It has a tighter turning radius than the w123 and I like the ride and handling better as well. I like the look of the pre 1974 w115s best, but wanted something with a bit more power (settled on the 75' 300d).

Once It's up and running, I'm going to do some junkyard scavanging for the aesthetic stuff and new seatpads

Does anyone know if the pre-1974 w115 bumpers will fit the post-1974 w115s . the later euro bumpers are skinnier (thinner from top to bottom) than the earlier bumpers wondering if there are clearance problems with lights, etc . . . I am going to use w123 seat pads for the bottoms, but need new back pads - anybody know if the back parts of the seatpads are interchangeable between the pre and post 1974 w115s ?

I also posted this as a new thread on this website's vintage mercedes forum : http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes-forum/251506-pre-74-post-74-w115-bumper-seatpad-swap.html#post2188119

Strangely enough, I never liked the w123 looks inside or out, except for the round a/c vents. I went from a 115 to a 116 to a 126. But I missed having diesel clatter, so I had to buy something and found a 79 240d, cheap, with good interior and mechanical.

For some reason I'm fond of cars with large amber turn indicators on the rear tail lights. I guess because when I was a teenager/young adult, it was just the European cars that came with them. :sunny:

Not quite running yet, but motor, tranny, driveshaft, clutch pedals, shifter etc. are in. May need to trim at least 1 of the shift rods.

Tried to crank it over and heard an off noise coming from the valvecover, took it off and my timing chain had halfway slipped off the sprocket (only on one of the two set of teeth). Pulled the tensioner and that looked OK. It is the original chain and figure it needs replacement due to stretch - has anybody else ever had this problem?

I don't think it could slip off if the tensioner was working even if it was stretched...are you sure you put it back on both sprockets of the crank when you put it together?

[IMG]file:///Users/brian/Desktop/mercedes-related/MB%20engine%20swap/DSC00252.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///Users/brian/Desktop/mercedes-related/MB%20engine%20swap/DSC00250.jpg[/IMG]

Pics of motor in, newer spin on fuel filter off a 240D also installed (the original was a canister filter) . Veg oil system also installed (veg filter / heat exchanger mounted on passenger side, inj line heaters and manual valves to switch btw fuel and return lines also installed.

Now I just gotta get the thing running. Timing chain keeps popping halfway off the cam cog- replaced tensioner, gonna replace chain, also gonna take the oil pan back off and see if the timing chain popped halfway off the crank cog. Bizzare and unexpected problem huh? Any timing chain replacement advise would be appreciated

It needs to be heated before it reaches the injection pump, not the injectors.

Check the guide sprocket. 98a in the picture.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...chmentid=68198

Following this. Would that transmission work with a 71 220?

thanks for the diagram I'll check to see if there is play in the guide sprocket, if so that could be the problem. The chain was on the guide sprocket even when halfway off the cam sprocket, and the teeth seem ok, but If it has play or a worn bearing that could be the problem. That would make sense if that was where the problem was. I thought it could be the slide rail (89) initially, figured it could be pushing the chain off (the chain wants to go towards the back of the car) I even tried putting a spacer washer on the bolt that screws the slide rail to the block to improve the clearance, but it didn't help.

Bout the veg system: the heat exchanger (artic fox stainless coolant-fuel heat exchanger), heater fuel filter and looped fuel system add most of the heat - should be close to 160F at the IP. the inj line heaters just add extra heat and therfore reduce the viscocity of the fuel even more (according to the mfg, adding about 40 deg heat), draw less than 10 amps and from past experience make your fuel burn cleaner. Not everybody likes them, and they are a pain to install, but fattywagons, greasekings, & vegrev in CA and some other conversion companies and I've found they work well. Also, they are cheap and draw less amps than other types of electric heat. Should be focusing on getting the car running first, but I allready had all the conversion stuff and It was easiest to install everything together.

I am going to suggest that you put the cam sprocket on backwards... the other options just do not add up.

There is large freedom of movement in the idler gear.

your tensioning rail would have to be severely bent or incredibly worn with deep, deep grooves to derail the chain.

but if you put the sprocket on backwards.. it explains the jumps more precisely.

edit: the deeper recess of the sprocket goes towards the camshaft.

Solved the timing belt problem -
cam sprocket was backwards. Also replace the tensioner and re- timed the engine.

Then I tried to start it - it sounded good but wouldn't turn over . . . Then realized the IP was supposed to be timed to 24 deg - instead it was timed at zero. took out the oil filter and IP, gonna put it back together tomorrow night and try again.

Thanks for the advise, much appreciated

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/...fdd0e93fd7.jpg

engine in & it runs now that the pump is timed to 24 deg. veg oil system shown on left - Silicone tape around the vac line where it touches hot stuff (thermostat housing / valve cover)

Engine seems a little tilted to back, but transmission is jacked up as high as it can be - the getrag may be a bit higher than the A/T or w115 4 speed. Hope this won't be a problem, since I don't know how to fix it if it is.

wiring for A/T to MT (5 spd) conversion
 

I don't see any electronics on the Getrag MT. So the question is what to do with the wires? Neutral safety switch wires to Clutch switch? Brake switch? If so where is the clutch? Is it on the pedal assembly somewhere or is it floor mounted and one of those things I forgot to pull?

Also shift linkages in - all cut in the straight sections (shortened) and mig welded. Only the shortest linkage had to be bent slightly to clear the flex disk better

still havent connected my wires after putting in my 4 speed but i believe you need to connect the neutral safty wires to the shifter reverse switch button...but im unsure of witch order havent gotten around to tinkering with that..

No you don't want to do that. Just tape them off.

then what makes the reverse lights turn on when your in reverse without the neutral safety?