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#16
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It isn't a real lengthy or labor intensive project to undertake......
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#17
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Quote:
I'll wait till I feel better and then might pull it/solder it. I did successfully repair the climate control in our 300D a few weeks ago by re-soldering some cracked solder points. I was quite happy.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#18
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We used the ghetto lights for our 240D cluster for many months and they work fine. I would suggest placing them at the top of the cluster pointing down.
John
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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA) 2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion 1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold 2006 E320 CDI |
#19
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Yep. I misread your post and was fresh from replacing all the bulbs behind my CCU.
Spider bulb is the same as the other instrument lights for that area. I found it wasn't all that hard to replace. And I sure love having my gear selector panel illuminated. I had to twist, twist, twist my rheostat knob about a zillion times before I got any light (about half brightness now). Don't give up, maybe it'll come back for you.
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____________ 1998 E300 +310,000K1996 E300 +460,000K |
#20
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On the later W126's they may have changed some things, but a lot of the switch's are fiber optic. The window switch's are not.
I don't remember exactly whats light by what, I havn't been back their in a long time. Pulling the wood panal down is a bit scary!
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#21
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One more idea
Quote:
Perhaps you have a fuse there as well. |
#22
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Last night while driving I got frustrated with my lack of lights and began rapidly turning the rheostat knob the full swath dozens of times (I had done this before....but wanted to try again)....after a few minutes of doing that I suddenly had lights! Poof! Problem solved...for now. When its warm out I will probably solder it though.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#23
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I just ran into this problem last night on my car . #1 fuse is OK. I could not find a "sweet spot " rheostat adjustment . Anything else that I can check before pulling the cluster ? Also any tips cluster R/R ( 1985 300SD ) are appreciated .
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#24
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On my 1980 300sd, it's the #3 fuse. Had this very problem this week after doing some work in the cluster. Put it all back together and had no interior lights except the idiot lights, no radio, no hazard functionality. Checked and re-checked everything, wiggled the rheostat, got mad, blew steam out my ears, then pulled the #3 fuse for a REALLY close look and sure enough, it had a hairline crack. Replaced it and all is well.
So -- #3 fuse or rheostat.
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1980 300SD 220,xxx somewhere, nc |
#25
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Jump the rheostat, or go to a pick & pull and get another. Only takes a minute to pop out the cluster, and you can probably make the switch without disconnecting anything.
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1984 MB 300SD Turbo |
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