How do I stop this from hapenning again? W210 Broken plug syndrome - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

babymog · #16 02-26-2008, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Have you ever checked them for accuracy? I never owned one.........so, I have no experience.

I have never checked mine. I understand that they yield (elastic) at the specified torque, so an impact will simply bounce against he spring once the proper torque is met. I bought mine after having a set of tires mounted by a truck mechanic (on a coach), using his 1" drive impact, I asked him what torque he was using, he replied "tight is tight, too tight is broke". He broke three studs and cost me about $300. From that point on I had tire service use my torque stick, no future problems, and I torque them by hand (50# torque wrench on an X-12 reduction wrench) otherwise.

I don't think I'd use one for installing something like a glow-plug, but your suggestion to use one to limit the torque of an impact extracting it is IMO better than counting on the impact wrench's limit.

I consider the torque-stick to be more of a safety than an accurate instrument for installing threaded fasteners. Torque-wrenches still work better for me, perhaps I'm old-fashioned there.

Brian Carlton · #17 02-26-2008, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

I have never checked mine. I understand that they yield (elastic) at the specified torque, so an impact will simply bounce against he spring once the proper torque is met. I bought mine after having a set of tires mounted by a truck mechanic (on a coach), using his 1" drive impact, I asked him what torque he was using, he replied "tight is tight, too tight is broke". He broke three studs and cost me about $300. From that point on I had tire service use my torque stick, no future problems, and I torque them by hand (50# torque wrench on an X-12 reduction wrench) otherwise.

I don't think I'd use one for installing something like a glow-plug, but your suggestion to use one to limit the torque of an impact extracting it is IMO better than counting on the impact wrench's limit.

I consider the torque-stick to be more of a safety than an accurate instrument for installing threaded fasteners. Torque-wrenches still work better for me, perhaps I'm old-fashioned there.

Using a torque wrench is a task that is totally foreign to most mechanics. Their "Kentucky torque" method works fine for most fasteners..........until it doesn't.

aklim · #18 02-26-2008, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Their "Kentucky torque" method works fine for most fasteners..........until it doesn't.

As opposed to what? The German method "Guten Tite"?

pimpernell · #19 02-26-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muleears

What is the conventional wisdom? Should I coat them with anti-seize everywhere except the tip? What kind of anti-seize? Should I remove them every 6 months, ream the holes, re-anti-seize and reinstall? I don't want to go through this again in 50K miles when these plugs go out. I would gladly yank the IM and pull the plugs every 6 mo. if it would solve the problem. Any thoughts anyone?

This link provides a lot of useful information. As for the use of anti-seize, the shop manual makes no reference to using any. Also, I have read that if it is used, it must be a nickel based anti-seize, and not the more common copper based one. The Beru web site has additional information in regards to fitting their plugs which can help you decide the best course of action to take.

http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2066

Diesel911 · #20 02-26-2008, 12:08 PM

The glow plugs stick in 2 places or both at the same time. Never-seeze type products can help in the thread area but to prevent them from being trapped by carbon I think you need to keep the fuel injectors in top shape (of course the GP holes should be cleaned some how when the GPs are out). If your injectors (and air filter) are working perfectly there should be less carbon = less chance to trap your glow plugs.
I think removing the GPs every 6 months might be excessive but would alleviate the problem of them becoming stuck. If I had one of these type of cars I think 1 time a year just before winter would be a good time.