A splash in the pan
 

There are some pretty severe dents (enough to alter fluid capacity specs) in my lower oil pan.
Next oil change I am changing oil cooler and would like to drop the pan for inspection (the car is new to me).

Is there a reasonable means of removing some of these dents? - has anyone tried?

Or is it just a new pan --- the oil pump has a rubber buffer b/w it, and the bottom of the pan - suction issues?.

A hammer and dolly should do the trick. Don't replace the pan, it will then act as a dent magnet (ask me how I know...:rolleyes:)

And build you....
 

Make a skid pan for that thing. On my 300SD the skid pan is factory. But it should not be hard to replicate. The main bars are like an H. The uprights on the H represent bars running parallel to the engine. The front of the bar ties into the frame, the rear of the H ties into the crossmember behind the engine. Central horizontal bar represents the skid part of the "bash" catcher. Has an oval hole for drain plug removal. Of course a picture is worth a thousand words, but I've not installed the hardware onto this computer to give you pictures yet.

Regards

Run-em

I am a little concerned about hammering out the pan without the surface being mated - wont this deform the surface and cause leaks?

Any tips on keeping this kosher would be greatly appreciated?

Dolly? - I though that was moving large items?

I once bought a 240D with a badly dented pan. When I pulled it I discovered the oil pump had broken :eek: just above the "belled out" part that holds the screen so it was picking up the oil but had the oil level become much lower it woulda been bye, bye engine.

A new pan is relatively cheap and on your car, relpacement is just a walk in the park. I suggest you buy a new one and do it the right way.

It will also be a perfect time to address a turbo drain leak if you have one.;)

Thats what I was waiting to hear.. I'll have to search for the turbo leak though.. not too familiar.

What are used pans going for? $$

I'm going to replace my turbo drain o-rings at my next oil change. I might have to get a bottle jack to help press the tube out. But I've read that putting a hose clamp around the drain tube will give you a point to pry down to press it into place again. That's the biggest oil leak on my car next to the oil pan gasket. The other bad oil leak was from a rotted out turbo wastegate hose. That one blew oil all over the passenger side motor mount and made it deteriorate.:eek:

I almost forgot the leaking oil cooler lines I just replaced too.:D

I believe I last saw the pans at ~$30, but I may be off a little on that.

Skid plate
 

There is a skid plate available from the factory for the W123 cars. It ain't cheap at around $132 from Phil not quite two years ago but for those of us who don't weld it's nice. I posted a DIY thread here.

Mounting points are already built into the W123 chassis. The skid plate doesn't interfere with oil changes (if you still do it the old-fashioned way). It's cheap insurance, IMHO.

Jeremy

That is very clever, w/ the hose clamp thing. After reading the writeup on here about this issue I was definitely dreading this repair without the car on a lift or at least ramps (none of which I have)

Is there any way to judge the deterioration of this grommet? I do not have the leak at the moment, but with the pan off and a big shipment from Fastlane coming, it may be prudent.

Mine is kind of spongy and I believe it's supposed to be hard rubber.

If you don't see a leak there I wouldn't worry yet. I would wait until you see the seal where the tube meets the engine looking wet with oil. You have another chance to do that job at every oil change.


Edit: One of the best tool investments I made was jack stands and a full size floor jack (4 ton from SEARS). They have made every job since their purchase much easier.:cool:

In searching for a used pan -- - -it appears that the lower pan from gassers of the same year are the same dimensions?? input? 85 300td

Mine is also caved in by someone putting a jack under the pan. If I decide to beat out the dent I would try a new paper gasker with the Ultra type Silicone Sealant on both sides of the gasket. This should help seal up any warpage.

These pans seem to be pretty resilient in my experience, My DD 240 had a blown engine and mildly dented pan. I got the car with a 617 that had been in a wrecked car, it had grass/mud caked over a crushed in pan. I popped the pan, found the pump pickup tube (cast aluminum) had busted off. Pulled off all broken parts, rinsed out oil pump intake on good engine & scrubbed out old 616 pan. Used permatex aircraft sealer with old gasket on 616 pan & used 616 oil pickup tube, been going fine, leak free and great oil pressure, for 2 yrs so far and running on the 617...

I recently hit a nice rock that had surfaced itself in my gravel driveway, damn thing made a nice kink in the pan, now I'll have to restraighten it again next service...DOH!

I will not have a pan in time for the next big repair - Sounds like I will definitely be following in your footsteps. What did use to bang it out? What surface? any JB weld necessary?

All I can say is that the stupid 603 pan cracked the first time I hit it on something, no question of denting.

Whatever the difference is, thank your lucky stars that your pans are all so forgiving as to "bend" and "dent" instead of "Split and dump oil".

Update: Banging out the pan via wood and hammer was very successful against carpet and concrete. Keep JB weld on hand.

I missed your post earlier, else I'd replied sooner. I used a ballpeen and wood, pretty much the same as it sounds like you did, I also used the socket end of a 3/8 drive extension & a small brass drift to help a little with the corners. Wasn't worried over scratching the paint on the pan, so I was on my concrete floor. I don't know how severely your's was dented, I didn't have a need for any JB weld. So long as the flange wasn't distorted to begin with and you don't prop it up on anything by the flange during straightening, it should seal up fine with that sealer. I don't know if the 616 and 617 N/A oil pumps are the same (never compared #'s while my pan was off), but I do know the lower pan and pickup tube assy's are the same.

I ran across that once, it was a Moroso oil pan that a friend asked me to fix, he had lent his shoebox Nova to a buddy of his that hit the pan on a curb.....nice driving......
It as a small hairline fix, I said no problem......got out the torch and brazing rod....chased the friggin crack a bit, got out the mig welder, chased it more....finally got it, about 2 hours later and all kinds of spiders of it everywhere. It was some kind of weird hardened metal that didn't like flexing or repairs......

I only mentioned the JB weld in case something happened to someone else. Mine went flawlessly and held oil w/ no leaks and I used no sealant of any kind upon install.

There was a humungous dent clear across the entire pan (perpendicular to engine length) pushing up against the oil pump rubber buffer - even had wear marks on the pan from the rubber.

Thats about the only thing that went well that day,, along with a coolant flush.

if i saw this earlier.. i have an oil pan that has no use i believe it is in near perfect condition....it could have been yours for shipping and a few bucks