Hello,

I have begun my conversion project for my 1975 300D (w115). I found a rusty 1984 eurospec 240D that is serving as my doner car. I allready pulled all the transmission components from it. Any advise anyone has regarding installing shift linkage, pedals, hydraulic hoses for clutch, shifter in console, drive shaft legnth, etc will be appreciated.

Also, I will be parting out the rest of the 240D so if you need any parts let me know.



Auto Trans Blew in Virginia & had to tow it back to Upstate NY

The Doner Car - Euro-spec 1984 240D

link to my webpage on this conversion w/ larger pics:
http://www.brooklynrail.net/brians_other_transp_projects.html#Diesel_Engine_Rebuild_and_Auto

I heard a lot of feedback about match balancing. Since I was putting new seals, rings and bearings in my 300D motor, I decided to bring everything that could be unbalanced to be zero (neutral) balanced

Crank, flywheel, harmonic balancer, front crank pulley were brought to a machine shop where they were cleaned, measured for tolerances, and balanced (only the crank itself ended up being neutral balanced, everything else needed balancing).

It seems that the flywheel and front crank components may have been oddly (not neutral) balanced (but the crank itself was neutral balanced) - has anyone else found this to be the case on other 300Ds?

above: balanced / cleaned components - note the shiny new drill holes on the 240D manual flywheel, harmonic balancer and front crank pulley.

All you needed to balance was the flywheel.

When you get it all together I would love to see some performance numbers.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

Hey guy keep up the good work with this nice thread !
I believe some member made a good thread oulining such a conversion but for a W123 chassis.

Do an archive search and you may find it.
Fairly detailed and mentioned many tips.

You may need to adjust the linkages based on my poor recollection of this or those thread(s).

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Engine back together and mated with getrag 5 spd

Shifter Installed and Auto 300D Driveshaft lengthened 3in

The shifter rods will need to be shortened, probably.

Nice looking car. Is it that soft pumpkin pie color?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Did someone say the 280 and 240 had different housings? That is incorrect.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Following this. Would that transmission work with a 71 220?

thanks for the diagram I'll check to see if there is play in the guide sprocket, if so that could be the problem. The chain was on the guide sprocket even when halfway off the cam sprocket, and the teeth seem ok, but If it has play or a worn bearing that could be the problem. That would make sense if that was where the problem was. I thought it could be the slide rail (89) initially, figured it could be pushing the chain off (the chain wants to go towards the back of the car) I even tried putting a spacer washer on the bolt that screws the slide rail to the block to improve the clearance, but it didn't help.

Bout the veg system: the heat exchanger (artic fox stainless coolant-fuel heat exchanger), heater fuel filter and looped fuel system add most of the heat - should be close to 160F at the IP. the inj line heaters just add extra heat and therfore reduce the viscocity of the fuel even more (according to the mfg, adding about 40 deg heat), draw less than 10 amps and from past experience make your fuel burn cleaner. Not everybody likes them, and they are a pain to install, but fattywagons, greasekings, & vegrev in CA and some other conversion companies and I've found they work well. Also, they are cheap and draw less amps than other types of electric heat. Should be focusing on getting the car running first, but I allready had all the conversion stuff and It was easiest to install everything together.

I am going to suggest that you put the cam sprocket on backwards... the other options just do not add up.

There is large freedom of movement in the idler gear.

your tensioning rail would have to be severely bent or incredibly worn with deep, deep grooves to derail the chain.

but if you put the sprocket on backwards.. it explains the jumps more precisely.

edit: the deeper recess of the sprocket goes towards the camshaft.

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Solved the timing belt problem -
cam sprocket was backwards. Also replace the tensioner and re- timed the engine.

Then I tried to start it - it sounded good but wouldn't turn over . . . Then realized the IP was supposed to be timed to 24 deg - instead it was timed at zero. took out the oil filter and IP, gonna put it back together tomorrow night and try again.

Thanks for the advise, much appreciated

Bite the bullet and do it. Nothing more shameful than leaving puddles where you park...

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1987 VW Jetta Mk II - Daily Driver
1992 W201 2.3 - sold
1985 W126 380se - sold
1985 W123 OM617.952 - sold
1981 W123 OM617.912 - sold
1986 W201 2.3 - sold
1979 W123 OM 617.912 - sold