Bypass Oil Filter Setup, 617.952
 

I became only slightly interested in installing a Bypass Oil Filter on my car after reading a thread by one of the members. But my real motivation to finally do something about it came from this and another thread concerning the bypass section of the stock Mercedes oil filter and its being filled with raw cotton as it come off of the plant still having plant debris, dirt and on occasions bugs mixed in with the cotton. On top of this none of the companies that use this type of filter media in their filters can tell you how well the upper bypass part of their filters preform while the can tell you how well the full flow part performs. You can read through that thread if you want more:OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/104768-oil-filters-one-buy.html

My buying the filters and other supplies got ahead of my research on the stuff I needed. Due to my ignorance of filter rating systems I ask the Baldwin company “what is the lowest micron rating on your B50 filter” and was told 2 microns. As I would find out after I ordered the filters (I ordered B164 filters ; the longer version of the B50) this is not exactly the case. The filter has a 2 micron nominal rating and a 15 micron absolute rating.
A quote from an article: “A filter is considered nominally efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size. In other words, a filter that will consistently remove 50% of particles 20 microns or larger is nominally efficient at 20 microns.
A filter is considered to achieve absolute filtration efficiency at a certain micron level if it can remove 98.7% of particles that size. So, if a filter can remove 98.7% of particles 20 microns or larger, it achieves absolute efficiency at that micron level.”
The site the quote came from: http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change-7.htm
So it appears that the Baldwin B164 filters I bought can remove 50% of the particles down to 2 microns in the nominally efficient category and >98% of the 15 micron particles.
For my particular installation I may get better overall particle filtration as the oil passes through the bypass section of the stock filter before it goes into the B164 filter and is being filtered by 2 bypass filters.
To save money I made my own filter head/mount at a cost of $5 for the 3/16” metal plate (enough for 3 filter heads) and 52 cents for the 5/6-18x1 inch bolt. (The correct Baldwin filter head/mount OB1305 cost $27-30 + shipping.)
The brass fittings I bought at OSH hardware and I am using ¼ inch fuel hose until I can order some hydraulic/oil cooler hose at a later date.
I tapped into the bypass oil that goes through the center stem of the oil filter cap and pressurized oil goes from there into the B164 oil filter.
I could not find a decent place to mount the filter head so I decided to bolt a Grape Fruit Juice can in front of the fender well (with foam padding) and just drop the filter into it.
I decided to drain the oil back into the crankcase by way of the dip stick tube using a bent 3/8 aluminum tubing and a 3/8 fuel line rubber sleeve to seal it. See Pic:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...el911/ZTUB.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...sel911/ZU8.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...sel911/ZU9.jpg

I decided to paint the Grape Fruit Juice can and More Pics:
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...el911/ZU10.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...el911/ZU11.jpg

What size restriction orifice did you use?

Here is my bypass filter. Amsoil EaBP90 with a 2 micron absolute rating.

Boy you are fast; I just posted this.
How about letting me know if the Amsoil filter has 5/8-18 threads; if so I can change the filter later.
Since I am tapped into the top of the hollow stem (the one that you plugged for use with the Wix oil filter) on the stock oil filter cap I am using the restricted orifice that is already present in the stem and also the filter itself has its own restricted orifice that can be seen in one of the photos. Also later when my Valve Cover is off for some other reason I may tap it and route the return to drip oil onto the timing chain.

Yes, I saw that after you updated your first post,

The EaBP90 uses 1"x16 threads. The filter itself is unrestricted so I had to use a 1/16" orifice in the filter base outlet.

Thanks for the info; I have seen that size filter base on Ebay often or if my base is wide enough I could make 1-1/16 adapter to fit over the 5/8-18 theads of the one I have.

Sorry, that should have been 1"x16 threads.

Thanks for the update.

*Flame Suit on* The real question here is whether or not this will actually extend engine life. Many people on the forum have nearly 400k on the "average" filter system stock to the car....I just wonder if it is worth all the work? How much oil actually passes through that bypass system? What is the flow rate?

heck, anything that reduces soot on these motors is worth it IMHO... the only reason these motors last so long with this much soot is the huge 8 QT reserve of oil. I bet you could get a full million miles out of a 617 without a rebuild or timing chain repair if a REAL bypass filter was installed.

Hmm, thats probably true. I'd do it on my engine if it did not already have so much blowby. I already use the best filters and excellent oil with a fast change rate....so it should still last me a long time.

The following quotes are from from this article: http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change-7.htm "First of all, the statistics previously mentioned regarding engine wear haven't changed. 60% of all engine wear is caused by particles between 5 and 20 microns. Unfortunately, most oil filters on the market today are lucky to remove even a small percentage of particles under 30 to 40 microns. This, again, leaves most of the harmful debris in your oil."

If this is true the life of the engine should be extended. Otherwise it is sort of like quitting smoking. You cannot repair damage/wear already done by putting in a bypass filter.
Stock full flow filters seem to be in the 20-30 micron range. You will have to ask the company if that is nominal or absolute rating as there is a big differance. "A filter is considered nominally efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size. In other words, a filter that will consistently remove 50% of particles 20 microns or larger is nominally efficient at 20 microns."
The amount of oil (in my case the oil passes throught the bypass section of the stock filter and also through the add on bypass filter) going through my system is the same as the amount that would normaly only pass through the buy pass section of the stock oil filter as the oil passes through the same orfice.

By the way neither the work or the expense was that much. If I had bought the filter base at $30; the filter, hose and fittings total less than $50.
Someone ask about the oil flow I do not know sepcifically but eventually all of the engine oil will pass through and by filtered by them Bypass filter.
Although with a better filter; people are using bypass filters to get more miles before an oil change out of their oil. Peoople using synthetic oil like to do this due to the expense of the synthetic oil.

"and I am using ¼ inch fuel hose until I can order some hydraulic/oil cooler hose at a later date."


You should be able to find tranny cooler line in that size at any decent parts house. this is the only thing I would be concerned with.

what is the sensor for that is tapped into your OE filter??

The reason many of the manufacturers don't have a lot of concern about the bypass section as it rarely comes into play. If the full flow part becomes completely clogged, usually by negligence, then the oil goes through the bypass section in order to prevent oil starvation in the engine. ;)

However, if you just want to do an even finer filtration of your oil, then another filter system will do the trick.

You are describing a bypass valve, not a bypass filter. The bypass section of the filter is always working.

Neither the Kragens or Autozone near me have oil cooler hose (except in an oil cooler kit); I will replace it when I get around to it.
The sensor on the oil filter cap is an oil pressure sensor; part of my low oil pressure alarm. There is a thread on it I started at the beginning of last week.

Forced Induction already answered part of this; but what I would like to say is that If you manufacture an oil filter you ought to know how well it can filter. I am talking about quality control. How do you check the filters you make to see if you are putting out good quality if you do not have
any sort of standard that they have to perform to?

Generally reputable manufacturers will do selective analysis of a product on their production line from time to time as well as extensive tests of the prototype prior to putting it into production. So its likely it will perform to its intended applications.

I am sure there are standards that filters have to meet too....at least I hope there are. You can always analyze them yourself too to make sure they are working properly. But that could be expensive. $$$

I am describing a bypass valve and some "bypass filters".
Some full flow oil filter designs have a bypass valve, and anti-flowback valve, integral to the filter and when the filter becomes clogged, it allows unfiltered oil to prevent oil starvation of the engine.
Some full flow oil filter designs have a bypass valve on the engine to accomplish the same concept. This design also has an anti-flowback valve located on the engine.Since I did not see either a bypass valve or anti-flowback valve on the filter cartridge, I suspected the latter.

Some two-stage or bypass filters have a "fine" full-flow and an "ultra-fine" bypass section. Some have a "fine" full-flow and "coarse" bypass so that there is at least some filtration of the oil rather than un-filtered. Given what I see in the filters, I suspected the latter in this case also.

Now I haven't studied the oil system on this car but maybe someone has. You tell me.............

On the oil filter in my car there is a lower full flow portion made of pleated paper media; the companies can and have told the micron ratings on that portion of the filter. They are speechless on the rating of the upper bypass portion of the filter; I think it is because the do not know the performance of this part of the filter.
While I could have an oil analysis done on the crankcase oil I have no way of testing the performance of each of the separate parts of the filter by themselves without building some sort of test bench; which I do not plan to do.

I believe in the massive oil filter thread it was found that the typical upper bypass section of the stock filter ranges from 15 micron (Baldwin dual pleated paper style) to 25-30 micron for the packed cotton material. Once I run out of Fram filters I am going to switch to the Baldwin filters and call it good enough.

I cannot answer for Forced Induction or on other filter setups but I am the best qualified to answer for my setup.
If the extra filter I installed becomes plugged up the oil flow from the oil pump will continue to go through the full flow part of the lower portion of the stock filter and continue to go through the upper portion of the stock filter (the bypss portion of the filter) through the orfice in the hollow stem that is attached to the filter cap and down passed the stem check valve and into the crankcase just as it would if I had not installed my extra filter.

The oil that goes through the bypass filter goes through the very small restriction orifice and straight back to the oil pan.

UPDATE- I was getting a little oil seepage around the top of the dip stick tube. I added a piece of 5/8 heater hose. One clamp clamps it to the dipstick tube the other clamp clamps it to the 3/ rubber hose with the 3/8 tubing going through it.
I was at the junk yard today and picked up another valve cover oil filler cap and will try drilling a hole through that to relocate the return oil from the dipstick tube to that cap.
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...el911/ZWZZ.jpg

Update.
11-04-2010 I removed the Bypass Oil Filter set up that I installed at the beginning of this thread and replaced with a homemade Filter Housing that uses a 0.5 Nominal Micron cotton string wound Filter Element.
(The reason for making my own housing is a real one for that type of Filter element is quite expensive. However, once you have a Housing the Filter Elements cost about $3 each when you buy a case of 12.)

I also relocated the Bypass Filter Oil Return line from the Dipstick Tube to a tube that I drilled and mounted in to the Bolt that is item #94 in the drawing of the Engine.

1 pic shows the housing and Element and the other shows where I mounted it.

The last 2 pics show what the Filter looked like after being used for 1 year with an 1 Oil Change during that time but the Bypass Filter Element not changed till today.

In the last pic on the right you can see some thing has built up on the out side of the Filter element showing that the Filter is working.

That build up is soot !! I have seen it on other non MB applications. That filter sock must be doing a good job !!!

I thought it was soot but did not want to comment on that because everyone seems to want a lab test.
Also 0.5 nominal Microns is not as good as 0.5 Absolute Mircons but then then at the time I bought the Filters you could get about 10 of the String Wound Filters for the price of one Amsoil Bypass Filter.

More interesting is that the way my system is set up the Oil is first filtered through the bypass section of the stock Oil Filter and then goes in to my add on Byass Oil Filter.
So what you see on the add on Bypass Oil Filter is what was not filtered by the bypass section of the Stock Oil Filter (a Bosch one).

I have a feeling that this Filter works better than that because it is about 10 inches long so it has a large surface area and the flow through it must be extremely slow.

Also that is not a Sock. It is Cotton String Wound around a Steel Tube with holes in it.

The String is overlapped until there is about 1/2" of thickness around the Tube.

If you do an search for String Wound Filter you will find all kinds of them depending on the application you have in mind.

These filters are used in Industry and are made to be comparatively cheap to replace compared to their performance.
However, the real Filter Housing for these type of Filters is about $150; but, you can use many types of Filters in the same Housing.

Sadly my Oil still looks black even with better filtration.

Great job diesel911. Where can a get your setup to run the string filter? Thanks for sharing.

Happy motoring,
Dave

The Oil Filter Housing for the String type Filters is the problem.

String Type Filters are used in industrial settings and the Filters are cheap compared to let us say an Amsoil Bypass Filter. However, the Filter Housings that are made for those filters are around $249 or more.

So, I made the Oil Filter Housing myself out of a section of Exhaust Pipe and cut the 1/2" Steel Plate with Hole Saws.

To say that sounds simple but it ended up being extremely labor intensive.
And, the labor intensive part is sad because I had wanted to be able to make the Oil Filter Housings and sell them as an alternative to the more expensive Bypass Oil Filters that are sold.

But, unless I find an easier/better/faster way to make the Oil Filter Housing I cannot sell them.
Also the way you change the Oil Filter is not suitable for a commercial product.
Because of the above I have not put any more effort in to making some until I can figure out a better way to do that.

So the easiest way to go is to buy a Filter Base to fit the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter and the related Hose and Fittings. On the low end that is about $30; on the High end about $40.

Unfortunately the smallest Amsoil Bypass may cost as much as $32 each. However, when ForcedInduction was a member He said that you will not be changing it often.

When a Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up when you feel the Oil return Hose that Hose will not be hot because there is no longer Oil passing through it.
So you could simply keep your Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter in use until it is plugged.

If you are willing to accept 5 nominal Microns of filtration you could use the Filter I started off using at the beginning of this thread. The Oil Filter used is a Bypass Oil Filter From Carrier Gen Sets. They are arouns $13 each.
5 nominal Microns of filtration is better than the 22 or more nominal mircons of filtration that the stock type Filter has.

The Oil Filter Housing for the String type Filters is the problem.

String Type Filters are used in industrial settings and the Filters are cheap compared to let us say an Amsoil Bypass Filter. However, the Filter Housings that are made for those filters are around $249 or more.

So, I made the Oil Filter Housing myself out of a section of Exhaust Pipe and cut the 1/2" Steel Plate with Hole Saws.

To say that sounds simple but it ended up being extremely labor intensive.
And, the labor intensive part is sad because I had wanted to be able to make the Oil Filter Housings and sell them as an alternative to the more expensive Bypass Oil Filters that are sold.

But, unless I find an easier/better/faster way to make the Oil Filter Housing I cannot sell them.
Also the way you change the Oil Filter is not suitable for a commercial product.
Because of the above I have not put any more effort in to making some until I can figure out a better way to do that.

So the easiest way to go is to buy a Filter Base to fit the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter and the related Hose and Fittings. On the low end that is about $30; on the High end about $40.

Unfortunately the smallest Amsoil Bypass may cost as much as $32 each. However, when ForcedInduction was a member He said that you will not be changing it often.

When a Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up when you feel the Oil return Hose that Hose will not be hot because there is no longer Oil passing through it.
So you could simply keep your Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter in use until it is plugged.

If you are willing to accept 5 nominal Microns of filtration you could use the Filter I started off using at the beginning of this thread. The Oil Filter used is a Bypass Oil Filter From Carrier Gen Sets. They are arouns $13 each.
5 nominal Microns of filtration is better than the 22 or more nominal mircons of filtration that the stock type Filter has.

Diesel911,
I like your filter housing setup. You should keep working on the manufacturing aspect of this until you can make a reasonably priced unit that will still make you a profit. I guess you would have to contract with the Chinese to do that. I would be curious to know more detail about how you built it and the materials you used, but I understand if you don't want to tell everything about it.

I don't like the idea of the oil line coming out of the filter housing lid. Seems cumbersome to me. I came out of the housing itself. The braided stainless bypass line is covered with the foam pipe insulation. The other line is braided stainless to replace the factory plastic oil pressure line. Pics below. And I prefer returning oil to the valve cover, over the timing chain...I think a little extra lube on that is a good thing. As you may know, my filter unit uses the tightly packed TP rolls. The problem I'm starting to have is finding good enough rolls, so I may need to switch to something similar to what you have someday. I appreciate you sharing your setup.

Using the Housing has been suggested. You are the only one I know of who has done it.

What I am finding in general is that people seem shy away from drilling and tapping. And, if someone buggered up the Oil Filter Housing Top/Cap they could easily replace it; not so with the Main Oil Filter Housing.

I could have made removing the Oil Filter Top/Cap less cumbersome by using the fittings in the pics of the correct size. Maybe I will do that at a later date but it has not become an issue with me.

Are you using the Gulf Coast Elements are Toilet Paper?

Below is a pic of a Oil Guard Bypass Oil Filter that uses a String Wound Element. Racor appears to be putting their name on the Oil Guard bypass Filters and selling them.
The other pic is of some Vintage Amsoil Bypass Oil Filters. Not sure what the Elements are made of. It is most likely stacked Discs of Felt but it actually looks like Leather.

What keeps the end caps from leaking?

That is a good question. I was supposed to source out square cross section O-rings but never did.

The first time I put it together I filled the O-ring grooves with Silicon Sealant. I did that because I thought I might have to make some further modifications on it so I needed it to be easy to take apart.

When I changed the Filter I decided to Epoxy the Filter Base with JB Weld but am still using the Silicon Sealant on the Top Cap where I pull out the Filter.
I thought about welding the Base to the Tube but it was clear that it was going to end up for my own personal use and I did not feel like dragging out my Welder.

All of the above seems a little rinky dink but it works and I do not mind doing it.
Like I said in previous posts the Oil Filter Housing is not ready for any sort of commercial sales and it is certainly going to take some major redesign to make it so.

Another issue is that if you take a look at the Filter Element you see that the inner Tube needs extends beyond the Element. That tube needs to go into a groove on both of the end Cams and there has to be enough compression on the Sting part of the Element to seal it.
That took some careful measuring and when the Element is inserted you have to make sure the Tube goes into the groovs (it needs something betgter to guide the Tube into the grooves).

I keep searching eBay for a commercial Filter Housing (they call it a Filter Vessel) so I can see how it is really supposed to be done but so far they are too expensive.

Hey Forced - just curious, when you use a bypass setup does the oil appearance change dramatically or does it still remain quite black and sooty -been wondering about this for some time -thanks

D911, is your string wound filter the same size as the whole house water filters? Would you use a whole house water filter housing if they were the same size?

Thie dimensions are on that pic back in post #28.

The Water Filter Housings I have seen have been Plastic. The Oil gets hotter than Water and the Oil Pressure is also Higher (out her the Water pressure is 60 PSI).
Also I believe the Water Filters have some nice rubbery End Cap on the Element to seal on.

The Material that the Watter Filters and maybe the Plastic Housings are made of is also not compatiable with hot Oil.

Do a search Google for String Wound Filters. There is all kinds and different types of String and some have those end Caps (and the Elements cost more).

Here is a Stainless Steel Water Filter Housing on eBay for $84+$12 shipping. I do not know if the inards match the String Wound Filter; but it does say it is rated for 150psi.
And I think the Cost is a little High if you have to modify it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Filter-Housing-10-stainless-steel-HydroGenics-/190509350979?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5b3e0043

I would like to see one to see what is inside. Perhaps a cheaper used one would show up on eBay some time.
I spent less than $15 in materials to make the Housing I had. In the eBay ad the Seller said the normal price = "WW Grainger for Cuno #SS1, $185 each"

I'm still using Toilet Paper for elements. Hard to beat the price of "Scott 1000" or similar. But, like I mentioned before, I'm having a harder time finding good TP lately. Some are making the center tube bigger as a deception to make more money. If the center tube is too big, it wont seal up and filter like it should.

I don't recommend the "Gulf Coast" filter. The basic design is excellent, but they made it out of plastic, and I can't get the 1/8 pipe fitting(s) on the bottom to fully seal up. I think the plastic expands and contracts with the heat cycle and loosens the pipe seal. It's only seepage but I hate leaks. If they had just made it out of cast aluminum, it would be one of the best filters housings out there.

You Could try at the next Filter Changer removing the Fitting, degreasing both outer and inner Threads and coating the fitting threads with Silicone Sealant.
I also think Copper Kote Gasket gasket sealer would work.

I am not sure this would work or not; but, they have the same types of fittings (harder to find) that have straight Pip Thread on the end. On the Straight Pipe Fittings is a Nut, Washer and O-ring to do the sealing.

The advantage of the Straight Pipe is that it when you are using something like an Elbow it can be turned int the position you need it to be in and you tighten the Nut and it seals.
The tapered Pipe has to be turned in far enough to seal and that may happen in a position you do not want the Eblbow to be in.

Somtimes the Teflon Pipe Sealing Liquid/past works when the Tape does not.

1 pic shows the housing and Element and the other shows where I mounted it.

The last 2 pics show what the Filter looked like after being used for 1 year with an 1 Oil Change during that time but the Bypass Filter Element not changed till today.

In the last pic on the right you can see some thing has built up on the out side of the Filter element showing that the Filter is working.[/QUOTE]

D911, think I'm going to use your idea for a return line, makes perfect reasoning!
That way the return is giving extra lubrication to the chain, some may make it around & back to the top of the engine.

What is the thread & size of that bolt? Did you replace the bolt w a fitting?

Thanks,
Dave

D911, think I'm going to use your idea for a return line, makes perfect reasoning!
That way the return is giving extra lubrication to the chain, some may make it around & back to the top of the engine.

What is the thread & size of that bolt? Did you replace the bolt w a fitting?

Thanks,
Dave[/QUOTE]

Since the time I did mine I found an old thread by one of our Members who used the Plug on the Fuel Injection Pump Governor for the return Oil.
That is easier to do and it is fat enough for a 1/8" pipe threads.
All that nice clean Oil goes inside of the Fuel Injection Pump.

When I did the Bolt on mine I removed it used my Thread Gauge and to find the size and bought another Bolt.
The diameter of the Bolt is too small for a 1/8" pipe tap so I drilled out the Bolt and JB Welded a 1/4 inch Tube in side of it to act as the Nipple.

Can you tell what kind of oil pressure you are getting from the supply lline/fitting you installed on top? If it is anywhere 30-50 psi, that's ideal to turn the centrifuge 3-4K rpm and return the clean via the valve cover. Also, what kind of oil pressure are you reading with the sending unit you installed.

Buy the way I have a different Bypass Oil Filter on there now. See post #26.

I have never checked it but I should get the same Oil pressure as is in the Oil Filter Housing that I tapped into.
On the my Turbo 617 I get a max Oil pressure of 97 psi with the Engine revvved up (I checked that right in the center of the Oil Filter Cap where I drilled into the Cap to tap the Oil for the bypass Oil Filter) and at hot idle I get 1.5 bar so that is around 29 psi.
The Manual claims that the Oil Pressure Relief Valve in the Oil Pump will open at 110 psi. So that is your max possible Oil Pressure.
That is for the Turbo 617s.

So as long as you are not idling on my Engine there is plenty of Oil Pressure to operate the Centrifugal Oil Filter.

At idle I don't know. It could be it would bleed off too much Oil pressure at idle. You won't know until you try.
There is a restricted Fitting in the Bypass Oil Filter setup so that it does not bleed off too much Oil Pressure at idle.

Maybe you need to fabricate a small pressure valve that will open only if the Oil Pressure is over 35 psi. That would simply mean that you Centrifugal Oil filter would not be working at idle speeds but would keep you from bleeding off too much pressure.

I am attempting to duplicate the process of drilling the center of the oil filter cap. How did you manage to drill it our far enough and run a tap deep enough to fully thread the area to accept the fitting.

I thought I put that in the Thread some where. In my case I have a Lathe and put the Cap Tube in the Lathe with the Cap on it and drilled it in the Center.

I was drilling to tap 1/8" pipe threads; no room for 1/4" pipe threads.

I also found out that the Tube going into the Cap is just pressed into the Cap; I removed that to help clean out the Chips from drilling.
You can pull that Tube out; turn the Cap upside Down, center Punch where you want the drill to go; use a small drill as a pilot Drill so you can drill the hole in the Center an then follow that with the proper sized Tap Drill for 1/8" pipe threads.

But, actually you can also drill anywhere on the Cap between the Casting Webs. Again better to drill from the inside to the out side.
If you look in the on pic you can see I drilled the spot my Oil Pressure Alarm Sending Unit on another part of the Cap.

You could also drill into the Housing itself but if you make a mistake you would need to change the whole Oil Filter Housing or remove it and get it welded.

I'm putting a Frantz bypass on my OM617. Not sure where would be ideal for the return but I'm thinking thru the valve cover to hit the chain would work. In the mean time anyone know where we can get the baldwin's filter? I smell a group buy!

Are you speaking of the Baldwin Filter that replaces the Stock Oil Filter?

Don't use the Bladwin Bypass Filter that I used at the beginning of the Thread. Later in the Thread I explain that it does not filter down fine enough. Towads the end of the thread I changed the Bypass Filter type.

As for where to tap in the return line that is up to you. The Valve cover is a good place; ForcedInduction I believe used that place so it dripped onto the Timing Chain.

Also once you have your Bypass Oil Filter System installed it does not matter so much what stock type Oil filter you use.
You could pic the filter in the below thread with the finest filtration in the Full Flow Section of the filter.
See post #32
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/247597-napa-gold-filters-3.html?highlight=Bosch+Oil+filters

Thank you for your detailed reply!

Yes I was talking about the replacement for the stock filter. Forcedinductions setup is where i got the idea to put the return....all the mechanics love that idea too, even tho one of them tells me the toilet paper will come apart.


As far as the canister, I'll still use the best I can find even with the bypass running. Cleaner oil is better :)