602 hydraulic lifter replacement (300D 2.5T) - DIY? advice needed - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

amg280 · #1 03-17-2008, 10:58 PM

Hello. Ive searched for this but I couldnt find anything too relevant. Alot on the 603 engine however.

My problem is, I have a loud "ticky" lifter that comes and goes, and its very annoying (to me anyways). Sometimes once its warm, it will go away, sometimes not. I really just want to replace all 10 of them and silence the ticks. I know that the camshaft has to come out. Can anyone tell me or point me in the right direction on the steps to do this? Im very mechanical, but is this something that should be left to the pro's? Ive never taken a cam out before. Im eager to tackle new jobs. Are there any special tools that are required. Any insight is GREATLY appreciated. A DIY would be great.

Also, how do you tell if the camshaft should be replaced? Visual inspection or is there a measurement?

Thanks for all the help!

compress ignite · #2 03-18-2008, 01:43 AM

See the PM

2.5Turbo · #3 03-18-2008, 02:28 AM

I'd like some info as well, as I'll be getting ready to do the same on mine this summer. There's one that just won't shut up even on M1

compress ignite · #4 03-18-2008, 08:39 AM

1.'Get the Factory Service Manual (on 2 CDs )
(Mercedes Classic Center,"Google" it or call
1-800-222-0100).You will need it.
2. DIY dooable BUT,You Must Maintain tension on
The timing Chain(and secure the Chain to the
Camshaft Sprocket at the same time)[Hint:
Tie Wraps at least 6 of them.]
3. You must follow the Factory specified R+R
schedule for the "Cam Towers" so that you
DO NOT distort (AND BREAK) the Camshaft.
All the information may be available on this forum,
But the FSM comes in handy forever!
[You're going to loosen the nut securing the Camshaft
Sprocket to the Camshaft,Then wiggle the Camshaft
out Backwards,After removing the Cam Towers,and
removing(thereby slackening...AND resetting)the Chain
Tension(er).]

amg280 · #5 03-18-2008, 09:02 AM

So if im reading this right, the timing chain doesnt move at all? The cam sprocket doesnt get removed from the cam? Do you removed the chain tensioner? I wish someone had pics...excuse my ignorance...

cornblatt · #6 03-18-2008, 12:50 PM

I did this job last fall. It's not too hard - just take your time and be careful.

Here's an approximate set of instructions. I don't guarantee that they are complete so please use common sense if you choose to follow them.

Remove the valve cover.
Slowly turn the engine (using a breaker bar & socket on the crankshaft) to TDC of #1 cylinder (the pointer on the crankshaft should point at the "0T" mark). Don't turn the engine backwards!
Use cable ties, wire, etc. to securely fasten the chain to the sprocket on the end of the camshaft. Also take a paint pen (or something similar) and mark the position of the chain relative to the sprocket, just to be safe.
Loosen (or remove) the timing chain tensioner. See attached drawing for location.
Unscrew the bolt holding the sprocket to the camshaft. You may need to stick a piece of wood or something through the sprocket and brace it against the cylinder head to prevent the engine from turning when you undo the bolt. You don't want to turn the engine when loosening the bolt.
Remove the sprocket and allow the sprocket and chain to dangle there in place.
Pick some sort of reference point and note the orientation of the camshaft (for reinstallation later). If I remember correctly, there should be a groove on the end closest to the front of the car that is facing up.
Remove the camshaft bearing caps as shown in the attached image. This sequence is important and it relies upon previously rotating the engine to TDC as mentioned above.
Remove the camshaft once the bearing caps are off.
The lifters will now just lift out. Some sort of suction cup may help, but I was able to just use my fingers.
The service manual says there's an oil bore you can blow out with compressed air. Apparently you remove a plug (location unknown to me) and blast air through this, which clears out the oil passages leading to the lifters. I couldn't tell where the plug was so I skipped this step without any apparent negative consequences.
Drop the new lifters in. Be sure they're lubricated (mine were spectacularly greasy from the factory so I didn't add any oil).
Reinstall the camshaft in the same position as when you removed it.
Drizzle a small amount of fresh motor oil over the camshaft and lifters to make sure they're lubricated.
Install the bearing caps, in the reverse order from how you removed them. Be careful here again!! The bearing caps are tightened to 25Nm (18.5 ft-lbs).
Put the sprocket back on the camshaft. The hex-head bolt is tightened to 65Nm (48 ft-lbs). If it's a 12-point bolt, then it's tightened to 25Nm+90°.
Reinstall/tighten the chain tensioner, 65Nm (48 ft-lbs).
Once you're certain everything is in place, remove the ties you used to attach the chain to the sprocket.
Clean the gasket and cylinder head surface and reinstall the valve cover (10Nm / 7 ft-lbs).

There are no special tools needed other than a variety of metric sockets and a torque wrench.

babymog · #7 03-27-2008, 02:58 PM

Odd that the 3.0L 603 is excluded, wonder why?

gsxr · #8 03-27-2008, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

Odd that the 3.0L 603 is excluded, wonder why?

You mean from the timing chain TSB? Simple explanation. The 3.0L 603 motor (603.96x) was only shipped to the USA in 1986 and 1987. I believe the TSB is for MBNA only, not worldwide. So only the engines in the USA were affected, from 1990-95, which were the 2.5L (602.962) and 3.5L (OM603.97x).

On second look... the TSB does not specify displacement at all, only engine type (602, 603, 606) and month/year of manufacture.

amg280 · #9 04-02-2008, 11:34 AM

A few pics...

1st: 10 fresh new lifters
2nd: OCD on the zip ties
3rd: Using my magnet to remove the lifters

pdrayton · #10 08-19-2008, 11:01 AM

I replaced some of mine, and like they say, it's not a hard job, you just need to know what you're doing (read the FSM on how to tension and untension the cam) and be careful.

However, putting synthetic oil in for a few thousand miles could well fix the problem too. It did for me, and then I replaced the lifters when it was actually an injector knock! HA! I used Mobil 1.

Hatterasguy · #11 08-19-2008, 02:04 PM

A good synthetic oil will usualy fix the problem. I know it made mine a lot better, but still not silent, so I changed them.

Now that you have new lifters use synthetic to keep them quite.

mouramen · #12 08-19-2008, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

A good synthetic oil will usualy fix the problem. I know it made mine a lot better, but still not silent, so I changed them.

Now that you have new lifters use synthetic to keep them quite.

Yes, I think I'll switch to synthetic or semi-synthetic, but first I've to find solution to my start problem, I'm pretty sure it's IP timing related, the first time I started the car after changing the lifter I heard two loud knocks and I think it was the sound of the chain jumping a tooth or more at the IP "sprocket"... or so I hope...