Valve Adjustment
 

83 300SD

What is the normal cost to adjust the valves? I went in to the local shop and was surprised to hear it will take two days and cost $200.00. Is this guy off his rocker or is that reasonable? Thanks.

The two days part is probably due to them wanting to have the engine ' stone cold'...which is proper... with practice and the proper tools and no surprises...it is a couple of hours...
Of course you posted on a forum which leans towards doing it themselves.... tools are a one time cost... but you will need regular setting of the valves... so the longer you have it the more you will have saved... leaving off the fact that you will know exactly whether it was done correctly ( hopefully ).... LOL

Mine had it overnight also and charged 2 hours @ $60/hour and changed the return lines at the same time. Actual time was probably just a little over an hour but the valves were in pretty good shape and didn't require much adjustment. An estimate of 2 hours which allows for problems seems reasonable to me. Remember they have to remove several items in order to remove the cover and then reassemble.

by the third time you do it, it should be about 45 minutes, w/ some proper wrenches.

I recently adjusted my own on my 300D. It was my first time and I was more than a little nervous. Cost me about $25 for a gasket from Diesel Giant. $10 for a couple of 14 mm wrenches that I had to heat and bend to fit into the spaces. Took me way too long (maybe 5 hours) but next time will be much quicker. It wasn't hard to do, thanks to tutorial from Diesel Giant and a post in the archives about how to fashion the wrenches.

For me, the hardest part is removing the fan and shroud so I can turn the engine w/the crank shaft bolt from above. The DIY valve adjust is pretty easy.

does anybody have the valve sequence guide?

i lost the thread that had the file.

Just look at the manifolds.

Haynes has it. I do not remember if the front most valve is exhaust or intake.

If exhaust it would be EI IE EI IE EI. If intake is first, then it would be IE EI IE EI IE.

Go to dieselgiant.com. There is a pdf you can download.

i know the order, and the color of the stem seals is a good indicator too. It begins with exhaust.

I was looking for the sequence when turning, Beginning at any point, the next lobe to be perpendicular is noted on the sheet to eliminate guesswork and save time/ aggravation and poor organization.

Just start at the front and work back. It's too much of a headache to skip around.

I have to make a new set as I used "chepo' wrenches and one has spread to 15+mm eek:. Did you use just a propane tourch? Oh crap, the lights are flickering:rolleyes:

I have used the power steering pump's nut to turn the engine and I have used a remote starter switch to 'bump' the engine from one valve to the next. The latter is much easier (some people are concerned about accidentally starting the engine but with a cold engine it should not be a risk). Don't turn the engine backwards!

It's probably best to start at the front of the block and work your way to the back. The only thing you have to keep track of is which valve is an intake and which is exhaust. In most cases, the valves tend to get tighter as the seats wear down so you will have to open them up.

Jeremy

Thanks for the replies. Here is the requested pic.