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  #16  
Old 09-03-2008, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
A ball joint press is an entirely different animal from a ball joint separator.
For me they were one in the same when I did mine. Does the one you referenced in that URL hold up pretty well? How many times have you used it? It presses on the base correct? I am going to put ABS spindles on sooner or later and one of my non OEM balljoints already has a crack in the boot.

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  #17  
Old 09-03-2008, 10:51 AM
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Thank you again.
I have one side all of the way apart, waiting for UPS today.
I will get it back together this week, then do the other side.
Will be interesting to see how much of a difference it really makes in the ride, and steering of the car.
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2008, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Does the one you referenced in that URL hold up pretty well? How many times have you used it?
I have used the separator several dozen times and it shows no signs of wear. It's a pretty serious piece of steel; the screw even has a ball bearing in the end. And it came with a lifetime guarantee from NAPA, so I hope to never need to buy another one! It works great on tie rod ends as well as ball joints; it doesn't damage the grease boots or gouge things up like a pickle fork.

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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
It presses on the base correct?
The function of the separator is to remove the tapered pin from the control arm, not to press the ball joint out of the steerring knuckle (spindle.) (On domestic vehicles, the steering knuckle/control arm configuration is usually reversed, but the concept is the same.)
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  #19  
Old 09-03-2008, 12:40 PM
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You know. I totally missed it was a puller . Can't tell you how many times I have looked at that tool and thought it was the press.
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  #20  
Old 09-04-2008, 01:52 PM
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Ok,
I am starting to assemble, and bought the harbor freight bearing press.
Also deided to replace the tie rods, and the bushings in the guide roud mounting. they are starting to come apart.

I have spent way too much $$ on this now...

Anything special to watch for? the LCA bushing looks like it presses from both sides, one at a time, with the center piece installed?


Thanks
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  #21  
Old 09-04-2008, 02:06 PM
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Do you have the proper spring compressor? You will need that for the LCA and guide rod removal.
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  #22  
Old 09-04-2008, 02:14 PM
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rrgrassi read my mind....


The LCA bushing go in at the same time. I used a long bolt and big washers to do the job.
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  #23  
Old 09-04-2008, 03:07 PM
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Yes, I have the spring compressor.
There does not appear to be any special way for these to be aligned, Just place all three pieces in and press.
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  #24  
Old 09-04-2008, 05:59 PM
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On a 3-part LCA bearing, the center element has two flat surfaces. When installing this part, the flats are to be parallel to the flat surface of the LCA where the brake support supporting tube (aka the guide rod) attaches.
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  #25  
Old 09-04-2008, 06:54 PM
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Post 10 of this thread shows how the 3 piece W126 type LCA bushings go together.

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)
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  #26  
Old 09-08-2008, 03:53 PM
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ok, What is the secret to getting the BJoint back in?
I went and got the HF press, but still can not get the joint pressed in. Seems to always go in a little crooked.
Thanks
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  #27  
Old 09-08-2008, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackestate View Post
ok, What is the secret to getting the BJoint back in?
I went and got the HF press, but still can not get the joint pressed in. Seems to always go in a little crooked.
Thanks
The secret for me was to take the ball joints and steering knuckles to a local inde that had the MB press and paid him $30 to press them in AND it took two guys to do it but they were done in 15 minutes.
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  #28  
Old 09-08-2008, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackestate View Post
ok, What is the secret to getting the BJoint back in?
I went and got the HF press, but still can not get the joint pressed in. Seems to always go in a little crooked.
Thanks
There is no way to do the job correctly with a generic press. The job is incredibly simple with a MB press. Take Phil's advice and do whatever it takes to find one. I got mine pressed in for $20 going through the back door at the dealer; in and out in 10 minutes. A local indepedent shop, however, did quote $125 for the job. That was with the naked spindles delivered to the shop and placed on the bench. I would have bought a press before I paid that!!!
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  #29  
Old 09-17-2008, 11:33 AM
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Thanks for the help,
Took the ball joints in and had them installed.
Headed in for an alignment today.
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  #30  
Old 09-23-2008, 10:48 PM
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Thanks for the help.
Now another issue. After rebuilding the front, the rear now seems to be sagging. Maybe I should not have done this?
So, what is involved in rebuilding the rear suspension?
both are W126

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