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#1
01-14-2009, 11:58 AM
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gunked up fuel tank. HELP!!
I'm having trouble with a '77 300D. It's getting air in the fuel lines. First I replaced all the lines, then I replaced the manual primer pump. Then I figured it was the tank strainer, so I replaced it. Still having trouble. I have tried clearing the lines by blowing air through them back to the tank. It seems to work, but only for a couple of miles of driving. I took out the tank and sprayed some degreaser in it, but it still seemed pretty nasty in there and the car has the same symptoms. I still think it"s the fuel tank, because it doesn't seem to vent right and the return line is clogging up. It unclogs if I use a bike pump or compressor and shoot air through it, but then clogs right back up after running for a couple of minutes. I've been working on it so much that i'm really getting frustrated and going broke. My question is. Should I just buy a boat Fuel Tank and put it in the trunk, is there an additive that will absolutely work, or is this a rare enough occurence that I should just take my chances on a replacement tank at a junk yard? I really need a one time fix and to be as cheap as possible. I want to keep the car, but my girlfriend is flipping out about the time and money I'm spending. I'm assuming a new tank is pretty expensive and i'm trying to do this on the cheap. Please help!
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#2
01-14-2009, 12:50 PM
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Maybe try running some Red Lead additive through the tank.
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#3
01-14-2009, 12:51 PM
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you should try to determine what the 'gunk' is.
Did some caring owner dump vegetable oil in the tank before you? Or does it look like a black sludge? - this may be organic growth which is treatable with chemicals.
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#6
01-16-2009, 12:30 PM
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Could have had vegetable oil in it. I tried biobor. didn't seem to do much. The filters are new. I just went to home depot and bought some hose and hooked up a small tank from a boat in the trunk. the car seems to run fine now. there still seem to be small air bubbles in some of the lines. Is it normal that it should take a while to evacuate all the air through the secondary filter and all the lines or is it more likey that i have a leak? I've only driven the car a few blocks.
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#7
01-16-2009, 12:34 PM
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Why is this in bodywork, should be in diesel dicussion. Anyone know how to move it?
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#8
03-10-2009, 07:50 PM
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Moved.
__________________
___________________________________________ 2010 Toyota matrix '93 500 SEL Well, I sold it. Just got to be too much to keep up with. First time I haven't owned a MB since 1983. '12 Volvo S80 T6 Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction '18 Mazda Miata No more boring cars for everyday transport!
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#9
03-10-2009, 08:07 PM
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/247019-%2460-diesel-fuel-filter-10micron-glass-bowl-assembly.html#post2133673
Check out the reply I posted. I had the same problem after running diesel/WVO mix for a while. WVO etched up all the crap from the tank and if you pump diesel in then it makes the situation worse as the diesel stirs up all kind of s**t. When it happens, the small filter clogs up in less than 5 miles. After I put in the filter ( it is washable BTW ), I do not have any issues anymore. The gunk get trapped and just settle to the bottom and can be drained out. Running another tank is not the answer, it is too expensive and unnecessary.
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.  W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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#10
03-10-2009, 08:10 PM
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Air in Lines
Which lines seem to have air in them...?
It is normal to see an air bubble in the clear pre-filter.... Did you replace all the rubber or plastic lines associated with the Lift pump, IP and filter setup...?
__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad) 1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad) 1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad) (Open the pod bay doors HAL)
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#11
03-10-2009, 08:37 PM
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If its gotten that bad you might consider draining and removing the tank and getting it cleaned. A big hassle up front but the only sure way to avoid intermittant clogging issues for a long long time.
Oh, I see, you did take it out. Oh well, never mind.
__________________
1983 CD 1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated) Last edited by pselaphid; 03-10-2009 at 08:38 PM. Reason: reread original post
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#12
04-13-2009, 08:59 AM
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Could be condensation hence corrosion hence flakes of tank-lining block lines. Had that after my car sat with empty tank for some years. INFURIATING! Replaced the tank - perfect. Ditto when I bought an old VW Combi...
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#13
04-13-2009, 09:53 AM
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If you pulled the tank and degreased it and still had "gunk" then you need to pull it again and really clean it. Steam clean it, add biodiesel and let it soak, fill with hot water and some h2o soluble degreaser, etc. Whatever method you choose make sure to look inside an be sure everything has been cleaned out.
A bit of a pita but worth it for piece of mind If it is rust then a POR15 treatment is in order. Good luck
__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD 2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily
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