My Superior Shift Kit thread (W124 300DT)

[SpecialDelivery]

Yes my 1982 300SD, he was talking about holes to increase the fluid flow and pressure, which ones specifically I'm not sure, maybe he was referring to VI, I saw something labeled V in the parts store today, not sure if it was DEX, maybe not

[biopete]

What a great thread. Thanks everyone who contibuted. Hopefully i can add something I'm struggling with my valve body on my 1992 722.4 that just got a rebuilt tranny. The builder said he cleaned valve body but he didnt open side ports for k1 , k2 and accumulator valves and check all those . We think we have a stuck accumulator valve. The problem is the car shifts to 4th by 20 mph no matter how Bowden is adjusted.

I ordered the shift kit. Question: why does the kit only go to 1990 and has anyone used it on a later 1991 + transmission?

Thanks.

[SpecialDelivery]

not sure but you can call them. Also Roy might have valuable input on this question

[biopete]

Originally Posted by SpecialDelivery

not sure but you can call them. Also Roy might have valuable input on this question

Yeah i called Cobra transmissions and another place. They both said for 1992 it wasn't available. But neither knew details why. I'm guessing it is probably some obscure, barely documented, small change in the valve body that didn't get published to the aftermarket or didn't trickle down yet.

My transmission guy is trying to get a valve body for me.

But for future reference, has anyone gotten the superior shift kit to fix my problem -- shifts through all the gears really fast by 20 mph no matter what?

I've got a 722.3 on my 87 wagon that i'm going to try to fix same problem in with the superior shift kit.

[gsxr]

Originally Posted by biopete

But for future reference, has anyone gotten the superior shift kit to fix my problem -- shifts through all the gears really fast by 20 mph no matter what?

I've got a 722.3 on my 87 wagon that i'm going to try to fix same problem in with the superior shift kit.

Just curious, have you verified that the Bowden cable is working properly? With the trans pan removed, have someone pull on the throttle linkage, and you should be able to see the plunger move in & out on the valve body.

I've read about a strainer inside the valve body somewhere that can get plugged up, but I can't recall if it will help with this particular issue.

[qwerty]

Originally Posted by gsxr

No, this is not the "1st gear start" mod you've heard about, and your 300SD should already start in 1st gear. The 2nd gear start trannies didn't arrive until the later 1980's and only on gasoline models, not diesels.

That is factually incorrect.

[gsxr]

Originally Posted by qwerty

That is factually incorrect.

Care to explain, along with citing years/models that conflict with my previous statement?

[biopete]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

I installed the B1/B2 accumulator springs, the B1 control valve spring, the K1/K2 control valve springs(2) and the TV pressure control valve springs (2).

Initially, with the valve body still installed, I had replaced the K1 accumulator spring with the purple spring and installed the shorter, blue spring in the K2 accumulator spring train. The results then were very good; the 2-3 flare (which was the major problem) was gone and the 2-3 & 3-4 shift quality was excellent. It's when I tried to go from 'very good" to "perfect" that things went downhill.

The vacuum levels at the vacuum control valve are 15" at idle, 5.5" with the test disk installed. I have 23" at the pump.

I'm trying to do the tv pressure control spring -- steps 9 and 10. These are behind the plunger the Bowden lever operates right ? On the upper half. How do you get this apart? I'll post pic. Thanks.

[qwerty]

Originally Posted by biopete

How do you get this apart?

You have to remove the retainer plate on the rear of the upper valve body. Doing so will also free several spring-loaded valves, so use caution.

[whunter]

for customer


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I have been unable to document exactly which 722 transmissions this fits.

This may help sort out what you need, Use Page Translation = it is in Russian.
http://www.oldmerin.net/board/lofiversion/index.php/t132382.html

K1 - spring kit 1262704477
K1 - piston 1262700335
K2 - part number on the tube is 1262778432, however the kit part number is 126 270 04 35
K2 - piston 1262700435
K2 - piston 1262700535
B1 - piston 1262700235
B1 - piston 1242700035

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[biopete]

Update on my attempt at spring kit: I tried to follow the instructions. As i understood them you could replace the whole K1 and K2 spring trains with 1 big spring each. I did that. I gave up on getting the tv pressure control spring out . I took off the plate but couldn't get it to budge. Then i put it back in car and backed out and the car wouldn't go forward. Reved up, it tried to go and would move a little but it felt real bad. So i stopped and called my tranny guy. He said don't drive it.

So i got a valve body from him put it in . Backed up and then it wouldn't go eaither. But at this point i was like somethings got to give and thought maybe the valve body hadn't filled up with fluid . So i revved it a few minutes and gradually it started to move and has been working great ever sense. It solved my problem.

its possible i did'nt mess up the spring kit install and just didn't give the valve body time to fill up with fluid.

Am i right that you can just replace the spring kits in K1 and K2 with the the correct big spring in the Superior kit? Or did i misread the instructions?

[gsxr]

There is no need to rev the car to "fill" the valve body. Something else was going on there, but I don't know what. Maybe the fluid level was too low or something.

Yes, K1 / K2 entire train is replaced with the appropriate big/long spring from Superior, and yes, the instructions are really poor.

[whunter]

for new members.


.

[gsxr]

Late update:

My 1987 300D had a stacked (way too early) 3-4 shift... it would essentially skip 3rd gear at part throttle. So, I bought the Superior kit in June 2009, and it sat on my shelf collecting dust for a full 5 years. Yikes.

Anyway, I finally installed the stacked-shift correction spring for the 3-4 shift in early June (2014). The instructions fail to mention that you need to drop the valve body to replace this spring. What a pain! And a royal mess, too. All for one tiny little spring. The good news is, the stacked shift issue is much improved. The issue is still present at light throttle... but at medium throttle, it will now stay in 3rd gear for a reasonable amount of time. I swapped the spring just prior to a fluid change, I wanted to make sure it was working before I poured in ~$100 of fresh Red Line D4. After testing with the old fluid, I did the fluid & filter change, everything has been ok since. I did not replace any other springs, the other shifts were all (relatively) ok, considering the trans has 325kmi and has never been rebuilt.

Tip Of The Day: If you leave the trans pan below the tranny to catch the dripping fluid while R&R'ing the valve body... make sure you drain the pan before attempting to re-install it. Otherwise, you will get a very nice, very red, ATF bath. Don't ask how I know. For the record, I learned this a year or two ago during a different VB removal... managed to avoid multi-quart ATF puddles this time.

[oilslick]

I have read through this thread and have gained understanding and then have become totally confused and then gained understanding again. I just want to be sure that I have understood what I think I have understood. Here goes:

Am I correct in assuming that the one red spring will replace the entire 2 spring train for my k2 accumulator so I can firm up a very soft and flaring 3-4 shift? All I need to do is put the red spring in without any of the plastic parts or other springs?

The instructions that came with this kit are nearly worthless. Nearly. My phone will not allow me to upload any pics either. What a day! Thanks for your patience and advice.