Tips for Making Successful Bubble Flares
 

When I spliced the hydraulic lines for my SLS I used a bubble flare tool to create the flares at the fittings. I found it was hard to get an even bubble flare.

After trial and error, I found that lubricating the die made it a little easier.
Filing the end to make sure it was square helped. I also made more consistently good flares by creeping the tool down and backing off slightly until the die touched the clamp.

Does anybody have any tips for making this process easier using a tool like the one in the pic I attached?

I did the same thing (SLS line repair) with the same tool. Trial & error finally got it done for me. Did you order the metric replacement hydraulic line, too? I had to mail-order mine. Good luck!

I had to buy all the stuff online as well. 25' coil of 6mm line, union fittings, flare nuts, and flare tool kit. Searching the internet did not reveal much in the way of tips for successful use.

I ended up with a repaired system that I'm happy with, but I spent way too much time trying to get good flares. There must be a few tricks to make it a smoother process.

I spent way too much time trying to get my replacement line bent and routed properly! Talk about a PITA... I should have just cut out the rotted section and spliced in a repair.

Yeah ... bending the lines without kinking them is an art.:D

http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:...ges/345-dl.jpg
this tool is much better...

I see that that the yoke (sp?) clamps in place. That must be the secret to its success.:cool:

that and the anvil is fluted, and pinned, so it turns with the handle, works MUCH MUCH better.
oh, and sorry, it's a RIDGID double flare tool

That looks nice! I somehow manage to split the end of the line half the time when I'm doing double flares...:(

This tool will work to make new ends for brake lines too right? If so I need to get one....so I am prepared when I need to replace sections of my brake lines in back in case they rust out....

Yes ... just make sure it comes with the bubble flare die for 4.75 mm line.

A proper tool is well into the $400 range.




a proper tool will NOT leave any marks on the tube from clamping (weak spots) The ridged is a nice tool, be sure to get the right double flare dies with it.

Cunfer tubing will make life easier. next time your at a PNP, rip some volvo brake lines off, as they are 90-10 nickel copper lines ("cunfer") Volvo's been using it since the late 70's, it will not rust and will bend and flare amazingly easy. (and I hope I spelled everything right)

I bought a special hand tool for small diameter tube bending. It does a great job without kinking. The trick is learn which way to insert the tube as you can bend in the wrong direction very easily. So instead of bending a "S" shape you can very easily accidentally bend "U".:o
It looks very similar to this tool.
http://www.inlinetube.com/images/tools.8.gif

Cool ... that looks like it bends a pretty tight radius.

This is the kind I had to work with. It bends huge, awkward turns and the distance between the two rollers allowed for kinking.:rolleyes:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/d2e1_1_b.jpg

Photos of the tools are nice, but does anyone have model numbers / part numbers and sources for a tool which will flare metric hydraulic line? Specifically the DIN/ISO "bubble" flare required for 6mm SLS fittings?

:euro: