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  #1  
Old 07-03-2009, 06:14 PM
Outofworkjoe's Avatar
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Question Rear Axel replacement.

Were on this site I can find on how to replace my rear axel,for my 83 300d.

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  #2  
Old 07-03-2009, 06:27 PM
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Top of page:

Resources
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DIY Articles
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W123 Rear Axle Replacement
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I-------------------------------------1981 300TD, Thistle Green, 140K------------------------------------I
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  #3  
Old 07-03-2009, 06:58 PM
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That is a good article! That pretty much covers all of it.
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1985 300D (SOLD)

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  #4  
Old 07-03-2009, 07:38 PM
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outofworkjoe View Post
Were on this site I can find on how to replace my rear axel,for my 83 300d.
If you don't consider yourself an intermediate to advanced DIY'er I'd probably leave it to a shop.....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #5  
Old 07-03-2009, 07:40 PM
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I thought rear axle removal was simple and easy to do. Those C-clips were PITA though.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #6  
Old 07-03-2009, 08:19 PM
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It is fairly easy I agree, but that all depends on ones skill level. I actually found the C-clips to be easy. Pull them off with a pick, and put them back on with needle nose vice grips.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #7  
Old 07-03-2009, 08:23 PM
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Mine came off easy, but getting them back on was a pain.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #8  
Old 07-04-2009, 06:02 PM
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The C clips were a PITA for me too, but pulled them with a hook (be careful, mine went flying) and then got 'em back on with a pair of pliers, holding on with a death grip to the little tab on the clip.

Oh, and make sure to get the right spacer rings if you're switching between the diff with the bearing end caps and the diff without.

Good luck,

Corey
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'83 240D, 190kmi
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  #9  
Old 07-05-2009, 01:06 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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That is why I recommended the needle nose vice grips, they give the grip so you don't have to.....I got them at a local home improvement store for $9....Sears has them for like $13
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #10  
Old 07-05-2009, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
That is why I recommended the needle nose vice grips, they give the grip so you don't have to.....I got them at a local home improvement store for $9....Sears has them for like $13
Short ones or long ones? Or does it matter?
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1985 300D (SOLD)

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  #11  
Old 07-05-2009, 11:20 AM
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Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
This is the one I use/have: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100329

I clamp the little C-clip sideways, on the little tab with the hole in it.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #12  
Old 07-05-2009, 11:31 AM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Pull them off with a pick, and put them back on with needle nose vice grips.
X2.

I pull them and install them with the same tool. On the install, a light tap on the vice grip with a hammer drives the clip over the shaft and into the groove.
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  #13  
Old 07-05-2009, 11:40 AM
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I used AZ aftermarket axles on my 81 and to my dismay found that the original spacer shims at the inboard axle end did not fit the new axle gap.
I had to switch the left side spacer for the right axle and then surface ground the right spacer to fit the left axle gap.
It has so far been trouble free.
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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2009, 05:01 PM
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Posts: 19
New spacer shims are also very cheap in the case that you need thicker ones. And if you're swapping out a diff without the bearing end caps (newer models) to a diff from an older car with the end caps, you're going to need thicker spacers.
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'83 240D, 190kmi
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  #15  
Old 07-05-2009, 05:10 PM
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MB has different thickness spacers but the dealer I called had nothing thin enough for my situation

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily
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