603 pump and cam timing, damaged Injection Pump Timing device
 

I need some advice on putting the engine in time....the injection pump needs to be timed at 15 ATDC and the camshaft times at TDC, is this correct...how does a person go about doing that? time the pump first and then the camshaft?

Reading Materiel
 

Visit member GSXR's "Website" and all will become clear!
http://www.w124performance.com/images/

Mercedes Benz Club of Russia's Illustrated Electronic Parts Catalog:
(Updated whenever Mercedes updates)
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb0.asp?TP=1

Injection Pump is "Timed" Last (After Crankshaft and Camshaft are correct)
by adjusting (Turning the pump TOWARDS or AWAY from the engine) it's
relationship to The Crankshaft and Start of Fuel Delivery.

The Above is an OVERSIMPLIFICATION !

Here is a better Pic of the IP locking pin:
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...esel911/zq.jpg
The above tool was Made by Assenmacher Tools.
Below is a pic of one installed on the IP; look for the RED tip on the tool.
http://www.w124performance.com/image....962_pump1.jpg

thanks, I have the tool to time the injection pump, I just don't understand why the cam times at TDC and the injection pump times at 15degrees ATDC. I have the engine completely apart, everything but the crankshaft removed from the block, I am rebuilding it in frame. I just wondered how to go about getting everything back in time the simplest way possible, and to keep from having to disassemble again in case I miss the mark the first go around.

I.P. Timing
 

Over the HUMP of TDC provides the best "Injection Point" for the fuel.
(And further increases the momentum carried over by the flywheel?)

just for the record, I am rebuilding a 603-970 3.5 liter (1990 vintage), showed 140000 miles on the odometer. the cylinders look good, cylinders still show good hone marks and no scoring or scuffing. replacing rods, rings, bearing, timing chain. the rest of the car is in good condition and I hope to keep it for several years.

A couple of items.
 

I would replace all the items below as a matter of peace of mind.

Timing Chain + all Sprockets + Tensioner
Oil Pump chain + all sprockets (Make sure to use "Loctite" on the OP sprocket
BOLT!)

GSXR has just had a spontaneous vacuum pump failure(Nasty,Nasty,Nasty)
It took out his Injection Timing Device as well!

Ugly details and pictures here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/231260-om603-vacuum-pump-explosion-bearing-intact-injection-pump-timing-device-wrecked.html

I'd sure be inclined to replace the Vacuum Pump with a new one if mine had
over 100K miles on it!

Just a matter of enriching my (Rather Limited) knowledge base...
What is the part number for the New "Rods" you're installing?

Hello, Sorry it took so long to reply to your question, I missed the last of it. The part # for the rods I used is 603-030-29-20 rod x 6 $210.00 ea
Number 6 rod was bent when I tore the engine down. However, I caught it soon enough to save the piston and the cylinder was not damaged. I have had the car back on the road now for approx. 3000 miles and I have added 1 quart of oil to it since the rebuild. Much better than a quart every 200 miles. I am quite impressed with the way this car drives and performs, this is my first Mercedes. Also, for the record, I run 100% self-made biodiesel. This is not the first diesel I am running on biodiesel.

On what axis was the rod bent? Does the bending show in pictures?

Sixto
87 300D

set the basic engine timing 1st.that is cam to crank timing when assembling the engine.after those components are in and timing chain installed set the engine to 15 btdc according to the pointer on the crank hub and install the injection pump with the locking tool:)

actually, the rod bent 90 degrees to reciprocating direction, difficult to see without holding one of the unbent rods adjacent to it. I found it by measuring the deck height compared to other cylinders, #6 was a few thousandths below the others. I didn't write the difference down and that has been a couple of months ago now. I do still have the rod, but a picture is not going to show anything. The new rods were quite different in appearance, some of the meat around the big and little end of the rod was moved to the beam part, I did not weigh the rods, but by hand, they felt the same as the old rods.

Most assuredly You "Saved" your engine Just in time.
 

Excellent!
Was the Quart(+) every two hundred miles or so, a gradually occurring symptom?

not sure about that, I bought the car recently, it had 130K + on the odometer. This being my first mercedes, I was completely unaware of this rod bending problem. I put a few thousand miles on it and a couple of oil changes, minor maintenance, etc. before I decided to attempt a repair. I bought the car from an individual as is and didn't even bother with trying to get my money back on it. I am also finding out that MB parts are not cheap. The car had a repair bill in the glove box for a transmission overhaul recently, so maybe I am good to go for a long time. I think it is kinda cool driving around in this car that is almost an antique and enjoying all the comforts of a high end luxury car, this car so quiet inside the driving compartment you can carry on a normal conversation at freeway speeds. This car has a much room as a crown victoria and the trunk is huge.

Was the entire part number on the rods? Mine only say 603 12 on them.

Unable to give you any answer on that....I didn't look for a part number on the rod, they were in OEM sealed boxes wrapped in anti-corrosion paper, I assume they were what was ordered. The sales person assured me that they were the latest and greatest that mercedes had to offer. If you want the part number from the old rod, I can dig them out.