Coolant hose in the way of Oil Filter Housing

[mytimeyet]

I think I've changed the oil enough times to figure out that there MUST be something not right with the way one of the coolant hoses is routed around the oil filter housing on my 85 300dt.
The last 3 times I have managed to break the vacuum connectors while wrestling the cover back on the housing around this silly hose. Of course today it was even better, the O-Ring fell off inside the housing as well so there was a gusher upon startup
Then spending the next couple of hours waiting for epoxy to harden on the "repaired" vacuum connector/connectors...
I think my wife is starting to doubt me when I tell her its only a 20 minute job to change the oil and filter!
Am I alone here or is this a common issue? Any hints on making this any easier?
Gee this forum allows only small pictures...

[TheDon]

Mine is the same.. We questioned this today when doing the waterpump

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by TheDon

Mine is the same.. We questioned this today when doing the waterpump

That's quite interesting.

The SD has no such setup. There is a short rubber hose that makes a very quick 90 degree turn right adjacent to the head. This hose is ideal for flushing on that vehicle.

[rrgrassi]

Mine is the same way. I rigged up a coat hanger to hold the hose back to allow clearance of the oil filter assy top. I prefer to break vacuum lines by having a wrench slip. Much better that way since you get to find out when starting the car, and not being able to shut it down or lock the doors, etc. Snapping the hard line to the ALDA is even more fun, especially finding that out when you leave your low MPH neighbor hood and have to hit highway speeds immediately.

Been there do that still...

I just push mine out of the way.

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

I just push mine out of the way.

Same here, I changed mine today, That hose is just in a PITA spot so you have to push it out of the way to lift the filter cover. You do need to be more careful of the vacuum lines, once the cover gets past the hose you need to gently move the vacuum line out of the way. I normally drain mine hot and loosen the filter cover, then let it sit for a while and completely drain (also cool down a bit). That gets the maximum amount of old oil out while minimizing the burns from the filter cover and heater hose. Make sure the new o-ring is in place and be careful not to over-tighten the filter bolts, breaking the stud inside the filter housing is a real PITA.

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

That's quite interesting.

The SD has no such setup. There is a short rubber hose that makes a very quick 90 degree turn right adjacent to the head. This hose is ideal for flushing on that vehicle.

Yup, I think it's just a W123 thing.

[mytimeyet]

Ah, I like the coat hanger suggestion! I will have to try that in a few months. Or like Brian suggested, its also time to flush out the green stuff so maybe the next time I will remove the hose and flush then change the filter while the hose is out of the way. I try the gentle way first, but after several attempts to press the hose and cover at the same time (where is that 3rd and 4th hand?) I end up half climbing into the engine bay and knocking all kinds of vacuum lines loose. Each time I have tried re-routing & removing some of the lines but I guess I still get clumbsy... (No EGR lines!) Broke the overflow on the radiator the same way while fixing the alternator bracket the PO had apparently tried to adjust without loosining the bolts....

cheers

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by Craig

I normally drain mine hot and loosen the filter cover, then let it sit for a while and completely drain (also cool down a bit).

This is where I differ from you fellows.

I drain it cold.

Why screw around with a hot engine and risk burning yourself on the cap or the drain plug?

I remove the drain plug and pop the cap and let it sit overnight. I also crack the lower cooler fitting.

I can assure you that I get more oil out of the engine than any of the "hot changers".

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

This is where I differ from you fellows.

I drain it cold.

That will work too, but I usually want to get it done all at once. My way takes about an hour, total It probably leaves a little dirty oil in the engine, but I do 5K changes anyway. Also, I'm a little paranoid about the the oil cooler connection.

[blackestate]

What is the part number for this hose on the 300sd. Can I just use a normal hose?

[AdvisorGuy]

I just use the vacuum tank here at work. Don't even have to get under the car...

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by mytimeyet

I think I've changed the oil enough times to figure out that there MUST be something not right with the way one of the coolant hoses is routed around the oil filter housing on my 85 300dt.
The last 3 times I have managed to break the vacuum connectors while wrestling the cover back on the housing around this silly hose. Of course today it was even better, the O-Ring fell off inside the housing as well so there was a gusher upon startup
Then spending the next couple of hours waiting for epoxy to harden on the "repaired" vacuum connector/connectors...
I think my wife is starting to doubt me when I tell her its only a 20 minute job to change the oil and filter!
Am I alone here or is this a common issue? Any hints on making this any easier?
Gee this forum allows only small pictures...

Maybe it is possible to replace it with a more flexible silicone hose; one that has one 90 degree bend already molded in it to take care of the port by the head. I would still be in the way but would move out of the way easier.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Why screw around with a hot engine and risk burning yourself on the cap or the drain plug?

The high school dropouts at the quick lube places do it all day long. I figure if they are smart enough to pull it off, I am too!!!

The way I see it, about the only thing that gets hot enough to cause any real injury is the exhaust system. And it cools off pretty quick.

[toomany MBZ]

I've changed oil countless times on a 123, the hose does not need to be moved very far. When positioning the cap, get one stud lined up, twist to line up the other.