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#1
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My 81 300d has been running a little hot. Around 100 degrees celcius. I have changed the fluid and the thermostat and it is still running hot. I am thinking that maybe the guage is wrong but have not had time to check it.
My main question is, does an advanced injection pump timing have anything to do with throwing off the teperature? I thought i had heard this in the past but am unsure. The PO had the timing advanced on the injection pump for more power???? ![]() |
#2
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Make sure your water pump ain't old.Been flushed with Vitamin C powder.Too 28 year old water temp sensor may need changing.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt |
#3
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Is the water temp sensor right behind the thermostat housing? Or easier where is the water temp sensor?
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#4
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Quote:
I think the water temp sensor is in between the glow plugs. You'd see a thing sticking out with one wire hooked up to it. Also it could be the gauge itself. Running 100* all the time doesn't sound lethal, but that should definitely be corrected before you get long term damage like warping the head. I have never heard advancing the timing (to an extent) would increase waste heat output of the engine, because advancing the timing usually makes a more efficient burn of the fuel and should to the opposite. Advancing too far could do it. ForcedInduction will have to chime in on that. Also, you mean running 100*C all the time, or is that just at idle? If you have a more normal temp at a decent speed then you may have a bad radiator fan clutch, if you experience 100*C all the time, you may be talking about a bad water pump or clogged coolant passages. |
#5
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Once up to temp the car will run around 100*C. It fluctuates between 100 and 90. Also there is no pattern to it, heat on or heat off doesn't change anything, idle or highway speeds is the same. It just stays in between those two numbers. The car has never overheated but my biggest concern is that this will eventually hurt the engine. Have you heard of anyone elses running at this temp?
I suspect it could be a bad waterpump. I just had to tighten the belt on the alternator and waterpump a while back due to squealing. Could it be that the belt has stretched and its not pulling the pump fast enough? A new belt is my next step. I have checked all of the hoses and all seem to be free of any blockages. Could there be a block somewhere in the engine itself? If so would a flush help out? |
#6
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Quote:
Quote:
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How new is your radiator cap? |
#7
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That would be a citric acid flush. Vitamin C is ascorbic acid...
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#8
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Yeah your right,I like my gallon of vinegar to run one hour.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt |
#9
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Never tried acetic acid in a cooling system before...I do know that the 12m (full, undiluted strength) will dissolve glass.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#10
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I am not sure how old the radiator cap is. I have only had the car about 7 months. The cap does not look old and after running a while when I take it off I can hear the pressure release. So I don't know.
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#11
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Star with a new cap. They can be bad by either not holding enough pressure, or by not releasing enough pressure. Even if you can hear pressure releasing when you loosen the cap does not mean the cap is letting the system pressurize completely.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#12
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i would inspect/replace the radiator cap, then I would do a citrus flush to remove all the rust and crude in the system and deoil it
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#13
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My 87 300 sdl was having the same problem. I ended up doing the flush twice, and replaced the cap and she is running fine. The problem is we have very old cars that need to have some TLC every once and a while. At least your having this problem in the winter time, in the summer time you could get so hot so fast you could be asking to install a new head gasket.
Good luck
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Professional greasecar installer Austin TX 98 Jetta TDI with grease car kit + veg-therm (totaled) 87 MB 300SDL running on B99 / greasecar kit + 30 fphe www.austingreaseguys.com |
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