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#1
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How do you properly remove dash wood?
I found a car in the junk yard with MINT wood on the dash (all of it) and I was wondering HOW you remove it properly without breaking anything...? I'd really like to go back and nab it before a jerk destroys it, its beautiful wood! The piece all across the dash from drivers side door to glove box, the glove box wood, and the far right piece by the passenger side vent. The car is an '87 SDL....anyone know how to remove it?
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#2
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To do it right you are really going to need to pull the dash. It is possible to do it without removing the dash, but be rest assured you will crack the finish.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#3
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Drat....ok....once you remove the dash (I can do this...) then how does the wood come off?
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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If it is the same as an 84 (I would bet it is except for the airbags), you will see little black plastic nuts that attach the wood from the rear. Also, for the left-most wood that extends all the way over the center vents...you will want to tilt the center vents all the way down, and you will see 3 very small screws that go through the center vent assembly and into the wood. And, to top it off, that narrow strip of wood running on top of the center vent assembly is a pretty tight fit. But if the wood is really excellent, then it is worth a try. If you're careful, the pieces will probably come out in good shape.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#5
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Also, if there is no airbag (I don't think all '87 SDLs had them, perhaps none had them), it is easy to remove the glove box wood. Just open it up, remove all of the screws on the back of the door, the handle will fall out of place, and then the wood will come right off.
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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles |
#6
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Dash Condition???
Quote:
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#7
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I sorta injured the dash a bit getting out other stuff.
![]() What is it with that insane air tube under the drivers kick panel? Its anchored in there like Zeus installed it! I could NOT break it out with any tool I had, and I undid every nut/screw I could find. Crazyness! ![]()
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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slide it out.....
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SHUCKS on the dash. Anyone need a Gray one?
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#9
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I like the idea of the air tube they added on the SDL behind the drivers kick panel, nice even heat/cooling to the footwells (not that the early style vent has issues...works fine and much less of a pain) but...its impossible to remove....I wasted 20-25 mins prying/smacking/pulling at it, and it laughed at me!
![]() ![]() ![]() All this went on just because I wanted the headlight switch....so I finally pulled the cluster and did it from above. The wood....if its an epic effort to remove it, I guess I'll give up. I'd really like to replace the left side piece (the biggest one) as mine was water damaged and separated by the drivers side vent, as well as being cracked in a few places....its taken a beating. ![]() ![]()
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#10
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On the W126, it really isn't too bad of a job and you don't need to pull the entire dash. Pull the knee panels, instrument cluster, headlight knob, glove box and the center A/C vent directional vanes. The most difficult area is the key area. I need to get a digital camera as once you see the pieces removed, you will see it is not difficult. Time consuming yes, difficult not at all.
Here are some hints: The corners (near the doors), each side of the steering column and the key area are held with nuts on studs mounted to the backside. The door pieces are held with (4) nuts also. Over the center vents, are (3) #1 phillips screws pointing up and screwed into the bottom edge. The glove box is the easiest with two phillips screws. Take your time and work your way across. The long piece takes the longest but knowing where to access the nuts makes it easier.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#11
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That thing you were fighting with is for crash protection, I guess its to protect your knees from all the sharp bits under the dash.
Beating it's a waste of time its I think its metal or some brutal tough plastic. Its held in with a bunch of bolts, lay down and look you will see them.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#12
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I need a Black one but am not apposed to painting one... you selling? Crack free and what year?
Or why not paint it yourself? |
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