I am currently trying to replace the lower control arm bushings on my 85 300D turbo.
as i was trying to replace it i noticed it was under the large spring, and it is under high tension, is there any special way to remove the bushings without taking off the spring?

you have to remove the spring. Only use a Klann spring compressor, don't use on from autozone.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

There are a few spring compressors to rent on the forum. I would replace everything at once. It's a pain to do this work...I just got done doing it. It makes a world of difference, you won't believe you are driving the same car!

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

There is a older Thread of another member doing the same thing and making a spring compressor for the front. But this compressor only for the front of a 123 pulls the front Spring up into the spring Perch.

I made mine from 1inch x 14 threads pre inch threaded rod and several nuts, washers for spacers, apiece of flat spring steel slightly over 1/4 inch thick, and a 1 inch pipe flange. I also had to buy a 1 1/2 inch Flare Nut Crow Foot to turn the nut from under the Hood as there is no room for a regular wrench.

I had to cut a piece of the pipe Flange off for it to fit the top of the Spring Perch under the Hood.

The bottom plate has an elongated hole so that the plate will tilt.
Material cost was around $22 from an industrial surplus store; otherwise it would have cost around $10 more.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I bought http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Internal-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Shop-Quality_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp328 6Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem260289355334QQitemZ260289355334 off of ebay, it actually is pretty good quality i was suprised ill tell you guys how it turns out.

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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.

I did my 300D last May.....Ball Joints, UCA's, Tie Rods, Drag Link, Idler Bushings, LCA Bushings, Anti-Sway Bar Bushings, Shocks, and Guide rods.....then took it to the MB Dealership for alignment.....and then took it to my tire place for a pair of new Goodyears on the front.....had the tires that were previously on the front re-balanced and moved to the rear......WOW, what a difference......

It took me almost a year to collect up all of the parts, from our own Fastlane Phil......but it was most definately worth the wait to do it all at one time, saves a lot of repetative labor, and screwing around with that damn spring..........I used the Advance spring compressor.....a real PITA, and dangerous.....

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

I just did this on my 87 SDL and it made a lot of difference. I rented the spring Compressor from overdrive. I would not risk my life trying to save $20. it cost $40 plus shipping ($7 each way). definately worth it. also got the parts from Fastlane.

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I love snow
87 300SDL 245K (so far)
85 300cd 253K (so far)
2000 Chevy Silverado (gasser)
1993 Chevy 4x4 Diesel (auction truck)
2000 Monte Carlo (wife's car)


Is evolution true, or is Jesus the creator. (John 1:1-3)
I would rather trust Jesus on this one,
Bill
www.BillBaileyMinistries.org

I just finished this same job last weekend and found out two things that really helped.

One is the spring compressor- the best is the official tool as mentioned earlier in the thread but if you don't have the cash to buy one or want to get the job done before you can arrange a rental I found that just about every other spring compressor available either won't fit or is very dangerous. In the end I used a Lisle spring compressor that actually bolts onto the srping instead of using hooks.

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1199
The description uses the words 'super safe' which made me feel better and I have always had good experience with Lisle. You can order these online for around $55 or I bought one locally from Parts Depot for just over $60 but got it that day. This compressor will compress the spring enough for you to replace the bushing with the control arm on the car but is not suitable if you want to remove and replace the spring itself. Just be sure to keep a jack or stand under the control arm while doing this for extra insurance.

The other trick was in flaring the sleeve in the replacement bushing. When you put the new bushings in they are held in place by an aluminum sleeve that has to be flared on the end. The manual shows a special tool and there have been other posts by people using various devices. I had great success using lug nuts from my truck. A lug nut is hollow in the middle and has a cone on one side so I took a long 3/8" bolt with the appropriate stacks of washers and stuck it through the middle of the bushing, slid the lg not on, more washers and spacers as needed, and a 3/8" nut to tighten it down. Tightening the whole assembly caused the lug nut's cone to flare the end of the sleeve perfectly.

It is not spending almost $200 for a spring compressor that is the problem. It is spending $200 for a spring compressor that you can most likely use on only Mercedes.
If I spend that type of money on any tool I need to be able to use it on my other vehicles or it has to be something critical like the Timing Chain Crimping tool.
You can rent but when you buy you have have a tool in hand that you can use on something else. By not renting you can work at your own pace and schedual.
If I can make a tool that will do the same job; why not.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hello Mr. D.911
Technical question ..... since this home built spring compressor isn't intended to remove the spring from the car I'm guessing it will not be necessary to compress the spring to the degree one would to remove the spring completely. Only, in the case of lower contol are refurbish, enough to withdraw the spring from the lower control are so it can be removed and replaced.

Thus: the stresses would be less.

Such a huge diameter rod ... can I ask, with that lower plate, its just over quarter inch thickness .... the photo isn't easy to see .... can I ask how wide that plate is you used. Take an inch + from its width for the threade rod ... the material you made the plate from must be 3 inches, or so, wide, to retain the beef necessary to exert the force to compress the spring... after punching such a large hole in it.



Yes??

thx

Rocket99

I can't remember the size of the Plate. I thought it was 1/2" thick.

I have not had to use that Tool since I did the original Job so I am not sure where it is to measuer the Plate thickness.

Take a look at the picture and the threaded Rod is 1 inch. Measure a cross the threaded rod in the Picture and then do the same with the Plate that is in the picture and you will get an idea how thick the Plate is.

I think there is another in the there was another one in the Homemade special tools
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/239902-home-made-special-tools-where-members-can-share-how-they-made-special-tools.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

used 3/8 in. thick by 5.5 in. by 3 in. cold rolled steel, its just a bit too thick so grinding some thickness off along the path of spring contact , just a smidge, was necessary, its OK, worked

3/4 in X 10 thread per inch rod

normal nut on bottom

coulpling nut above to engage more thread on the active end

it did compress the spring enough to lift it off that spring seat / plate

now the lower ball joint is stuck

previously, cleaning the control arm to remove insulating grime, where the ball joint needs to break lose, and propane torch heat plus that harbor freight seperator you pictured the the thread:
Lower Ball Joint Separator for W123

has worked, not so far though