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so is replacing the block heater...
as big of a PITA as putting in a new one?
has anyone just replaced the block heater? my buddy's 300D has a bad heater, and we are deciding weather to replace it or go the cheeep route of a $20 lower hose heater. I have the starter out today, but want to put that back in and get my garage cleaned up when the shop is done with it later today. |
These can seize into the block and although it would be rare, some have reported cracking the block around the threads trying to remove this!!!!:eek:
Stripping the threads is another problem with removing it. I would go with the lower radiator hose option myself! Right now you know the engine is fine and the lower hose option works well!:D |
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Good luck.:) |
I did the lower hose...works well for me. It's easy to install too.
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Removing an existing block heater shouldn't be near the job that removing an old freeze plug is. Either the block heater itself or the brass adapter ring will come loose. My opinion, if it's worth doing, do it right. You'll be glad you have the actual block heater. Remove your air cleaner housing, and you can get a breaker bar on it, though it's a bit difficult to see from above, the angles are much better.
I've had both, and I wouldn't waste time or money on a lower hose heater if you already have a block heater installed. It's the freeze plug removal that's work, the heater should come out much more easily. |
I ditto everything Astroman said. It should come out easy with a long breaker bar (I use a pipe as an extension arm on a 1/2 in bar for better torque)
I happen to have an unused heater I mounted in the adapter using teflon tape, I never installed it because the plug was impossible to remove and I didn't want to drain the block and apply blue wrench (flame) You can have it for $25 less cord (that was used on another car). If interested send me a PM. |
well, I bought an aftermarket block heater and took it to a shop to install. I also provided a printout of the discussions from this forum regarding installation of OEM, and why it should be avoided, especially the need to use a blowtorch. What do I know . . . am just a woman . . . soooo, they insisted on installing a cheaper OEM part, claiming that it would be a snap. When I came to pick up the car . . . well, they were not happy, especially since I made them give an estimate, since they were so cocky about it, and I held them to the 10% variance that was allowed. As I was leaving, they finally confessed that they had to use a torch to heat up the bolt to remove it!!! And admitted that they should have followed the sage wisdom of the people from this forum. I would hope, that if I have to replace it, it won't be so hard.
Torie Piccolovic |
well, the world may never know. :)
I removed the cord and checked the heater for resistance- and it had some, so I checked the cord for continuity- it was bad. I cut 6" off the end and put in a new plug- all's well, for now. I think I'll recommend a new cord from the dealer. http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/hir...300&height=300 it has the screw down brass cap on the block end, not like the pics from this site., so I reckon its an OE unit? |
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