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  #1  
Old 08-25-2008, 03:25 AM
1984 300SD
 
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Locating bolts

How many bolts hold the oil filter assy. to the engine block. Time to replace the gasket ( big oil leak ) and I am not quite sure how to approach the job. Very hard place to work. I think that German mechanics have smaller hands than mine.

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  #2  
Old 08-25-2008, 05:35 AM
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you might have to remove the steering box I cant remember if I did or not
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:40 AM
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It can be done without removing the steering box but is a capital Bear. I think there may be three bolts. I have not done it myself but my handly man did one for me some years back.

Tom W
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:47 AM
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5 bolts.
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  #5  
Old 08-25-2008, 01:43 PM
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Correct 5 bolts. they are the hex bolts, think 5mm. one is a long one.
unscrew the oil cooler lines at the filter housing, they are 1 1/16 in. I made myself a flair nut wrench for the oil cooler nuts.

the job is PITA to do. I removed one at PNP one time, had black oil leaking all over me. the second one I removed at PNP was a breeze. Damn Iam good.

when replacing the oil cooler lines use anti seiz on the threads. really helps in removing them the next time.

Charlie
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Old 08-25-2008, 02:06 PM
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You will want to take the allen wrench and chop it off about 1/2 way on the short side in order get clearance to the center bolt.... Make sure you take a blade to the old gasket on both faces and make damn well sure none of the paper gets into the oil galleys. They are reall good at plugging the piston squirters.

The brits must have it alot easier.
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  #7  
Old 08-28-2008, 04:19 AM
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Thanks for your information, very helpfull as always.
Will re torquing the 5 bolts stop the oil leak? Slow it down?
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  #8  
Old 08-28-2008, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gears View Post
Thanks for your information, very helpfull as always.
Will re torquing the 5 bolts stop the oil leak? Slow it down?
First of all, you've got 5 socket head cap screws that hold the housing to the block.

Due to the very close quarters, the use of a short length of 6mm hex stock is nearly mandatory. To drive the hex stock, a 1/4 ratcheting box wrench is a godsend.

It's unlikely that additonal torque will stop the leak...........breakage of the cap screws is more likely.

It's critical that every single molecule of the old gasket be removed from the block face.........without getting any of the material in the oil gallery openings. It's a slow and tedious procedure and, if you hurry, you'll be doing it twice.

The OE gasket from the dealer is preferred.
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  #9  
Old 08-28-2008, 10:25 AM
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I stopped a leak at the oil filter housing to block gasket by tightening the bolts. They were loose. I would certainly attempt to torque the bolts before going to the effort of removing the housing. If my valve cover is leaking, I check the bolts. Same principle applies here.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:39 AM
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Is there room for a Torque wrench down there?
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  #11  
Old 08-28-2008, 12:25 PM
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Mine was a 409d where the oil filter housing points down and back. Easy to access those bolts with a breaker bar from below. Can't remember if I used a torque wrench or not. I do remember they were easy to turn.
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Is there room for a Torque wrench down there?
LOLOLOL. Thats a good un. There isnt enough room for anything other than a shortened 6mm allen wrench.

You will find it advantageous to jack the engine up a little on that side (don't tear the mounts).
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2008, 02:58 PM
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Allen sockets with removable bits worked great for me. Removed the bit from the socket (where necessary) and turned it with a ratcheting box end wrench. Replace the "other" gasket while you are at it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The OE gasket from the dealer is preferred.
Failing that, some aftermarket gaskets are a lot better than others. Don't cheap out on the gasket; spend the extra $1.25.
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  #14  
Old 09-01-2008, 01:40 AM
1984 300SD
 
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Thanks for all the input to my post. Yuck, what a filthy place to try to work. The clean up was the hardest part of the job.
Purchased a allen wrench and used a mini grinder to cut of a 3/4"
long piece. I have a set of ratchet flat wrenches. This combo works very well, all 5 bolts can be accessed from top and bottom.
three bolts were so loose the ratchet just went back and forth. After
taking a more than a turn on these and a good 3/4 on the others the oil leak has stopped or bacame very slow, will know in a few days. Thanks again for this idea. Saved a lot of work I think.

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