as big of a PITA as putting in a new one?

has anyone just replaced the block heater? my buddy's 300D has a bad heater, and we are deciding weather to replace it or go the cheeep route of a $20 lower hose heater.

I have the starter out today, but want to put that back in and get my garage cleaned up when the shop is done with it later today.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

These can seize into the block and although it would be rare, some have reported cracking the block around the threads trying to remove this!!!!
Stripping the threads is another problem with removing it. I would go with the lower radiator hose option myself! Right now you know the engine is fine and the lower hose option works well!

That's a great question. Why don't you try it and let us all know. Mine sat in there unused for 18 years, so I hope it works for a few more years.

Good luck.

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

I did the lower hose...works well for me. It's easy to install too.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

I have never heard of anyone having issues with replacing the heater, only with installing a heater on a car that has the plug- like my TD. I went with a tank type heater on mine. I think the real deciding factor is going to be cost. $20 for a hose heater. $60+ for a block heater. plus a(possible) major PITA.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Removing an existing block heater shouldn't be near the job that removing an old freeze plug is. Either the block heater itself or the brass adapter ring will come loose. My opinion, if it's worth doing, do it right. You'll be glad you have the actual block heater. Remove your air cleaner housing, and you can get a breaker bar on it, though it's a bit difficult to see from above, the angles are much better.
I've had both, and I wouldn't waste time or money on a lower hose heater if you already have a block heater installed. It's the freeze plug removal that's work, the heater should come out much more easily.

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'79 300D, Ivory "Gunther" ......going
'81 300SD, Metallic Blue Silver, The Grey Ghost.....going
'87 300D Turbo ...gone
'05 CDI.... gone

I ditto everything Astroman said. It should come out easy with a long breaker bar (I use a pipe as an extension arm on a 1/2 in bar for better torque)
I happen to have an unused heater I mounted in the adapter using teflon tape, I never installed it because the plug was impossible to remove and I didn't want to drain the block and apply blue wrench (flame)
You can have it for $25 less cord (that was used on another car). If interested send me a PM.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

well, I bought an aftermarket block heater and took it to a shop to install. I also provided a printout of the discussions from this forum regarding installation of OEM, and why it should be avoided, especially the need to use a blowtorch. What do I know . . . am just a woman . . . soooo, they insisted on installing a cheaper OEM part, claiming that it would be a snap. When I came to pick up the car . . . well, they were not happy, especially since I made them give an estimate, since they were so cocky about it, and I held them to the 10% variance that was allowed. As I was leaving, they finally confessed that they had to use a torch to heat up the bolt to remove it!!! And admitted that they should have followed the sage wisdom of the people from this forum. I would hope, that if I have to replace it, it won't be so hard.

Torie

Piccolovic

well, the world may never know.

I removed the cord and checked the heater for resistance- and it had some, so I checked the cord for continuity- it was bad. I cut 6" off the end and put in a new plug- all's well, for now. I think I'll recommend a new cord from the dealer.

it has the screw down brass cap on the block end, not like the pics from this site., so I reckon its an OE unit?

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.