I have a 81 240d with a malfunctioning rear window defroster.
A while back I asked about accessing the wireing to the window, and
was told to remove the interior piece the seatbelt goes through to get to the wires.
I can get this piece loose but am unable to completely remove it. It appears to be nessecery to remove the parcel shelf to do this.
How is this accomplished???? and am I on the right track???
I have power to the relay for the defrost and to the connector by the emergency brake release, the heating element appears to be intact, so,,,,??? Now the connection to the window???
Jon J
81 240D 260K

I am unsure on your car but generally the rear window defroster stops working because of a separation of the two pieces of glass, damaging the internal wires. The only way to repair this is to replace the rear window. If you have 12v to the (i think) *driver's side* (on a w126) then it is the window NOT the wiring or relay.

-Joey

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1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED
1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD
1984 300SD.....SOLD
1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08
1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW

What I want is to get to the connection between the window and the harness so that I can test the window. How is this done????
Is there anyone out there that knows?
I don't even know for sure that the window is even pluged in, do I, not without acsessing the plug.
Even if I were to replace the window I still need to un plug the window. how do I get to the plug???
Do people just cut the wires???
Jon J
81 240D

From my FSM, it appears the connectors are in the right and left hand side of the trunk near the springs in early versions. In later versions, the connectors are mounted near the seat belt posts on the pillars.

If you need pics, I may be able to email PDF of my FSM pages.

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

Yes thank you. I was told at the local bone yard that they were near the seatbelt mount but I havent figured out how to get to them yet. I loath to use force on the plastic covers. Ive had the trunk plastic out but no wires.
Pictures would be very helpfull.
Thank you.
Jon J

On my w126 you have to lift up on the trim piece to remove it. I can fit a multi meter probe in to check for voltage if that is easy on the w123 I am not sure.

-Joey

__________________
1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED
1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD
1984 300SD.....SOLD
1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08
1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW

Lift up?
Do you slide the piece up to remove?
there are some clips on the front edge that I am able to unfasten also one on the back edge that is metal, also can unfasten, then I am stumped. I will try to lift up in the AM and see what happens.
Thank You, Jon

To unlatch those front clips, pull the weatherstripping away from the body and use a screwdriver to carefully push the three clips just enough to unlatch them. Too much and they might break off. After they are unlatched, I believe you lift or pull to remove it. Of course, you can't completely remove it without unbolting the seat belt under the seat, but you won't need to do that for what you are doing.

A quick question as I have a 123 with a PO relaced rear window and the heater grid is on the inside of the window not laminated inside the glass. Do all of the origional equipment rear windows have the heater grid laminateg between the glass or dose my car have an after market window in the rear?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I disagree. I think it is just as common for the ground wire under the side panel to come off. That's what happen to me a few times. If your window looks good (nothing obvious) then it may just be a bad ground.

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1982 300SD
1967 250S
...what was I thinking......

Only the coupes have the grid laminated in the glass. The sedans have the traditional style (grid on inside of the window). The coupe grid is very fine and can barely be seen. I guess this was to give the car a sporty look.

Thanks!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

First I want to thank everyone who helped with my defrost problem.
What I found was, at the rear of the pillar trim was what appeared to be a
clip that held the trim on. This is in reality the connection to the heating element, corroded of coarse. There was power to the clips (driver side hot passenger side ground) After cleaning the connections I now have current flow, about 6 volts after the heating element. I ass-u-me that this is due to the resistance of the heating element. Now if it would just get cold enough to test the defrost. Oh yeah the clips go in between the window and the seal, just pushed in!

Jon J
1981 240D

Your problem may be solved but for othere I wish to add this information as to where the relay for the rear windowo defroster is. It is under the instrument cluster:

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel