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#1
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So driving home from work today......my Air Conditioner Vent "controls" are acting quite strange (weird).
Unit is off (far right button). Push in the 3rd button, AC air is coming out of the defrost vent ....then within 4-6 seconds, flap changes, and AC air is coming out the Dash Vents. YEAH!!! But wait. Then in another 16-28 seconds, the flap moves and the air is not coming out the Defrost Vents. ![]() OH. And another oddity, if I leave the AC air running coming out of the Defrost Vents.....the air gets HOT. ![]() Any ideas what the issue is? I have spare vacuum pods and my dash has major cracks, so removing the dash does not scare me. I need to fix this before I wear out my right index finger!!! ![]() EDIT --- I took out the HELP!!! part of the original post.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more Last edited by daw_two; 11-30-2008 at 03:17 PM. |
#2
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anyone experienced this?
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#3
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Yes, I experienced this problem when my monovalve went bad. It had a hole in the diaphragm. My problem was heat for 30 seconds then only cold air out of the defrost vents. Turning the car off and then on again started the cycle all over again.
This is what I learned. By the way my car is a 86 300sdl. In 1986 MB redesigned the Push Button climate control unit to have a circuit breaker in it. You see in the systems prior to this when a monovalve or the aux water pump went bad and drew too much current, it would burn the circuit board in the Push Button unit. So in 86 they have a ciircuit breaker that will trip and then the unit goes into default mode, Defroster vents only. I went to the Programa website and downloaded the troubleshooting pages for my specific unit and then using a digital VOM, I tested the various sensors that control the PB unit. I found my monovalve was not in spec. I opened it and found a torn diaphragm. I replaced the monovalve and all is well. By the way I tested these sensors using the plugs in the wiring harness to the PB unit. That involved removing the ashtray, radio, wood panel and the PB unit to disconnect the wiring. Good Luck. I hope it is something simple. John
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John 1986 300sdl 1985 380se |
#4
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Hmmm......
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I picked up some extra vacuum pods out of a 1989 or 90 560SEL --- it was about the only thing left of the dash area. ![]()
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
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![]() OKAY....I got the ACC out of the dash......do the buttons have to come OFF before the circuit board will pull out of the ACC case? I need to be taking some pics. OH --- looks like just one circuit board. The bottom side is exposed when I took off the cover --- there are 2 areas that look brown (overheated). I wonder what is on the other side. Do I need to look at the other side or just look for cracks in the solder joints on the bottom? Thanks a million!!!!
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#7
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It sounds very much like an intermittent connection in the pushbutton controller. If I recall correctly, you have the controller with the circuit boards arranged in an "H" pattern. Over time the solder connections develop cracks where the boards meet and causes very intermittent problems. Resoldering usually cures this.
However, note that the controller changed, I believe in '87 but it might be '86. A search with ACC and your year model might help determine which one you have.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#8
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only one....
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#9
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![]() I bet all the w126 spares I have are for the later years. ![]()
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
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cross linking to another thread
I'm putting a link to this thread:
ac still not working after ac conversion 87 300SDL since there is just so much information in it. I'm convinced that "bumps in the road" are causing the ACC unit to operate intermittedly. Time for a new ACC.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#11
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maybe???
Well....guys; the heat has been flakey since I replaced the ACC, so just tore into the monovalve.
Guess what? The monovalve diaphragm was torn. Got to take the kids out for a ride to see if it works.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#12
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My 81 wagon did that sort of thing ...only slightly took my pushing the buttons as suggestions ...never as commands.... it would wait random times to execute..which might be on the next trip... I could not find an exorcist...so I sold it...
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#13
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Once you said some spots looked brown.... listen to Brian...
Have you seen the FSM manual for that rats nest of vacuum and electrical interactivity ? Just for what you are dealing with at the dash controls...not shared stuff like the evap or blower... just the dash stuff.... I quit counting at 125 pages... and like the other manuals it was translated by a non English as first language person... Be sure all your vacuum system is in good shape, buy a rebuilt CCU from someone trusted.. THEN attempt to get it all working together... |
#14
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already resolved.....
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I've put the thing back in my dash......searching for a reconditioned one. I looked at the hassle of taking off the buttons and that was enough for me. On toward the next issue. These cars are full of adventures. Thanks everyone for the help.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#15
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The one in our 300D was acting odd....so I pulled it out, took it completely apart, soldered anything that looked suspicious, and re-assembled it. Put it back in, and it has worked great ever since. (4 months ago) Disassembly/soldering/reassembly took maybe 40 mins....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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