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#1
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New Merc Ideas
Hello i just joined the forum i have been lurking around for quite a while and am an avid reader. i wanted some ideas and tips from everyone. i recently acquired a 1985 300D it has i would guess around 130,000 on it. the odometer died recently. However i have good comprehensive records going back to the import date. with the last reported reading in 2014 at 123,600. while doing the valves recently found it has 2 degrees of chain stretch on an original chain so the engine is in great condition. the body is pretty good too the paint is failing but theres minimal rust and what there is is superficial. i intend to be quite liberal with a can of por-15 in the near future.
I was wondering what some ideas for general work to be done that is easily accomplished that would improve it. so far i have rebuilt the injectors and set the pop pressure to 140 bar. got new tires and rear brake disks and pads. replaced the brake flexible lines and purged the system with new fluid. replaced all the filters and fluids(engine oil, atf, diff gear oil, power steering fluid, both fuel filters, and air filter). i also replaced the front seats with a set of second gen w126 front seats from a 420sel. currently working on wiring the controllers for said seats in. i still need to replace all the front end bushings. i also need new tie rods drag link and some steering work. the wheel sits at around the 11 position when at neutral and has around 1" of play. finally got around to tuning the vacuum system and the bowden cable. this combined with the alda adjustment made it possible to no longer curse at red lights and stop signs. all in all its been a great experience working on it so far. i love how simple and yet ingenious the mechanical systems are. if anyone has any potential work you can think of that would help feel free to chime in. i keep finding things to do but i don't have the experience some of the people here do.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way. KD9AFT A&P |
#2
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I'd probably replace the shocks and the steering stabilizer while you are at it. Check to see if the window seals are leaking and replace them with OEM if they are.
Also make sure none of the drains on the car are clogged.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#3
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Sounds like you bought a nice car! I don't have any real advise for you, you seem to know your way around cars just fine.
I was gonna throw a "check your flex discs" out there, but with 130K they are probably still fine. Though, when I took mine off, I realized they were pretty cracked, but it was hard to see with the prop shaft on. Anyway: post some pics! Love to see what you've got. Also, 1" of steering wheel play? You lucky bastard. I'd kill for 1" of play. ![]()
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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere." Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles) Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles) The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles) Last edited by Ceristimo; 06-03-2015 at 04:06 PM. |
#4
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yeah i am planning on replacing the entire suspension piece by piece. The shocks and springs are ok for now. mostly just don't have the budget or time for a full replacement right now. but first up are the rubber bushings theres not much of them left and it drives like a boat as a result.
still chasing some residual air in the brake lines. also need to get the sun roof working seems like it just needs a good greasing/cleaning. spent some time earlier today under the car replacing the soft brake lines. i noticed the cv boots are shot. does anyone know how good the axle assy from USA industries they sell here is? pictures to come soon.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way. KD9AFT A&P |
#5
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heres some shots of the car as is. the front driver seat is one of the ones from the 1991 420sel still have to put the passenger seat in. the engine bay needs a good cleaning too. new paint job also thinking metallic British racing green.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way. KD9AFT A&P |
#6
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Do the W116/W123 boxes wear quicker than the ones in later cars? My 190D with 320K has virtually no play.
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#7
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Nice! Looks really decent on the pictures!
@W123fanman I think the theory on those boxes is that Mercedes used to specify ATF fluid as power steering fluid. That stuff has friction material in it, and apparently wears out steeringboxes quicker. On later Merc's they used and specified actual power steering fluid. I don't know where I read that - and whatever source I got that information from might have been making it up - but it sounded pretty plausible to me.
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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere." Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles) Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles) The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles) Last edited by Ceristimo; 06-04-2015 at 12:01 PM. |
#8
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Maybe start thinking of ways to cram a Wright Duplex-Cyclone engine in it? J/K.
Looks like a nice car. Do a valve adjustment if you don't know when it was done last. Then just go through and fix what you find broken. I did find a change to a manual transmission from a 240D made the car much more enjoyable to drive, but that's not for everyone.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. 99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles. |
#9
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yeah i am planning on doing a manual swap some day. its just a question of time and money. there was a 717.400 for sale on ebay not too long ago for 900. then i saw it was in Poland and shipping was 500.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way. KD9AFT A&P |
#10
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Id strongly suggest a full fuse change. Use the copper/bronze element fuses only.
Full set with extra's off of ebay is bout $10
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." |
#11
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ditto
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1993 MB 300D 245K died. ![]() |
#12
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The steering gearboxes are virtually impossible to wear out. I have adjusted them with well over 300K and gotten excellent results. Its not rack and pinion though and on center the response is soft by comparison but tightens up as you turn the wheel.
Sounds like a nice car!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#13
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i already cleaned the fuse box contacts and replaced the fuses with the copper ones. fixed quite a few electrical gremlins i thought i was going to have to spend time chasing.
does anyone know the quality of the axle shafts sold here from USA industries? need to replace mine and cant find any reviews on them.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way. KD9AFT A&P |
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