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#1
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I am resurrecting my 1981 300D's AC and casually decided it was a good time to replace the expansion valve. It was quite snug when coming out, but now I've coming up against a wall in installing the new one: all four fittings just won't line up to thread them on. I can get three to agree (to/from evaporator and from receiver-drier), but the large connection leading to the compressor just doesn't want to play with its friends.
If anyone has been through this before, I'd welcome some advice. Save for the receiver-drier connection, these guys are quite rigid and the tolerances are incredibly close. Thanks. Encouragement alone is welcome! But I'm really looking for the secret sequence of attaching these darn things.
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Erlend 1981 300D 202K daily driver |
#2
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The r/d and compressor connections are attached to hoses; there should be some flexibility in both.
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#3
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There is a tool made for holding it when dealing with that kind of stuff...
It may be spec'd in the AC FSM.... |
#4
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What type of wrench do you use to get those expansion valve lines loose, a crow's foot or a regular one? I bought a new TXvalve for my A/C project I'll do in a few weeks (r134a-->r12) It looks like a PITA seeing it from under the pass. kick panel.
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1980 240d 1999 SL500 |
#5
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If a W123 is giving you troubles installing the expansion valve then you better never buy a W126!
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#6
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Many lines in that category would use what is called a ' line wrench'...
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#7
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Make sure the top two lines are very loose. Then try to thread the bottom two. You'll have more wiggle room that way. Get them all just barely started before tightening any of them down.
Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#8
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Remove your battery and battery tray. Under the tray you will see a clamp holding the 2 ac lines going into the firewall. Loosen the clamp so you can move the lines.
Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#9
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just keep at it. Or enlist help from someone with longer, stronger fingers. Not cutting on you, I had to get a buddy to help me, he got all four started with his fingers, its just the awkward angle and not really being able to see your hands while you're tightening the last two fittings. resist the urge to start bending the metal lines because they appear to be out of alignment, guess how I figured that one out.
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1985 300D Gretchen (Astral Silver) 220k 1983 240D 4-speed Evelyn (Orient Red) 203k TANSTAAFL |
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