Tie rod replacement ... advice?
 

Took my car to get new wheels + alignment today, and the shop said I need new tie rods ... which I believe, considering the wear patterns on the old tires. Going to try a DIY for this, as it doesn't look like a real brutal job (already ordered OE tie rods for $50 less EACH than what the shop quoted me). I've done the search and have the FSM so I know the procedure, but could use advice:
-Some people are OK with the pickle fork rather than the joint separator. Others say go with the MB tool or something similar. I'm replacing the whole tie rods, so do I really need to worry about preserving the sanctity of the ball joints? I.e., can/should I do this job well using a pickle fork instead of a $300 tool? Opinions appreciated.
-This might be a dumb question, but I think my overall intelligence is high enough that I can afford the hit of an occasional dumb question. Do you have to remove the wheel to do this? And do you have to jack up both sides of the car or can you go one side at a time? I have a somewhat-legitimate fear of my car falling on me. I usually use ramps and go under from the front, so if it rolls off it will only break several bones, and not crush/flatten me entirely. Unfortunately a state-of-the-art lift will not fit my budget, and definitely won't fit my garage.:o

Thanks guys ... :cool:

You are replacing the ball joints at each end when you do this so no problem.
For other joints on my car I have used a seperator that I bought from the local discount auto store for around $20 and it works fine.
In the picture of the attached site I have the center tool and the one in the top right and have had good luck with those two.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92882

I used the pickle fork on my 240D tie rods. Took a big hammer and lots of cursing to break them loose ;). You'll need an alignment when you're done. I think I left my car on ramps.

John

Go with the pickle fork, use a 3lb hammer and don't hold back :D

Jim

I just basically pried them off with the pickle fork, hammer wasn't necessary.

This is, in my experience, the Holy Grail of tie-rod removers.

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=APO&MfrPartNumber=T75517&CategoryCode=3492

Make your new tie rod the same length as the old so that the alignment is still in the ballpark.

Count the threads :)

I used a pickle fork, lifted one corner at a time, wheel off, steering locked helps once you steer the end into an accessible position.

I just let the alignment shop install mine, since I was going to have to bring it there anyway.

I would suggest taking the wheel off - the outer tie rod end sits really close to the wheel (I think it is less than 1" away), so it would be awkward to access the tie rod end with the wheel on (I'm not saying it couldn't be done, just that it might be harder).

You can do each side individually. I think I removed the old tie rod with a 2-arm puller (I don't own a joint separator or a pickle fork so I know I didn't use either of those!). When you take the old tie rod off, set it on the bench next to the new one, and adjust the new one to exactly the same length (to within 1 millimeter). Then install the new one, put the wheel back on, and drive the car around the block. If the steering wheel isn't centered when the car is going straight on a flat section of road, park the car with the wheels turned so you can see the tie rod, and adjust the tie rod length by a tiny bit (around 1mm, I don't recall needing to jack up the car to do this). Drive again & repeat until the wheel is centered when the car is going straight. Then replace the tie rod on the other side. This will get things approximately correct for the trip to the alignment shop.

Also, some replacement tie rods have larger diameter ends than others, so confirm that there is no contact between the tie rod (or its rubber boot) and the wheel once the wheel has been reinstalled.

Count the turns when you're taking it off, and keep outwards pressure on it. Wherever it comes off, reinstall the new one at that same angle. Drive immediatly to the dealership for the alignment.

The tires cost more then the alignment, get it done at a dealership...

~Nate

I always popped them with a pickel fork and mini sledge. As said above count the threads to get them close.

This discussion brings up a question I have which is what are the specifications for the toe setting on these cars?

See attached files...