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#1
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Tips for Making Successful Bubble Flares
When I spliced the hydraulic lines for my SLS I used a bubble flare tool to create the flares at the fittings. I found it was hard to get an even bubble flare.
After trial and error, I found that lubricating the die made it a little easier. Filing the end to make sure it was square helped. I also made more consistently good flares by creeping the tool down and backing off slightly until the die touched the clamp. Does anybody have any tips for making this process easier using a tool like the one in the pic I attached?
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#2
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I did the same thing (SLS line repair) with the same tool. Trial & error finally got it done for me. Did you order the metric replacement hydraulic line, too? I had to mail-order mine. Good luck!
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's) |
#3
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I had to buy all the stuff online as well. 25' coil of 6mm line, union fittings, flare nuts, and flare tool kit. Searching the internet did not reveal much in the way of tips for successful use.
I ended up with a repaired system that I'm happy with, but I spent way too much time trying to get good flares. There must be a few tricks to make it a smoother process.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#4
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I spent way too much time trying to get my replacement line bent and routed properly! Talk about a PITA... I should have just cut out the rotted section and spliced in a repair.
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's) |
#5
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Yeah ... bending the lines without kinking them is an art.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#6
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this tool is much better...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#7
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I see that that the yoke (sp?) clamps in place. That must be the secret to its success.
__________________
Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#8
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that and the anvil is fluted, and pinned, so it turns with the handle, works MUCH MUCH better.
oh, and sorry, it's a RIDGID double flare tool
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#9
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That looks nice! I somehow manage to split the end of the line half the time when I'm doing double flares...
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#10
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This tool will work to make new ends for brake lines too right? If so I need to get one....so I am prepared when I need to replace sections of my brake lines in back in case they rust out....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#11
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Yes ... just make sure it comes with the bubble flare die for 4.75 mm line.
__________________
Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#12
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A proper tool is well into the $400 range.
a proper tool will NOT leave any marks on the tube from clamping (weak spots) The ridged is a nice tool, be sure to get the right double flare dies with it. Cunfer tubing will make life easier. next time your at a PNP, rip some volvo brake lines off, as they are 90-10 nickel copper lines ("cunfer") Volvo's been using it since the late 70's, it will not rust and will bend and flare amazingly easy. (and I hope I spelled everything right)
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#13
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I bought a special hand tool for small diameter tube bending. It does a great job without kinking. The trick is learn which way to insert the tube as you can bend in the wrong direction very easily. So instead of bending a "S" shape you can very easily accidentally bend "U".
It looks very similar to this tool.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#14
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Quote:
This is the kind I had to work with. It bends huge, awkward turns and the distance between the two rollers allowed for kinking.
__________________
Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#15
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Photos of the tools are nice, but does anyone have model numbers / part numbers and sources for a tool which will flare metric hydraulic line? Specifically the DIN/ISO "bubble" flare required for 6mm SLS fittings?
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