Blah, blah, blah, K&N's suck, blah, blah, blah. Whatever. I run them on two vehicles and have never had a problem. I know of the supposed issue and the negative press. I make no claim of increased performance, etc. I only did it on the MB as I got tired of replacing filter mounts and brackets and listening to the rattle. Oil analysis every other change indicates there is NO increase silica, or any other debris and all is well. Good enough for me. Given how many miles I actually drive the MB it will rust out long before the supposed "damage" from the K&N is an issue. The work truck just hit 252K, K&N since 120K. No issues.
RT |
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The above means that Chrysler has determined that use of the K&N filter will not cause engine failure during the warranty period. |
I'm middle of the road. K&N lets thru more smaller particles- ie dirt. How it hurts the engine is not proven. Does it hurt according to conventional logic? yes. Does it hurt according to testing? Maybe. Does it hurt the engine so much that you will have major or minor engine problems over time? Well yes.... when will those problems occur... sooner than the rest of your car fails? (tranny, body, interior etc) ---that is not proven. Most marine diesel engines from 800-2400 hp have oiled filters- however there are is little dust on the water compared to land. Use at your own risk.
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All this has become too theoretical for me. At the one place where I worked we would mark the top of the pistons with a number to match the liner and cylinder that they were to go into with a Black felt marker. One of the “theoretical” types pointed out that the Black inked felt marker number on the top of the piston was going to absorb more heat because it was black and things colored black absorb more heat. Sounds bad; the black part of the piston absorbing more heat than the other parts. While everyone was dazed by this thought someone spoke up that the whole top of the piston gets black from combustion and we all able to breathed easier.
I do not believe that K&N filters if used correctly are going to damage my engine. I also do not believe that having the air inlet drawing less dense air from the engine compartment is going to make any difference in the normal use of the car (after all if you drive in the desert it can be 120 degrees F and the car runs OK). Who knows maybe the extra hot air drawn from the engine compartment helps combustion in older engines. Not to mention that when the turbo compresses the air the act of compression raises the inlet air temp a little also. |
409 cleaner is fine, tranny fluid is fine, but I do use their own oil.
BTW, I race a 532 hp car. K&N's DO NOT enhance performance. Nothing will dyno better than a fresh PAPER element, AC Delco preferably, although WIX are good. Having said that, with a vitnage 3X2 intake on that engine now, it wears a K&N. The reason to use K&N is for the reuseable element. Great idea for a daily driver you put a ton of miles on. I use it on the 500 hp 7200 rpm big block since a paper element for the 3X2 intake is not available. I'll buy one for my Tahoe and my Benz, as I expect to get ALOT more miles out ofthem, and I'm not looking for every last lbs ft of torque. But then again, if you repalce a clogged paper filter with a K&N , it'll seem like a great filter. Just like guys put an MSD ignition on their gasser and claim its so much better; yeah, only becuase the original ignition wasnt at 100%. but I still use them. I'll buy the Benz one first, as those paper filters are $12-14, whereas the Tahoe one is only $5.Fine air filters. |
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How is it possible for a turboed Mercedes to survive in somplace like Saudi or the other Middle East countries in their ambient temps? I guess Flawed describes me as I have not even discovered all of them yet!!! It is nice to know that there is still undescovered territory to investigate! Logical; not all the time. My logic is easy to test. Drive your car around and watch the temp gauge. Remove the part of you air intake system (snorkel?) that is above the radiator and connects to the air filter. Drive your car and see if your temp guage rises or your car runs worse. If the temp. dose not go up it means at the very least the cooling system is able to compensate for the little bit of extra heat sucked in from the under the hood air. And I bet you will not be able to feel any differance in performance. |
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Cold air is denser, and thus provides better mixing for fuel/air resulting in better combustion. The N/A carb equipped gassers had "hot" air intake to help with the evaporation of gasoline in the intake. Air that was too cold made the engine run too rich, until it was warmed up. |
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cold dense air + fuel = better combustion, OK. Better combustion = higher exhaust gas temps. Higher exhaust gas temps can damage exhaust valves. Which will produce the lowest exhaust gas temperature after combustion is over with? The hot less dense are from the engine compartment going into the intake system or cold denser air? Myself, I don't know and I do not think that for practical purposes of every day driving it matters. |
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