Did you guys buy the special bolt kit for the outer joint of the rear LCA (part number 1243506706), or did you just use regular bolts and nuts? There is one bolt in the image that has a tapered end, not sure where it goes.

since it's such an old thread, you may want to start a new one, but which picture are you referencing? I assume this one?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...506706-M22.jpg

that's a nice bolt kit, I think since each bolt is a different thread and diameter, you'll have no difficulty matching up from the original bolts.
I've changed many of these bushings, I've always reused the original bolt, it's HEFTY... :D

You can re-use the bolts if they are in good condition without corrosion or damaged threads. Use blue Loc-Tite. And DO NOT tighten the inner pivot bolt with the car in the air. It's not easy to do this with the car on the ground, you'll need to get creative.

:stuart:

Great advice, will do. I suspect the bolts are going to be rusty, but its really only the tapered end bolt I'm concerned about - the others look stock.

Dave - thanks for the tip.

block of wood under the spring link and jack it up till the weight starts to lift off the jackstand.

Thats how I do most of such tightening.

Good thought. I was going to put the wheels on and place 4-5in of wood underneath each, but that works too. Figuring this out at the end of the job is going to be a walk in the park compared to getting off the rusty bolts in the first place.

When you first lower the car to the ground, either on wood blocks or with a jack under the control arm, it will not settle all the way down. You need to measure the ride height from wheel center to fender lip before you take anything apart. Then when using the wood blocks/etc, add weight in the trunk until the measurement is the same, THEN tighten the nuts. Keep in mind that the rear ride height will vary about 1/2 inch between empty tank and full tank.

:scooter:

Any of you guys have trouble getting the outer bolt from the spring link / LCA? I've now removed the spring, the inner link, and the nut on the outer 'bushing' for the LCA, but the bolt itself doesn't want to come.

It rotates (with a lot of squeaking, moderate force), but is not backing itself out. I put a nut on the end (to protect the threads) and hammed (moderately, not everything I had), and similarly didn't get much.

At this stage, the hammering is partially being absorbed by the links / driveshaft, so I suppose I could reattach the inner without the spring and hammer again.

I also wondered what the inside of this outer 'bushing' is constructed of, perhaps it is spinning internally?

It can be a pain... You will need to support the spindle to get energy from the strike to allow the bolt to move. You can take both parts together and set them on a vise to dislodge the bolt.

Rust is likely holding you up.