82 300D Mercedes Trunk tumbler will not turn, looking for solutions

[sfvegcar]

When you insert the key and try to turn it, it won't move and you can hear the sound of metal hitting metal "click, click" when you attempt to turn.

1. Drill it out?
2. Anyone selling a new trunk lock for this?
3. Exactly how and where would I release it if I were to go through med kit hatch? I have thoroughly read every post, including McGyver approach, on this issue but this is still not clear to me.

4. There is no emergency trunk release on this car. I've checked.

Any ideas?

Thanks so much.

[compress ignite]

Does this model have a Vacuum locking mechanism on the trunk lock?
(One of the W123 guy's can chip in HERE)
If so you might be able to put suction on the plastic hard line somewhere(?)
inside the passenger compartment????

[JWJ]

My '83 300D doesn't use vacuum for the trunk at all. The fuel lid lock uses vacuum, but the trunk lid only uses the trumbler lock.

[bkeese]

Have you tried some WD40 in the lock? You might just have some sticky pins in your tumbler. Just spray a little in, then move your key rapidly in and out for a few seconds. Could be the easiest fix yet...

[daw_two]

Hey Everyone.

I just resolved a LOCK issue on my w126 and I seriously doubt anyone is going to believe it. Here's the story (all adventures have a story!).

One day last week went to the car to go to lunch and it took me about 2 minutes to get the master key (with red dot) into the driver's door lock. Once I got the key in all the way, the lock was fairly easy to turn. It was an extremely hot day and the driver's door was in the sun, so, I thought maybe the heat had something to do with it.

I found this car on Super Bowl Sunday sitting in a guy's backyard and the PASSENGER side lock has NEVER worked --- can't get the key all the way in the lock. The paint has some interesting clearcoat coming off patterns in it......like maybe at one time the rear of the car stuck out from a carport and decaying leaf "acid" dripped on it. I'm thinking the non operative PASSENGER side lock could be the result of that side of the car being exposed to the elements. I'm also thinking the car was leaning downhill on the driver's side because of the 2 small rust spots I found on the driver's side doors at the bottom of the door --- water not draining all the way out and car sitting?

Back to the lock and tumbler issue.

So, Monday, I run up to the hardware store to ask the experts. On the door, it states, the hardware store now has a locksmith. So I ask to speak to the locksmith. I'm escorted to the rear of the store thru some winding passages.....this store is NEAT....and find a guy sitting at an old oak desk with a plastic box OPEN with lots of little compartments in it. Must be 64 compartments in this box. Each compartment holds different lenght and diameter pins. WOW!!!!

I explain my lock issues. He grabs a can and I immediately ask what it is.....he says it is a dry type of lubricate that sprays on and leaves no residue like graphite; explains this is MUCH better than graphite.

When we get to the car, I suggest we look at the passenger side first. He didn't have any luck. Then we look at the trunk which has been fine. Of course, I have to explain that you don't push in when trying to turn the key. Then to the driver's door. After a couple of sprays and only getting the key in half way......he looks at my key. The original master key with the red dot. He says, "daw, I think the issue is your key. The tip of your key is worn and it's not wanting to push (separate) the pins back far enough to let the key slide into the lock." He makes a call to a co-hart at the other store. When he gets off the call, he says I have to go to the dealer for a replacement key.

Tuesday morning, I go to the dealer......$16.50 for a replacement master key, $20 for a replacement valet key, $103.20 for a replacement ignition cylinder that comes with a a master key. I out for the replacement ignition and a second master key. While there, I get my first mileage award application completed, but they don't know what to do with it.....so I bring it home to make a copy and mail. Should be there on Thursday at 11am when FedEx run is made; they will call me.

Yesterday afternoon at 4:45pm, I call the dealer. Everything is there and they close at 5:30 --- I zip over there and get the items.

I walk out to the car, open up the spare master key and slide it into the PASSENGER lock. It goes all the way in. I lock the doors from the PASSENGER side. Then I try the trunk. It works. Then the DRIVER's door. It works.

Viola!! New key resolved my tumbler issues in my door locks. Now, once I replace my ignition switch, Coda should be set for another 22 years or 198,000 miles --- whichever comes first.

[ImBroke]

If the spray lubricants don't work, drill it out and replace it. I did a write up on how to repin it for your key in the Tech section.
JWJ what happened to your vac for the trunk lock? It should be back there.

[mobetta]

should be the yellow/ green line going back from under the carpet on the pass. side rear floor. mity-vac it. I had to do this on a friends car.

[funola]

Hey IMBroke, I searched the DIY section but could not find your write up on how to repin a tumbler. Can you post the link? Thx

Originally Posted by ImBroke

If the spray lubricants don't work, drill it out and replace it. I did a write up on how to repin it for your key in the Tech section.
JWJ what happened to your vac for the trunk lock? It should be back there.

[ImBroke]

Here ya go.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/214650-w123-trunk-lock-question.html#post1800504

[3lpuller]

the ignition key in my '82 w123 (240d) failed to work. i took dieselgiant.com advice (thank you!!!) on grinding down the pin potruding into the steering column. regardless the key still did not work! i bypassed the system by removing the vacuum lines and plugging them before starting...
glowplugs don't work but a squirt of WD40 does it everytime... I just short connectors on starter ad it comes right up
and unplugging the vacuum lines to kill the car!

my question is will continued use in this state cause any damage to the electrical sys or otherwise???

thank you for any input!
john

[moon161]

Originally Posted by 3lpuller

the ignition key in my '82 w123 (240d) failed to work. i took dieselgiant.com advice (thank you!!!) on grinding down the pin potruding into the steering column. regardless the key still did not work! i bypassed the system by removing the vacuum lines and plugging them before starting...
glowplugs don't work but a squirt of WD40 does it everytime... I just short connectors on starter ad it comes right up
and unplugging the vacuum lines to kill the car!

my question is will continued use in this state cause any damage to the electrical sys or otherwise???

thank you for any input!
john

+ Ghetto antitheft system (redundant a 240D is an antitheft system already)
- Inconvenient till it's cold
- Much less convenient when it's cold
- Opinions vary, but rings may not last until it's cold.
- Mark my words, this method will fail when you need it not to -when you absolutely have to go to the hospital, a job interview, to the grocery store for boone's farm wine and condoms.

[3lpuller]

+ Ghetto antitheft system (redundant a 240D is an antitheft system already)

yup 2 tonne ride with 60some horsepower, who other than a tweeker would
want to go for a joyride in that?!?!?!?

- Inconvenient till it's cold
- Much less convenient when it's cold
- Opinions vary, but rings may not last until it's cold.
- Mark my words, this method will fail when you need it not to -when you absolutely have to go to the hospital, a job interview, to the grocery store for boone's farm wine and condoms.

dont like hospitals, dont like jobs either, have yet to try boone*s (any good?)
condoms, what is that?

my concern is with the ignition switch not turned to
notch #2 but the engine running and the alternator charging that way
is it possible for the electical system to incurr damage ?

thank you!

[snookwhaler]

I was glancing through my 85's owners manual the other day. I was looking for something (cant remember now). However, I do remember reading about a emergency release cable for the trunk being under the rear seat in the car. According to the manual, you have to pull out the rear seat to access the release. I have not pulled out the rear seat to have a look yet. But, it is in the owners manual.