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#1
11-02-2008, 10:23 AM
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NEUTRAL safety switch
Can some one post a good picture of it, in it's location?
For the coupe. Is there anyway easy way to bypass it for test purpose's? I am pretty sure that is the problem, but want to verify before replacing. Thanks
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project 
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#2
11-02-2008, 12:07 PM
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I think this topic would answer your questions
Neutral Safety Switch R+R! You can bypass the switch by shorting some pins on the connector, if I'm correct short the topmost with the one on bottom, and then the middle ones with each other, but check your wiring schematics to be sure about this.
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Tomas, Sweden 1966 Mercedes Benz 230S with OM617.912, automatic. Disk brakes from W108 1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD grey, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual 1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD blue 7-seater, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
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#3
11-02-2008, 12:09 PM
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 Black plastic thing with round electrical connector. A number of things can go wrong with the NSS. One is the shift rod linkage bushings are worn so setting the lever in P or N doesn't set the NSS in the exact position to allow electricity to the starter. A simple test is to try the starter while moving the shift lever slightly forward and aft of the N position. Don't move it all the way into R or D, keep your foot firmly on the brake pedal and make sure nothing dear is ahead of or behind the car! If you find a sweet spot, you probably need new shift rod bushings. Another is adjustment of the NSS. 2 bolts that take a 10mm wrench hold the NSS to the transmission. One hole is slotted so you twist the NSS. An easy way is to set the transmission in R with the key on run (engine off) and twist the NSS while someone tells you when the reverse lights illuminate. Center the NSS as best you can based on when the lights come on and go off. It's more precise to do this with the transmission in P and a continuity meter but I don't know which pins to test. It's pretty easy to remove the NSS for bench testing. [edit] Photo courtesy of DaveM/gsxr Sixto 87 300D
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#4
11-02-2008, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
but wasn't sure. I have tried the shifter tricks, but cannot get it to spin anywhere. Shifter bushing are in great shape. I also have brake lights at this time, so that leads me to believe it is not an adjustment problem and that since the lights do work, there is power to the NSS. Is this a wrong assumption? As soon as my beautiful assistant gets home, I will check for power to the "S" terminal on the starter. This was not an ongoing problem either, just one day wouldn't start with the key.
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project
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#5
11-02-2008, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project
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#7
11-02-2008, 01:06 PM
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why used????????
Are they expensive or did you happen to have one already?
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project
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#9
11-02-2008, 03:38 PM
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Sorry to hijack the thread but what is involved in replacing the rod linkage bushings?
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#11
11-02-2008, 03:55 PM
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There are fancy circlips that hold the shift rod at either end. Lift the flap of the circlip that catches the tip of the rod and slide the circlip back then off the rod. Remove the rod from the shift lever at one end and the gear selector crank on the transmission. Remove old bushing remnants In many cases it will look like there never was a bushing. Smear non-petroleum lubricant on the bushings. I use Silglyde(sp?). Some folks put the bushings in a heat bath so they're more pliant. I use big locking pliers and a couple of appropriately sized sockets to press bushings onto the shift lever and gear selector crank. It's easy to remove the gear selector crank and work on it away from the car since it's tight quarters in there. There a bolt that takes an 8mm(?) wrench holding the selector crank to the transmission. IIRC the crank has a tab that engages the NSS so make sure that goes back in place.
Sixto 87 300D
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#12
11-02-2008, 04:25 PM
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hey Jack, if you can remove the carpet on the driver side of the tunnel, the harness from the neutral safety/reverse light switch terminates at about knee high on the tunnel. you should be able to put a meter on the terminals and determine which is neautral and which is reverse then jump them on the harness side to try to start
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 1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 
Linear Mode
