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Contact the below site and see if they can find a local dealer for you: http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/ Here is one I guess would ship to you: http://www.baldwinfiltersrus.com/ |
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I forgot to mention there has been and still is several other Bypass Filter Companies besides Frantz that use Toilet Paper or Paper Towels as the Element and they do not fall apart.
And, if a person is in doubt they can simply buy the Elements that each company provides. Even if you buy the Elements they are going to cost a lot less then the $30 to $40 something the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter cost. Below is a pic of a used Toilet Paper Element; looks pretty intact to me. |
OK So should I start a thread on group buys for the Baldwin and Frantz? :D
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I've always been impressed by this filter: Bypass Oil Filter System : FS-2500
They are kinda spendy, but it appears to work pretty well. The 3rd party testing appears to be impressive, although I'd like more information on exactly how it was done (e.g. grade of oil, how soot was introduced, how they measured "minutes", test setup, etc.), but taking it at face value, it seems pretty good. It also looks like they have been around for awhile, with good testimonials. Sincerely, Packman |
There is actually even quite a few very High End Bypass Oil Filters or systems.
The Government is supposed to be useing some of this company's filters. <Keep It Clean with Puradyn> In My own case I picked a Filter that is used for commercial purposes so I expect that the filtration level is well established. It is a 0.05 nominal Micron Filter and costs around $2.60 each when I bought a Case of them. The nominal Micron rating is not as good as the absolute rating but I just felt that spending $40 on a Filter was not for Me but I wanted better filtration so I compromised. I am not sure what type of testing has been done on the Toilet Paper/Paper Towel Types but one of the Companies; Gulf Coast sells larger models that are used on Big Rig Diesels and large Hydraulic equipment. The Companies like Pepsi that used their Filters do their own tests. |
after much looking...reading and thinking
I decided to go with a Frantz. Got an old one off Ebay, been polishing and making it look nice... Deborah at WeFilterIt.com has been very helpful with respect to making sure I got all the right seals and assisting with install knowledge.
Seems easiest to T off the sending unit (cleaner looking install, no drilling, totally removable later) and I do want to put the return into the valve cover AND the IP, my concern with routing it to the IP is that if the filter clogs, the IP starves...maybe later after I've had a chance to see how it runs. I'm in the middle of a rebuilt, which started with the AMSOIL motor flush and will finish with the car being filled with AMSOIL HD oil. I'm going to keep running STP stock filters for now and get the Frantz on the car as soon as I can locate the fittings and have the hoses made. Pics to come...Salute |
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Nice job on the filters. I tend to be very conservative on oil system modification.
The only four stroke engine that I ever blew the bottom end out of was because the line to the oil gauge that I installed, cracked, puking almost all of the oil out before I caught it. The last time I had oiling problems was not that serious but it occurred when a reinforced rubber line on the tractor blew. It would be good if you could get a farm equipment dealer to cut and make you some nice hydraulic hose with swedged on fittings. It isn't expensive and they will do it while you wait. |
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The Oil Pressure line to the Fuel Injection Pump and the Oil Pressure Gauge line are made of TECALAN which is not sold here. The Stock Transmission and Oil Cooler Hoses have been know to leak to the destruction of the Trans or Engine but that is because they were Old. I have also seen Hoses with the Exterior Steel Braided Hoses leak and even the Hoses with braided Steel inside of the Hose Walls leak. I have seen Metal Tubes crack and leak. I have seen new Oil and Hydraulic Hoses with crimped collars leak around the Collar. Any area where a Hose is some what enclosed and the Hose is exposed to inside or outside heat decreases the Hose life. Actually Heat decreases the Hoses life no matter what. I have concluded from most of the above that the best way to decrease the chance of a serious leak are inspections and replacement before they get too old. |
PM sent.
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Yep, you really have to keep an eye on hoses, but it's just standard maintenance to inspect hoses. In the case of add-on hoses like you have with an aftermarket oil bypass system, the biggest thing to be worried about is probably hose routing. Keep them from rubbing and vibrating when they are installed.
Back when I was worked with a company that was importing bypass filters from Germany, I handled a lot of installation questions for them, and that was my usually my biggest installation concern. You can have the best hoses and fittings in the world, but if you route them poorly, you'll have problems. I'll be installing the Trabold bypass filter from my old Saturn on my 300D soon, and figure I'll just tap right in to the top of the filter housing with a banjo bolt. I only wish I could come up with a way to hang the filter on the motor itself, as that would relieve a lot of the hose shaking that will occur from mounting it remotely in the engine bay, which would translate to longer hose life and less chance of leaks. |
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Here is the site if someone wants to look: Trabold LC | Never Change Oil By the way I think the "Never Change Oil" Ad Line is poor advertising. A better line would be extended Oil changes. The Oil in Diesel Engines simply gets more contaminated than Gasser Oil does and the Engine Repair cost way more. In My opinion at some point the Oil needs to be changes. The Hose I used for the Bypass Oil Filter I believe was 1/4" ID Good/Year Slip Filt hose. If I remember correctly it has a working pressure of 300 psi. The Highest Oil Pressure on My Mercedes is 97 psi. If I was concerned about Hose issues it is pretty cheap just to change the Hose let us say everh 5 Years. |
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The Trabold Bypass Filter seems to be another Paper Element type Filter where the Paper is wound like Toilet Paper.
Less expensive is a Filter one our our Members is using made by Motor Guard. At one time Motor Guard competed with the Frantz Oil Cleaner/Filter but the Guy who made that got tired of people/Mechanics critisizing it and He stopped marketing it as and Oil Filter and sells still sells them but as Air/Oil Filters for Plasma type Welding equipment. Presently the Filter Housing by itself costs about $63-$75 if you do some shopping. The kits cost more because they come with 2 Motor Guard Elements. The M-30 is the Housing with 1/4 inch Pipe thread inlet and outlet holes. The do not market bypass Oil Filter kits with Hoses and Fittings like the used to. In the past people used Toilet Paper as the Filter Element but the Company sells their own Elements. From left to right the first 2 pics are of Vintage Motor Guard stuff and the last pic of the Black anodized one is what it looks like now. |
Yes, I use the real Trabold elements. There really isn't a way to substitute anything else in their place. Besides that, they were ridiculously cost-effective in both the gassers that I personally oversaw their use in, lasting about 60k miles before they stopped filtering well. A 617 being the soot factory that it is will plug them up faster, but they should still do pretty well.
For the record, I always thought it was insane to claim that their filters would eliminate all oil changes entirely, and fought hard for them not to push that claim here in the states. I do have to admit that under certain circumstances some seriously high change intervals are possible, but can't advise getting too crazy with extended use unless samples are routinely taken. I have seen some impressive data though, and I have also personally disassembled an engine which went 80k without an oil change using one of their filters coupled with premium synthetic oil. ( a defective injector damaged a piston, but the wear surfaces were all perfect.) |
Incidentally, I use a MotorGuard on my shop air lines. It works fantastic at the end of 25' of copper line with a drain leg. It catches all of the water and oil that make it through the line, and I've never had trouble spraying paint because of it. I can see it working very well as a bypass oil filter.
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The used Frantz Oil Filters show up more on eBay and it is hard to buy one fore less than $70. Functionally the Motor Gurads do the same thing and can be had new for about the same price. What I find interesting is even though the no longer market the Motor Guard Filters as Oill Filters they did not change the name to reflect the Air Line Filter use. |
The only thing I see about the current motorguards sold as air filters that might pose a problem are the plastic bits inside. Maybe they would hold up okay, but it's the only questionable part of using one in my mind.
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I like the look of the Frantz for my 82...looks slightly before era...but it's robust, effective (supposedly, tests will tell) and the elements are cheap. Also I'll say while I can't annotate it, that I did read a board post (not here) from a fella who said he scrapped his raycor after the Frantz showed cleaner oil on the lab tests he had run. I acutally dont care to jack around with making my car a test bunny...plus my odometer is currently broken...so it going on the car asap, hopefully to co-incide with the final of this head / manifold build I'm in the middle of :)
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I ask because Racor has Spin-on Filters and have also put their name on another company's Bypass Oil Filter made by Oil Guard. It uses a fat String Wound Filter Element (the Element ie wrapped with string). |
No, just that they were 30something dollars each.
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At the top of that long Tube is a about 1/16" hole drilled into the side of the Tube; is that open? |
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I believe the centrifuge uses the Oil Pressure to turn itself a long with Oil Pressure you need to have goodvolume/flow of Oil. The 1/16" hole it the center tube is just fine for a Bypass Oil Filter that uses an Filter Element but not enough volume/flow of Oil will go through that 1/16" hole to operate the Centrifuge. |
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pictures 29 =oil return to IP...30 = oil pressure port.. 31=filter housing..Installation not ideal but works as it should. Considering other locations.. Now takes 10 qts. of oil....Baldwin P-102 standard filter. Can quickly be restored to stock. |
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T-fitting, purchased on Ebay from UK...M12X1.5 male and female with 1/8" NPT...the 90* fitting is 1/8" to #4 JIC.. The filter in and out are both M12X1.5 to #6 JIC 1/4" ID hydraulic hose Thanks again for all the help you gave me with this project |
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The Bypass Section of the Stock Oil Filter has nothing to do with the Bypass Valve that is built into the Oil Filter Housing. The normal pressurized Oil (the Full Flow section of the Oil Filter gets Oil from the same area) on the out side of the Filter goes through the bypass Section of the Oil Filter and through an about 1/16" hole at the top of that Tube that goes down the Middle of the Oil Filter Cap. You can see that Hole when You pull off the Cap during an Oil Filter Change. The Oil continues down the Tube and goe by a Spring Loaded Check Valve that is inside the lower end of that Tube and from there the Oil goes Back to the Oil Pan. |
[QUOTE=Diesel911;3102811]How about some more details on the Fitting used for the Oil Pressure Gauge and the Oil supply to the filter.[/QUOT
IDLE OIL PRESSURE NOW SLIGHTLY ABOVE 2 AT OPERATING TEMP. I ASSUME BECAUSE OF THE EXTRA 2 QUARTS OF OIL AND COOLER OIL |
Thanks for all the info guys, an enjoyable read!
Dave:book: |
Sorry for not having read the whole thread, but I recently bought some 2 micron (absolute) spin on filters for around $10 each ($15 each including shipping).
CIM250E02-70819 Cim-Tek 200 Series Fuel Filters Cim-Tek 200 Series Fuel Filters - 250E-02 70819 They are fuel filters (diesel & gasoline) but should work fine for motor oil. -Jim |
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On My own Engine I got about 97 psi max. Then there is the Heat. The Oil can get over 200 degrees F. If the adhesive inside of the Fuel Filter that holds the Element together melts that is a bad thing. If you use them as Oil Filters please let us know how it turns out for you. |
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110psi! Heck, the hydraulic filters I have are only rated to 50psi! Jim |
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