I just had my 240D head redone by Metric, and they also did all of the machine work on the block. I am extremely pleased with the work and the fact that they do not scrimp on quality. The prices also were good, most of it being parts that they gave me wholesale prices on (as good as youcan get on the internet). I particularly appreciated the fact that Mike (at Metric) was totally up front about the cost, and did not change as the work progressed. The engine is now in the break-in phase and is working as it should. So, you may be able to get something else cheaper, but these guys have a good reputation that they lived up to for me.

ill need to locate a good machineshop in CT that check out the 2 crankshafts i pulled, since i dont have all the tools needed to check the cranks out. I was able to mic them with a micrometer. The turbo crankshaft i removed can be reused but one of the journals has damage from when a bearing spun. the non turbo crank seems to be good.

If the crankshaft is not rehardened correctly it will break when the car is started so I need to find someone who wont screw up.

Anyone know the typical thickness of the hardened portion? I'm assuming that a typical regrind does not compromise the hardened layer, but something more serious like repairing deep gouges would. Also, do machine shops typically use induction hardening?

Tuftriding and Nitriding is only a thou or so deep....

Both are very tough surfaces but need to be re-finished when a crank is re-ground, as typically you'll be removing 10 or 20 thou....

Have the crank ground by a GOOD place, then send it for Nitriding--Like the rally boys do....:D

Thou hast spoken like a true machinist.

I have taken measurements of the lower block parts and seeing what the lower block will need and so far it will the following:

cylinder sleeves
connecting rods(actually one on the piston that spun a rod bearing)
bearings
seals
gaskets
machine work
timing chain+tool
piston rings
pistons(maybe)

When I measured the pistons they were somewhat oval, but i might be able to reuse them.

Depending on how much it will cost in terms of parts+machine work ill might buy a lower block from metric motors.

Piston Question
 

I have taken apart 2 engines, one turbo from an 83 and 81 300D.

the 83 will need these items for sure:
piston rings
cylinder sleeves
connecting rods
Set of main and connecting rod bearings
gasket set
crank needs to be machined due to spun bearing
timing chain+tool

81 will need for sure:
sleeves
Main+connecting rod bearings
gasket set
timing chain+tool

My question is the pistons I pulled. measured, weighed from the 81 are different sizes from what size pistons I can buy. Also the piston sizes dont seem to coordinate to whats stamped into the casting. the clyinder bores marked with 1 had pistons that were 90.885 mm in them and the manual calls for 90.89mm pistons.

The new pistons that I can buy dont look like anything i pulled from the 81 lower block. they look exactly like the pistons from the turbo that took apart. Did they update the piston design or you simply cant get the pistons that I orginally pulled anymore?

Remember depending on where you live their may be excellent used engines around. It is common to find a very rusty older model car up here with low total real miles. You have to work and ask around to locate them.

I already have too many used engines in my shop, 3 used engines. 2 non turbos that need rebuilding and turbo that needs rebuilding. So picking up another engine isnt what im after, i need to start getting rid of some them.

2 are apart and the other is on a engine dolly with a tranny from a parts that I parted out. I know I can get a good engine for under a$1000 but dont have the room.

looks like I have no choice to the standard 90.90mm pistons even though the disc says that you need different diameter pistons according the number stamped on casting. oh well

The difference between the 90.90 and the 89.885 you measured is 0.0006" Not enough to worry about. I think they officially stopped requiring (and supporting) graded pistons. I don't know about the design differences, however.

Im not to worried about the length so much even though they dont match what the FSM calls for group 1 +2 pistons. The design of the non turbo and turbo pistons are different in terms of lubrication,ie location and number of oil holes. Ill remeasure them to make sure I got the right measurements and if I can reuse them I will.

At this point it looks Ill rebuild the non turbo engine since for around $2000 dollars ill have a good solid engine as opposed to the turbo thats apart that will need over $3000 grand to be solid agian. The turbo needs a reground crank for $700 since the journal for the first connecting rod spuin a bearing and took off 40thousandths off the journal.