Originally Posted by lowriderdog37 (Post 1973047)

There are a few spring compressors to rent on the forum. I would replace everything at once. It's a pain to do this work...I just got done doing it. It makes a world of difference, you won't believe you are driving the same car!

Originally Posted by fdanielson (Post 1973712)

I just finished this same job last weekend and found out two things that really helped.

One is the spring compressor- the best is the official tool as mentioned earlier in the thread but if you don't have the cash to buy one or want to get the job done before you can arrange a rental I found that just about every other spring compressor available either won't fit or is very dangerous. In the end I used a Lisle spring compressor that actually bolts onto the srping instead of using hooks.
http://www.lislecorp.com/images/suspension/62300L.GIF
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1199
The description uses the words 'super safe' which made me feel better and I have always had good experience with Lisle. You can order these online for around $55 or I bought one locally from Parts Depot for just over $60 but got it that day. This compressor will compress the spring enough for you to replace the bushing with the control arm on the car but is not suitable if you want to remove and replace the spring itself. Just be sure to keep a jack or stand under the control arm while doing this for extra insurance.

The other trick was in flaring the sleeve in the replacement bushing. When you put the new bushings in they are held in place by an aluminum sleeve that has to be flared on the end. The manual shows a special tool and there have been other posts by people using various devices. I had great success using lug nuts from my truck. A lug nut is hollow in the middle and has a cone on one side so I took a long 3/8" bolt with the appropriate stacks of washers and stuck it through the middle of the bushing, slid the lg not on, more washers and spacers as needed, and a 3/8" nut to tighten it down. Tightening the whole assembly caused the lug nut's cone to flare the end of the sleeve perfectly.

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 1973522)

I made mine from 1inch x 14 threads pre inch threaded rod and several nuts, washers for spacers, apiece of flat spring steel slightly over 1/4 inch thick, and a 1 inch pipe flange. I also had to buy a 1 1/2 inch Flare Nut Crow Foot to turn the nut from under the Hood as there is no room for a regular wrench.

I had to cut a piece of the pipe Flange off for it to fit the top of the Spring Perch under the Hood.

The bottom plate has an elongated hole so that the plate will tilt.
Material cost was around $22 from an industrial surplus store; otherwise it would have cost around $10 more.
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f.../zMVC-369F.jpg

Originally Posted by Rocket99 (Post 3494988)

Hello Mr. D.911
Technical question ..... since this home built spring compressor isn't intended to remove the spring from the car I'm guessing it will not be necessary to compress the spring to the degree one would to remove the spring completely. Only, in the case of lower contol are refurbish, enough to withdraw the spring from the lower control are so it can be removed and replaced.

Thus: the stresses would be less.

Such a huge diameter rod ... can I ask, with that lower plate, its just over quarter inch thickness .... the photo isn't easy to see .... can I ask how wide that plate is you used. Take an inch + from its width for the threade rod ... the material you made the plate from must be 3 inches, or so, wide, to retain the beef necessary to exert the force to compress the spring... after punching such a large hole in it.



Yes??

thx

Rocket99