way though, it's not that big of a deal. Figuring out the super long socket extension is what took me the most time. I kept trying to get at it from the top or the side. After I realized I could reach it from the back with the extensions things went quickly. If I remember right, I also disconnected the tranny dipstick tube brace at the top of the motor to allow it to flex out of the way enough to get a hand in from the top to guide the socket into place. I didn't have the luxury of an assistant, but I completed the job myself in the 2hrs that kerry estimates. With an assistant guiding things from the top, I think that things would go much quicker. Get some long socket extensions, and Good luck!

I didn't, but if I owned an impact wrench I too would use it on EVERYTHING!!! lol :D

first tool I bought when I got my own garage!
second was an air compressor... dang thing didn't work without air...
that was a Looooooong time ago. moved up to a nice IR 950Lb impact. indestructible...

Thanks, Fellas. My 3/8" drive set has several extensions. Hopefully, the 3/8 drive will be beefy enough.

My TD is a non-turbo. Does this mean it might go even better? I have not investigated the project yet. Don't even know which side the starter is.

Also, where did you get your starters?

IMHO I think that you're going to struggle with a 3/8" drive socket set. My bolts were seized up pretty good. I used a 1/2" drive breaker bar and it was still a struggle. You can always put a pipe on the 3/8" wrench for more leverage...if your universal joint holds.

I don't think that the turbo vs. non-turbo will make any difference. It might be easier to get the starter out of the car if you think there's room for it to come out of the top (after removing the air cleaner assy.), but it won't matter in terms of accessing the bolts. The starter is on the turbo side of the motor, but the bolts come into it from the back (tranny side).

I pulled my starter for no reason. I had a (still unresolved) current drain that I thought was my solenoid. It wasn't, and the starter tested good on the bench so I put it back in. I can't make any recommendations on a new one.

I have a compressed air set up for my garage (compressor in bsmt piped to garage). Mainly use it for wheel removal and occasional cutting. Don't have long extensions for the 1/2" drive.

At this point, am just glad I have a heated garage. it was 7F with -15F windchill and white-out conditions:eek: this morning. Suppose to warm up to 17 tomorrow though;).

I don't think a 3/8 system would have taken the forces necessary to break free the bolts. I'd plan on using 1/2". My instructions apply to the NA, not the turbo model.
Impact wrench might be very helpful.

..just hope its your starter that's bad and not your ring gear.:eek:

The AZ starter is a rebuilt Bosch (rebuilt in Malaysia:rolleyes:)...our 300D has one we put on a few months ago, works great!

On My '80 TD the top bolt, accessed from the rear, is a 10mm Allen head. I cut off a short piece of an Allen wrench and used it in a 10 mm socket. Be sure the bolt socket is completely clear and clean and the wrench fits well. When the starter is out you can inspect the ring gear, turning the engine a little at a time. Steve

There may be too much flexing with 3/8 extensions if so go right to 1/2 inch. You have to transfer the torque not radically twist the 3/8 extensions. A 1/2 inch breaker bar is usually required as well. That top bolt can be tight.
Thank me for posting this as your bolt will now almost fall out because I suggested it might be difficult. :) Make sure your metric allen bit is bottomed in the fastening as well. This is one bolt you do not want to mess up.

im about to change my starter
 

So if im understanding you correctly i need more than 3 feet of extensions to change the starter? Holly Crap!