I'm pretty sure I hosed the M/C when I had to drive it without fully bleeding it. Can someone point me to a procedure so I don't totally screw up again? Here's the quick story...

First my car. 84 300SD bought 6 months ago with 90 KMiles, garaged CA car so no rust issues. Had maybe 2-3 KMiles per year the 5-6 years. So it needed some regular running and maintenance to bring back to full working condition. Had the ball joints and front rotors/pads done at a highly recommended local mechanic. Turned out I also needed calipers since the old ones wouldn't release completely. That job wasn't done as this is something I knew I could do myself.

When I was discussing my brakes with the mechanic, he suggested I blow out the brake lines with brake fluid before bleeding the brakes, which I did. Yesterday I replaced brake hoses all around and front calipers at the Auto Hobby Shop on the Navy base I work at (I'm a DOD Civilian and we get to use it too!) Unfortunately, I took the mechanic's advice one step further and emptied the M/C, wiped it out, blew out the old fluid, etc. That was my big mistake. I ran out of time (go figger) before I could bleed the system. Managed to get enough fluid (power bleeder) in the lines to get me to my brothers house a few miles away. (The emergency brake is your friend!) But getting there, I had fully depressed the brakes, potentially damaging the seals. Once there, we tried bleeding brakes with power bleeder, and got lots of air out of lines, but some strange results. Front passenger brake had three huge bubbles in it, and this may be related to not bleeding M/C. But all other brakes bled fine - the usual bubbles, but eventually clearing out. Driving home the problem only seemed to get worse.

So now I figure I have to replace M/C. From reading here I now know I need to bench bleed the M/C (this is a great forum - give yourselves a hand ... ) but I only have this weekend to do it before I leave on a big trip. I plan to order an ATE M/C and the reservoir seals. Is there anything else I'd really need to order just to be safe? Can someone point me to the M/C bench bleed procedure? Is the r&r simply unbolt from booster then assemble in reverse order? Or is it more complicated than that? I'm a fairly competent mechanic, but I'm an engineer too, and I just overthought (underthought?) this one.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)