It's not a mercedes but it's a diesel - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Actros617 · #1 04-01-2009, 11:50 AM

So we are going to take a look at A volvo 240d with d24 my question is what should I look for, r these engine reliable, easy to repair...

moon161 · #2 04-01-2009, 12:26 PM

I hear it's a VW engine, don't know any more.

wikipedia sez:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_D24_engine

Diesel911 · #3 04-01-2009, 02:04 PM

There is some Volvo Diesel information at Swedishbricks on the internet. And, it is a VW Engine shareing alot of the parts in common with VW Rabbits.

I own an 82 244GL Volvo Diesel D24 non-turbo and a Manual Transmission with Overdrive (bought in 92).
When I bought the Car 148,000 miles was showig on the odometer (I do not know if this was the origional miles or not).
Everthing was fine when I test drove the car. After the car sat overnight I found that at idle there was a bunch of hazy gray smoke until the car was warmed up; and it takes longer to warm up than a Mercedes does.
I ended up rebuilding the short block. So, either the Engine really wore out (upper cylinder wear. too much taper) at 148,000 or the 148,000 was not the truth. Bearings and Crank were OK but I replaced the Bearings any way.
Since the partial rebuild I have replaced very few Glow Plugs, a U-Joint, 1 rear Axle Bearing, 2 Clutches and Throwout Bearings (the clutch is a weak area), Clutch Cable, Timing belts Camshaft and IP, Rebuilt the Injectors a couple of times (Spray Nozzles were $11 each bought locally).
After owining it for about 1 years I replaced the Alternator with a Delco one as it was always wearing out 1 of the brushes; not a Bosch but ans SVI alternator.
What turned into a major problem was that the IP Drive Shaft Seal leaked. It sat for a year until I got around to replacing it (I took the IP apart and had some problems with it and had to take it apart again).
A few months ago replaced the Rubber Bearing thing that goes on top of the struts.
The SwedishBrick site tells you the Valves should be adjusted every 5,000 miles. I have driven mine way longer than that without adjusting the Valves. It is a OHC Engine and you have to change the Plates on top of the Tappets to adjust the clearances.

I found it difficult to remove the plates with the Camshaft still there; the Oil sticks them down really well (there are 2 tools for this). I adjusted the Valves at time of rebuild and when I removed the IP at the same time changeing the timing Belts and stuff just removed the Camshaft to yank off the plates.

The Volvo is a more conventional Car as far as Suspension, Steering and the Rrear end setup. That makes it easier to work on.
Since a lot of them were sold all the rest of the non-Diesel parts are easy to get.
Since 1992 I have seen only 1 Volvo Diesel at the Junk Yard. If you need used Diesel parts in my area you are not going to find them.

The interor is a poorer quality than the Mercedes and the insulation on some of my wiring has crumbled. It is not a solid of a Car being lighter weight. The paint is awful and flaking off.

All of the above being said; I like the Car as my daily driver for all of those years, it is easier to work on than the Mercedes, after the rebuild I have had to fix way less in all of those years than I have on the Mercedes.

When I was looking for another Diesel Car with an Automatic Transmission I wanted to get another Volvo. But, out here in CA there are scarce.
I ended up buying the Mercedes.

I of course have replaced normal maint stuff.
Also the rebuild cost (around $1,000 including reboring) about was only made possible due to the use of made in Brazil VW Rabbit pistons at $48 each (in 1992). Volvo wanted $240 each for the origional pistons.

Biodiesel300TD · #4 04-01-2009, 03:30 PM

When I was first looking for a diesel. I looked at a Volvo. I called a Volvo mechanic and they told me to run away from it, not walk, run. They do have a VW diesel engine. It has an aluminum head, which is prone to warping when overheated, just like the VW's. From what I hear they only last around 150k. The timing belt is on the backside(firewall side) of the engine, which looks like a real PITA to change.

kerry · #5 04-01-2009, 03:55 PM

Some of the Volvo diesels had problems with oil delivery to part of the camshaft. Don't know if the one in question is that kind or not.

neptune · #6 04-01-2009, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Actros617

So we are going to take a look at A volvo 240 with d24 my question is what should I look for, r these engine reliable, easy to repair...

As has been said, the Volvo Diesel is essentially a Volvo body with a VW I6 diesel (the D24, also used in some VW light trucks) backed with a Volvo transmission (M46 manual if you're lucky). The engine has a bad reputation among Volvo mechanics, but most of that is due to the stellar reliability of the Volvo B21/23/230 series gas engines, those tend to last as long as the OM61x engines do. I've seen several D24 engined Volvo 240's with upwards of 400-600k on them, but without good maintenance they don't tend to last past 200k. Heads warp when overheated badly, timing belts are not always changed or get oil-soaked. I hear a lot about head gaskets needing to be done too. Most of the time its cheaper to swap in a gas engine from a wrecked 240 than to do the first major service that crops up, and the diesel really doesn't get much better mileage than a gas 240 does.
What year and transmission? Some years the Diesel was a DL (manual windows, etc) and some it was a GL (more options, fancy metallic paint that will be flaking off). For a few years there the Diesels were nearly top of the line, but lots of more utilitarian models were made, both as sedans and wagons.
Parts for the Volvo will be somewhat cheaper in general than Mercedes parts, and readily available. Engine parts are available from some Volvo places and most VW places. So many Volvo 240s were made that even in oklahoma you should be able to find them at the junkyards. Lots of upgrades from the later models are easy to swap on, as well as uprated suspension from a Turbo or GT.
Though the D24 wasn't turbocharged in a 240, it isn't hard to use parts from a 740/760 Turbodiesel to turbo a D24, and if you're really ambitious getting the parts to make a D24tic (intercooled) from Europe is possible. They can put out big power if that is your goal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Some of the Volvo diesels had problems with oil delivery to part of the camshaft. Don't know if the one in question is that kind or not.

I think you're thinking of the Volvo V6 (the early PRV6), not the VW diesel. I've never heard of oiling problems on the D24, but then I haven't had to mess with too many of them.

compu_85 · #7 04-01-2009, 04:14 PM

The overheating on these is caused by an undersized water pump, and undersized oil pump (they're the same as the standard 1.6 diesel, which is a very reliable engine)

If you can get one that's still got good compression a switch to synth oil and a refresh of the cooling system will keep it going for a long time. But beware of one that's already tired. You can get oversize pistons, etc, they're just a little expensive.

-Jason

Diesel911 · #8 04-01-2009, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

The overheating on these is caused by an undersized water pump, and undersized oil pump (they're the same as the standard 1.6 diesel, which is a very reliable engine)

If you can get one that's still got good compression a switch to synth oil and a refresh of the cooling system will keep it going for a long time. But beware of one that's already tired. You can get oversize pistons, etc, they're just a little expensive.

-Jason

I have never had any overheating problems with mine; infact it is slow to reach operating temp.
If you overheat any Engine with an Aluminum head it is likely to warp more than an iron one.

Actros617 · #9 04-01-2009, 04:27 PM

Wow, the engines only lasts 150K miles

so from what i am hearing that is to run away from a volvo diesel because if its poorly constructed engine... What's the gas mileage on these Volvo's

79Mercy · #10 04-01-2009, 04:53 PM

There is a reason why when you go to the JY your searching through tons of Volvos to find the MB's.

TylerH860 · #11 04-01-2009, 04:59 PM

From what I've noticed, it seems the 240 gassers hold up better than the diesels.

Txdriven · #12 04-01-2009, 05:02 PM

I've owned one- a super early 1980 w/ a stick. Made it to 193k before the head gasket started to go. On the plus side-- 30+mpg plus at 70+mph, SMOOOTH, and it sounded cool when the exhaust system fell apart (which was a frequent occurrence) On the downside, D24-specific parts are pricey and hard to find (1.6l VW parts are plentiful if you can substitute!), and they rarely make it past 200k w/o a rebuild (oiling issues mostly, or head bolts fail on the early ones like mine)

I got mine for free, but I'd run away if I had to pay more than $500 for one.

Oh yeah-- there are 2 timing belts on it -- the one on the front is for the cam/water pump, the back one is for the IP.

Actros617 · #13 04-01-2009, 10:20 PM

Here is the craiglist site..http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/1103073935.html and what do you think...It looks like its an 1983 insted of a 1988... Do you think that a 190D 2.2 is any better??? My brother is looking for something that gives good gas mileage, he job is about 40 miles round trip and his E320 is not a good car when its comes to efficency ($30 per week)

neptune · #14 04-01-2009, 11:03 PM

I'd go with the 190D hands down. Its a much better diesel.
That's an 83-85 244GL Diesel, and its pretty beat. I wouldn't pay half that for it unless the motor was perfect.

TylerH860 · #15 04-01-2009, 11:24 PM

There's nothing wrong with what he has if he keeps his foot out of it. Perhaps there's something wrong with the car? They get low to mid 20s highway, so buying a car that gets 10 more MPG won't save him that much.

I think you guys are looking for an excuse.