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  #16  
Old 06-21-2009, 04:26 AM
Down South GA Boy
 
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Well - I have found the MB diesel "easter egg" this thread has the gear ratios

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  #17  
Old 06-21-2009, 05:00 AM
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2 doors, 5 cylinders
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thecorrupterx View Post
Well - I have found the MB diesel "easter egg" this thread has the gear ratios

Ahhhhhh you da man! Thanks!
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  #18  
Old 06-21-2009, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
No way a non-running, driving car should be $900...
X2.....
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Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
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  #19  
Old 06-21-2009, 02:48 PM
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There is nothing as expensive as a cheap Mercedes

Sounds like a lot of neglect. Do you feel lucky because luck is what it is going to take to get this car going, that and lots of cash and work. Just my gut feeling. Cheers Dan
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  #20  
Old 06-21-2009, 08:47 PM
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Park pawl did not engage with the drivetrain not intact. If the body is good and interior pretty good it might be worth getting.

Spare coupe interiors may be a little scarce. Certainly far scarcer than four doors. I cannot otherwise suggest any course of action unless I had examined the car.

As you mention financial considerations will always color a deal to some extent. Try the poor student approach if the selling individual does not appear totally strapped himself.
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  #21  
Old 06-22-2009, 12:12 AM
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2 doors, 5 cylinders
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
Park pawl did not engage with the drivetrain not intact. If the body is good and interior pretty good it might be worth getting.

Spare coupe interiors may be a little scarce. Certainly far scarcer than four doors. I cannot otherwise suggest any course of action unless I had examined the car.

As you mention financial considerations will always color a deal to some extent. Try the poor student approach if the selling individual does not appear totally strapped himself.

I haven't tried to negotiate with him yet, Im still forensically going over the car to find leverage. So far the air filter being sabotaged is pretty good, I just want something more.

What he doesn't know is that it only needs fuel and a differential to run. The only thing I will need to keep an eye on is the top end from the engine sucking in unfiltered air. I picked up a compression tester from harbor freight today so im going to check that out before I make the decision as well.

I figure if I can get him down to $500 I'll take it.

I do plan to not part out the 240D and keep it as a spare if the engine decides to go south on the 300CD. If I get it, I'll be watching oil consumption, oil pressure, blowby, and compression like a hawk in that 300CD - Is that enough to monitor the engine if it needs a valve job or rebuild?
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  #22  
Old 06-22-2009, 01:09 AM
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youre 18, use good hustle and youll get there
buy the car and youll find nice used 300td eng+ tranny just be patient
condition is key people
and yes ive seen that car(pics) does worth all $900 owner is asking
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  #23  
Old 06-22-2009, 10:42 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickofoxford View Post

I figure if I can get him down to $500 I'll take it.
A 300CD for $500 with a nearby junkyard is a dream. Especially when you are 18 and have nothing better todo.
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  #24  
Old 06-23-2009, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
A 300CD for $500 with a nearby junkyard is a dream. Especially when you are 18 and have nothing better todo.
Couldn't have said it better
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  #25  
Old 06-23-2009, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
A 300CD for $500 with a nearby junkyard is a dream. Especially when you are 18 and have nothing better todo.
Heck, a 300CD in great shape (EXCEPT needing either a rear end OR tranny) for $900 and a nearby junkyard is a dream to me - I paid $4800 for mine.

Worst case scenario, even a replacement engine AND tranny isn't that hard to come by or that expensive.

I say if the compression checks out, offer him $400 and go up from there, but BUY THAT CAR. Even if you had to pay the full $900 for a clean body, interior, and decent engine, it would be worth swapping in a boneyard tranny that cost you another couple of hundred.

Even if I had to buy a junkyard engine AND tranny for $500 it would be worth it to me. But then I really LOVE the coupes, and they go for a serious premium in my neck of the woods. For example; there are 3 NA 300CDs on Craigslist in my area right now. Two are runners - a 78 for $4995, a 79 for $4000. If either of them were turbos you could add $1000-$2000 to those prices. The 3rd one is a 78 with "good paint, interior OK" and a blown motor for $950 - that one would probably be $500 more if it were a turbo - even though it doesn't run...
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Last edited by rcounts; 06-23-2009 at 02:01 AM.
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  #26  
Old 06-23-2009, 09:46 AM
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If the body is nice, No way would I walk away from it.

Nice coupes are getting hard to find. I would second the
notion that the rear is the problem, not the tranny.

A diff. is not that hard to install, even for a young rookie.

Again, start the car, put it in gear, and physiclly check to
see if the drive shaft it turning. I would put money on it
that the answer is yes.

I was one of those that bought a car with a "bad" trans.
After bolting a CV joint back together, I was driving it.

I turned a $600 car into $3500 3 months later.

Where in PA are you?
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  #27  
Old 06-23-2009, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickofoxford View Post
UPDATE:


The bad:
Another thing was the oil return line (I think that's what it is) that goes from the oil separator in the air cleaner to wherever it goes was completely loose, what does it do, where does it go?
Despite what I am about to say I agree with the others who say to jump on this car at $400-$500.

This loose oil line is most likely an oil cooler hose. There are two that run from the oil cooler next to the radiator and run back to the oil filter housing. If it is loose this engine may be shot. The rupture of these hoses is an early death for the turbo diesel engine.

Be prepared to put time and money into this car, but I'm sure it will be completely worth it.
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  #28  
Old 06-23-2009, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtwangler View Post
Despite what I am about to say I agree with the others who say to jump on this car at $400-$500.

This loose oil line is most likely an oil cooler hose. There are two that run from the oil cooler next to the radiator and run back to the oil filter housing. If it is loose this engine may be shot. The rupture of these hoses is an early death for the turbo diesel engine.

Be prepared to put time and money into this car, but I'm sure it will be completely worth it.
Based on his description (return line that goes from the oil separator in the air cleaner to wherever it goes [it goes to a hole in the horizontal surface of the upper oil pan, BTW]) I'd have to disagree.

He's describing the turbo drain line, not one of the oil cooler lines. Those are located on the opposite side of the engine running from the filter housing (rear of the ending on the driver's side) to the cooler (beside the radiator) and back...

But you are correct that a ruptured oil cooler line is an early death for a turbo motor. From what I've read if one blows at freeway speed the bearings - and therefore the crank and rod assembly - in other words the whole motor - are reduced junk before you can pull over and shut it off.
__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #29  
Old 06-23-2009, 05:15 PM
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I stand corrected. I didn't read the post far enough, just became prematurely afraid for our friend.

Thanks for calming my fears for him.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
Based on his description (return line that goes from the oil separator in the air cleaner to wherever it goes [it goes to a hole in the horizontal surface of the upper oil pan, BTW]) I'd have to disagree.

He's describing the turbo drain line, not one of the oil cooler lines. Those are located on the opposite side of the engine running from the filter housing (rear of the ending on the driver's side) to the cooler (beside the radiator) and back...

But you are correct that a ruptured oil cooler line is an early death for a turbo motor. From what I've read if one blows at freeway speed the bearings - and therefore the crank and rod assembly - in other words the whole motor - are reduced junk before you can pull over and shut it off.
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  #30  
Old 06-27-2009, 06:13 PM
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2 doors, 5 cylinders
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtwangler View Post
I stand corrected. I didn't read the post far enough, just became prematurely afraid for our friend.

Thanks for calming my fears for him.

He was right, it's the oil drain tube. It's OK though because you reminded me than when I get it home the oil cooler lines will be replaced no questions asked. I have seen the posts of the instant death of the poor turbodiesel from those going.. Since the engine is covered in oil from the blowby tube being loose, and the dangling oil separator return line, anything rubber will be questionable and replaced.

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