Whats the proper procedure?

[Bens lover]

Well its long over due,I'm replacing my front rotors and pads on my 126.I wanted to know what the proper procedure is on the breaking in process.
I know allot of people might have there theory on it but not everyone knows,and that includes me.Stupid question maybe but its my question.
Thank you

[Diesel911]

This will take you to a whole bunch of brake links:
Brake:
But you would be well of to get or at least look at (in the Library) a repair manual. I have an 84 300D and if I remember correctly you must take the whole front wheel hubs off of the axle to get at the allen/hex head bolts on the inside to remove the rotors. If you remove the wheel hub you have to set the end clearance on the wheel bearings. The Mercedes Manual calls for a dial indicator set up to set the end clearance on the front wheel bearings. If I was you I would check the link/s I gave you above also do a search on setting the wheel bearing clearance/end play. And, of course it would be nice to look in a repair manual even if it is at the Library.

[Bens lover]

Maybe I didnt explain myself properly.When all is installed,is there a proper way to make sure the brake pads are broken into with new rotors etc etc...

[t walgamuth]

Been driving for over 40 years and changing brakes too.....I have never done anything except drive normally after installing new brakes.

Tom W

[vwbuge]

There is a procedure which escapes me now. I think it is like 2-3 moderate stops from 30mph. I can't remember though. I never "break in" my brakes, I don't think it is necessary with common rotors and pads.

[LUVMBDiesels]

I always brake lightly for the first 500 miles or so. Leave extra room and slow down gradually so as to not overheat the pads/shoes... Something I learned in the 4 wheel drum days... maight not apply to MB disks.

[Shawn D.]

What you want to do a Google search on is:

brake OR brakes burnish OR burnishing (put it in just like that)

Despite some folks experience with this (or lack thereof), it does make a difference. If it didn't, testing organizations and folks preparing their brakes for the track wouldn't go through the effort.

[grindMARC]

Heck yah it makes a difference. Stoptech.com has a bunch of whitepapers on various things involving brakes. Including one about the myth of rotor warpage (great reading!). And one about the proper break in procedures.

I think they suggest 5 increasingly aggressive "slow downs" from 60 mph with the last one being close to threshold braking (just before anti-lock/lockup).

I learned a very important lesson about bleeding brakes last weekend. DO NOT push the pedal down more than half way when bleeding. I ruined the master cylinder on my buddies car doing that. Put your other foot under the pedal or a block of wood to keep it from going all the way down.

[TX76513]

Brake Bedding

The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:

Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes

[Bens lover]

Thats what i wanted...
I just did not know the proper term.

Thanks for all the input guys!
Dan

[vstech]

that is not what I read when I was installing the new pads and rotors on my 90 vette... the break in period was similar at first, with the dragging part, then it says to take the car up to 60 or more, and perform several PANIC STOPS down to 0 with braking on the verge of antilock/tire squawk, then drive as far as possible at 50 or above without using the brakes.

[qwerty]

Originally Posted by vstech

that is not what I read when I was installing the new pads and rotors on my 90 vette...

Not all brake pad materials are the same, so it would be reasonable that not all break-in procedures would be the same.

[Hatterasguy]

I have never broken in brakes. If I get a Ferrari with cerimic brakes I'll look into it.

I've also never followed any "procedure" other than trying to be gentle on them for the first few trips. Honestly, by the next day I just jump in the car and drive, forgetting that I even replaced them. I get good 40K service from the fronts, about all I could ask.

[winmutt]

id do some moderate stops at 35mph and then some fluid boiling 65mph stops.